To rewire or not?

[F10YRB12118]

In my quest to get my dear old 67 running well, I am struggling with the electrical system.

Try as I may and with a very beginners level of knowledge, I can not get my turn signal & brake lights to work.

Is it time to junk the whole thing and dive into a new replacement for my 39 year wiring loom?

Can any one provide some sage advice on criteria for deciding when to try and fix your old wiring or just junk the whole thing and replace it with a new loom from companies like Ron Francis and the like.

I would like to keep my old truck as original as possible.

Your ideas and guidance are appreciated

[rjewkes]

Original is ok but i'd rather know that i had new original looking wiring that wasn't threatening to melt the truck down.

[F10YRB12118]

I can see the advantages to rewiring the whole truck and not having to worry about a meltdown.

In fact in just the last two hours since my original post, I was driving down the road and the radio just went out. Fuse is fine, so it is something else that I have to try to trace out.

I feel that rewiring will cause less headache down the road in the long run.
However, in looking over the excellent Ron Francis product, they don't seem to have an original looking kit. Their kit for the 67 is the Express model.

Can anyone suggest a company that replicates the original FoMoCo wiring?

Thanks,

[rjewkes]

I have been told that painless has a correct style. also lmc truck www.lmc.com or was it www.lmctruck.com? also has a harness that looks original as far as i can tell. And as long as the fuse box is original or atleast looks that way 90% of your harness should be hidden inside the dash and underneath the truck too.

[FORDification]

It seems that 95% of the time when brake light and/or turn signal problems arise, the problem can be traced to a bad turn signal switch....just an FYI. The second most common problem is bad grounds.

[F10YRB12118]

1- Turn Signal Switch.
I didn't think about the turn signal switch, that might be my problem. In looking over the wiring schematics and it seems as if the hot for the signal and brakes go through that switch, right?

When I received the the truck the original was switch was missing and an after market "Grote" type that didn't work either was installed.

I salvaged one from the junk yard and installed it. I guess it doesn't work either. I just ordered a new one from Dennis Carpenter. I'll try that one.

2 - Bad Grounds.
I am about to start removing the harness from behind the dash and look it over for bad grounds, cuts and etc. Also, I'll try and figure out why my high speed original AM radio died today.

Does any one have any suggestions or ideas on removing the harness from under the dash without destroying it?

Does it make the job easier to remove the dash pad?

3 - Replacement harness
Ron Francis doesn't offer an original replacement, nor Painless. Is there a firm out there that does offer a complete original replacement harness?

Thank you all for your advise. Any help is appreciated.

[rjewkes]

Usauly it is the ground at the tai lights that goes bad first. Have you tried both flasher fuses? one is up behind/attached to the back of the Instr. cluster.

[Fake Name]

Dashpa removal won't help. The dash area is all steel, the pad is just bolted on top.

fn

[Dropped 68]

Typically unless someone has REALLY butchered the original wiring. It's usually easier to fix what you have. and I mean soldering and heat shrink tubing so on and so forth. No butt connectors, twist and tape etc. It also helps to have some knowledge of electrical systems. When it all boils down to it the wiring in these old trucks is pretty straight forward. And if you've got the patientce to make it all right, and a little help I say fix what you have.

[67highboy]

I say check the signal switch
Sounds like a likely suspect...

[gonzalo medina]

I also have reached the wiring phase of my project. My original wiring is perfect but like anything doesn't stay reliable forever. I really don't trust old wiring either. I will be using a painless weatherproof harness. Hopefully will never have to go back in there. I say if you have the opportunity to replace it with new, why not do it.... But thats just my:2cents: we only live once. It sounds like a good experience for anyone. DC current isn't to complicated anyways. GOOD LUCK

[F10YRB12118]

I wish this could be easier. I really appreciate all the help I've received from you all so far.

The funny thing about all this is that my wiring doesn't look that batchered up. Just the important parts don't work!?

I've checked the rear lights, cleaned and tested all sockets and made sure I had a good ground. They are fine. I also traced all wires back up to the connectors above the steering box. Removed, cleaned and checked every inch.

I'll check the flasher behind the Instrument Cluster. I have a new one in the box, not a junk yard one.

Here is something interesting that might shed some "light". After trying to connect everything and seeing if I could get my signals to work, I tried the Hazard lights. Get this, the front two marker lights flashed great, even the lights in the cluster worked great, but the rear was dark, nothing. Only the marker lights and back-up lights work behind the truck.

I'll replace the turn signal switch tonight, if the "boss" is ok with that. If that doesn't do it, then it is behind the dash, somewhere! I still have to figure out what killed the radio yesterday.

The Radio. Does anyone know if the original radio has its own separate fuse in addition to the short 15 amp one in the fuse block? The fuse in the block is fine. I sure hope I didn't fry the radio. It worked great until yesterday.

thanks you all again

[dcbullet]

Here is my suggestion. After you replace the turn signal switch, if it still doesn't work, start from the beginning and go to the end of each wire, through all it's connections, and see where is stops working.

For example, on the brakes, start at the fuse panel. Do you have power coming to the brake wiring? If no, move backwards. If yes, move to the brake switch. Does it work there? If yes, keep moving forward until it no longer has power. Then investigate around there.

Another suggestion. There is a connector on the engine side of your firewall that has the 4 wires that go to the back of the truck. You can do all your testing there so you don't need to lay on your back under the truck. Just unplug it and do your turn signal testing there.

All this testing can be done with a simple test light. I had zero electrical experience and nothing worked on my truck when I got it. I just wen little by little. I have a write up about it here.

http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 2880#22880