Don't pull a Brad...

Engine, ignition, fuel, cooling, exhaust

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audiquattro
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Location: Bellevue, WA

Don't pull a Brad...

Post by audiquattro »

So, I decided to fix the issue with my engine temp gauge always reading cold, very cold. It would only ever budge a millimeter or two and never get into the the Cold / Hot range on the gauge. I turn to Fordification and find out either my temp sender/sensor is bad or my thermostat stays open all the time or a poorly functioning gauge. I read that a common symptom of an always cold gauge is a faulty sensor.

Long story short, get the new sensor, go to remove the old one and I create a geyser of bright green coolant in my parking lot at home.... DOH!!!

I rush in and grab some stuff to clean up the gallon of green stuff flowing towards the storm drain. Got it all cleaned up and installed the new sensor. Topped off the coolant take it for a drive. 20 minutes into the drive the gauge is between the Cold and Hot!!! Finally, it is working the way it is suppose to!!!

Feeling confident that I won't make any other messes I did the spark plugs too. :D

Lesson for the day, put a bucket or pail under the truck when doing the temperature sensor with a full coolant system!

Brad
His: 1968 F100 LWB 360 3 speed
Hers: 2007 VW Rabbit 2.5 5 speed
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ToughOldFord
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Re: Don't pull a Brad...

Post by ToughOldFord »

Success in the end is what counts. :thup:
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70_F100
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Re: Don't pull a Brad...

Post by 70_F100 »

There's an easy way to do that without making a mess.

First, take off the radiator cap to remove any residual pressure.

Then, replace the cap.

Loosen the sending unit, but don't pull it all the way out. (you'll probably get a little leakage)

Have your new sending unit in one hand while you finish unscrewing the old one, then quickly change them.

It's a vacuum thing, sort of like holding your finger over the end of a straw and it will hold in liquid.

The cooling system is sealed with the cap on. When it's been run a while, pressure will build up. If you release the pressure, you're at a zero-pressure state. If you open the system slightly by removing the sender, the sealed system will hold a vacuum while you switch the senders. Won't work, though, if you have two openings in the system, like a radiator cap loose.

That's an old trick I learned about 45 years ago, even before bump trucks were designed.
Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools talk because they have to say something.--Plato
Why is it that there's seldom time to fix it right the first time, but there's always time to fix it right the second time???

That's not an oil leak :nono: That's SWEAT from all that HORSEPOWER!! :thup:
JMcTurnan

Re: Don't pull a Brad...

Post by JMcTurnan »

Lesson, only put em on when your truck is cold LOL. Don't worry we've all done that.
JMcTurnan

Re: Don't pull a Brad...

Post by JMcTurnan »

My temp gauge doesn't work, it sticks. So I just did an aftermarket.
audiquattro
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Re: Don't pull a Brad...

Post by audiquattro »

The truck was two days cold and I removed the radiator cap before I started to check coolant level and capped the system before starting... Maybe I need a new radiator cap.
His: 1968 F100 LWB 360 3 speed
Hers: 2007 VW Rabbit 2.5 5 speed
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