Doing Away with Power Brakes

1969_Fords_Forever · Post by **1969_Fords_Forever** » Fri Apr 10, 2009 7:50 am

Hey guys, I was wondering what it would do to convert my 1969 f100 from power brakes to non power brakes. They are to stock drums all the way around with no aftermarket modifications. Are the wheel cylinders different sizes for power brakes and non power brakes? I should note that there is nothing wrong mecanically with my brakes, just a small vaccuum leak I just perfer the more firm feel of the pedal with the non power setup. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks

FLATBEDFORD · Post by **FLATBEDFORD** » Fri Apr 10, 2009 8:52 am

On a related note, I am considering converting my 360 to hand crank starting and doing away with the electric starter motor.

mr_josh · Post by **mr_josh** » Fri Apr 10, 2009 2:50 pm

FLATBEDFORD wrote:On a related note, I am considering converting my 360 to hand crank starting and doing away with the electric starter motor.

Okay, now I have to clean coffee off of my monitor...

fordman · Post by **fordman** » Fri Apr 10, 2009 7:46 pm

just unpplug the vacuum hose to the brake booster and you are done. don't forget to plug the manifold vacuum hole tha the hose came off of.

BRUTUS_T_HOG · Post by **BRUTUS_T_HOG** » Fri Apr 10, 2009 9:17 pm

i would take power brakes ANY day. do you know how much it sucks to hold the brakes on an incline at a red light?

seattle67 · Post by **seattle67** » Fri Apr 10, 2009 10:24 pm

It would be an easy swap to take off the booster, just unbolt the master cylinder from the booster and let it lay forward, being careful not to damage the brake lines. Unbolt the push rod from the brake pedal, unbolt the booster and brackets from the firewall, remove it, and then bolt the master cylinder directly back up to the firewall. The only thing you will need is a new push rod that goes from the brake pedal to the master cylinder, a junk yard item. No other parts will need to be changed out.

flyboy71 · Post by **flyboy71** » Fri Apr 10, 2009 10:29 pm

I may just leave my floorboards out and use my feet.

19674x4 · Post by **19674x4** » Fri Apr 10, 2009 11:31 pm

BRUTUS_T_HOG wrote:i would take power brakes ANY day. do you know how much it sucks to hold the brakes on an incline at a red light?

it aint that bad. even when you got 2 yards of rock in the back

fordman · Post by **fordman** » Fri Apr 10, 2009 11:55 pm

flyboy71 wrote:I may just leave my floorboards out and use my feet.

have you tried the new predrilled and slotted brake lines yet?

BRUTUS_T_HOG · Post by **BRUTUS_T_HOG** » Tue Apr 14, 2009 11:00 pm

19674x4 wrote:
BRUTUS_T_HOG wrote:i would take power brakes ANY day. do you know how much it sucks to hold the brakes on an incline at a red light?
it aint that bad. even when you got 2 yards of rock in the back

yeah sure its managable, but it catches me off guard when i start rolling backward after i've been driving my little ranger for a while or the 350 bump

ezernut9mm · Post by **ezernut9mm** » Sun Apr 19, 2009 2:12 pm

not to be condescending, but why? are you wanting to clean up the look of the under hood area?

scott123 · Post by **scott123** » Sun Apr 19, 2009 5:11 pm

Straight answer, I woudnt do it.

On a side note, where can you get a stock bump crank handle. LMC doesnt sell em.

fordman · Post by **fordman** » Sun Apr 19, 2009 5:15 pm

crank handle? for the window? if its for brakes what is a crank handle for the brakes?

taylor351 · Post by **taylor351** » Sun Apr 19, 2009 6:09 pm

I think the crank is for the 360.

Thanks guys I needed a good belly laugh.

To original poster:
Just remove your booster, plug the vac tube you might have to mess with the length of the brake lines, yet they might stretch far enough to fit.

Keith

Redcap · Post by **Redcap** » Sun Apr 19, 2009 11:25 pm

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