bushings

[cozadlance2]

are special tools required to replace suspension bushings? I have never done it. Thanks.
also, i imagine a split one would be easily identified as bad, but what else tells me it is time to yank them?

[fordman]

the rubber bushings. in the axles and leaf springs? a hammer and chisel probably is all you would need.

[Racer Z]

When one goes, the rest are gone too, or soon to follow. Usually they are gone long before you can see the split. I think the F250 bushings are sold as sets anyway.

Depends, I haven't done it on my F250 yet.
For most, I use a hydraulic press. I have used hammers with make-shift tools. An old socket of the correct size works, but it will never be a socket again. I've used water pipe, cut to fit. They are called, "special tools", lmao.

Don't get your special tool stuck in the hole and don't damage the hole. The old bushing will always get damaged on the way out.

When we put polyurethane bushings in our race car, we had to carefully heat up the old rubber bushings and pop them out with a hammer and socket. Then we used a hacksaw to remove the remaining sleeve from the control arms. That was the "very careful" part. Then we heated up the new polyurethane in boiling water and pressed them in.

[onetuford]

Radius arm bushings? Axle pivot bushings?

[Racer Z]

Radius arm bushings? Axle pivot bushings?

Radius arm bushing should slide off, with some effort.

Axle pivot bushings? Should be as I described earlier.

[cozadlance2]

i just do not know if they are bad. lacking any way to be sure I shall assume, on a 40 year old truck that they are unless there are telltale signs. thanks for the help. no odd noises except for a squeaking from the right wheel area if I hit a bump while turning, followed by a soft thunk. so far i cannot find any obvious issues and drivability is unaffected. After finding no grease in any of the fittings, I am thinking of replacing all the bushings as well.

[Racer Z]

Different vehicles have different types of suspension that get checked in different ways. In general, you un-weight the suspension and try to move the parts, sometimes by hand, others with a big-guy pry-bar. I will read my 71 Ford Factory (truck) Service Manual in a bit and quote from it.

You did not find any grease fittings because there are none. This is not a plain, ball or roller bushing. It is a rubber bushing. A new and correctly installed rubber bushing bonds (with friction) to each mating half of the surrounding metal. At that point, the rubber only flexes and becomes an important part of the spring and shock action. The suspension was designed with this rubber action in mind. Replacing all of you 40 year old rubber, even if it's not "bad" will renew the ride, feel, and sound of your old truck.

A good mechanic will service the rubber bushing when he services the rest of the truck/car. Each time you get the oil changed, these other things should also be serviced:
oil filter
lube all point that have a grease fitting
check transmission fluid
check transfer fluid (if applicable)
check rear end fluid
spray the rubber bushings with a solution that re-vitalizes the rubber (can't remember the name)

Fat chance getting this done at Jiffy Lube or that type of place.

Most mechanics only replace bushings one-at-a-time as they tend to wear uneven. I'm going to do all mine in one shot, it's not that expensive cause I can do the work.
-------------------------------

Ok, I've read the Ford Truck Factory Service Manual (1971) as well as Haynes (73-79). Both had the same thing to say about bushings.
NOTHING.

"Inspect the bushings for excessive wear."
"Take it apart and replace as necessary".

----------------------------

It seems to me that you should use a spring compressor while replacing the radius arm bushings. I would.

[cozadlance2]

Cool. Ty

[48prerunner]

Working on doing this now. I heated up the metal center and as the rubber bushings burned the center slid out like hot butter. They say you can pry the spring eye open a little and the metal outer sleeve will slid out. yeah right not in a NY truck . cutting them and pressing out this week.

[BobbyFord]

I remember there being some stuff called Rubber Lube, that was a glycerine based liquid. Came in one gallon bottles but we put it in an all-purpose spray bottle and used it on sway bar bushings, leaf bushings, etc. It kept the bushings from drying out or squeaking. I haven't seen the stuff for years but I'm sure it must still be available.

[cozadlance2]

Ty BobbyFord. That product I must have. I w look 4 it.

[cozadlance2]

What are spring pliers?

[Racer Z]

What are spring pliers?

There are several types of "spring pliers".

One type is a normal plier with a small spring to keep it normally open or normally closed.

Another type is used for opening springs. This has a hook on each jaw to grab the spring so you can safely open it and install or uninstall the spring. There is also a variant of this type that can close a spring. A "brake spring plier" is based on this concept.

I don't see where either type would be used to replace suspension bushings. I've never found the need.

What you will need is a "coil spring compressor" so you can work on the front end. There are several types.
One type goes inside the coil and grabs the coils. This has a single "bolt".
The other grabs the coils from the outside. There is a "bolt" on each side.
In either case there are hook like fingers that grab the coils. Tighten the bolt and the spring compresses so it can be removed. On the two bolt type, tighten each bolt equal amounts, alternating from bolt to bolt to compress the spring evenly.

The coil springs are under great load. If you are not careful they will go flying and something will break. It might be your finger, arm or head.
Compress the spring before removing the radius arm bolt.

[Mancar1]

Years back I saw one of those springs of which you speak go flyin across my shop. Went so fast I swore to my Wife it had a red cape on. I for one went in for a change of drawers.

[cozadlance2]

Red cape.
Thanks on plier info. Scary mental image to keep in mind for retaining truck and body pArts.