69 ford f100 brake help

[Jchimbolo]

I am doing a 69 ford good humor. I was told it was all f250, but reading some posts, I don't think it is because the drums just pulled off, no axel bolts or anything.

I replaced all the lines, wheel cyl and master cyl with parts from LMC as f250. 45-4020 master , 45-4211, 45-4210, 45-4243 and 45-4242 wheel cyl. All listed as 66-72 F250 2wd.

I can not get any pressure bleeding these lines. Just a little, the shoes needed a lot of star wheel turns to start to drag. The wheels will turn, but just drag. Tons of pedal travel. At the floor I get some brake. no leaks. The master has the large rear and small front.

The master came with a push rod, do I need it? I have a brake booster on the truck.
Any idea what is wrong, will these f250 parts not work if this is really f100? How can I know what parts I should have?
Could LMC have the wrong parts or something?
Do I need to do anything to the proportion valve, could this be the problem?

[fordman]

how many lug nuts does the wheel have on it.

[Jchimbolo]

Eight I believe. I am not home to check. Not 5 for sure.

[fordman]

8 is f250 5 is f100.

[Jchimbolo]

It seems like I am not getting enough throw on the peddle. Is there a part missing from this booster. The end has some splines on it. It should have a rounded end I would think. If gone ( I got rid of the old master) can i get the part?

[fordman]

do you have a pic of that. i think i know what your talking about and it sounds wrong but i want to make sure.

[Jchimbolo]

Picture

[fordman]

ok yes the splines lead upto a flat end and then a little threaded ball screws into the splined flat end. so it is missing something then. i do not know if you can buy them but you can get oen from a parts truck. i bet year might not matter on that.

[Jchimbolo]

Last one, can I just remove the booster for now and bolt the master direct to the firewall? The master came with a pushrod, Is the pedal assy unique to the booster setup?

I live in CT, not too many parts trucks, they get crushed quick.

[fordman]

yes you can do that. there is no difference in the brake pedal setup from power or manual brakes. the booster is the only difference when going to and from power brakes.

[Jchimbolo]

There does seem to be a little fitting there. So maybe this is not the problem. The peddle goes to about an inch to the floor, then has a little pressure. There is nothing near the top. When I bleed the lines, the fluid does not bleed out strong. I am thinking this new master cyl is bad or something. Almost every part I bought from LMC was not too good. A mis match between the size of the master and wheel cyl should only make a soft or firm peddle, not this much of a problem I don't think.

[QC]

Did you bench bleed the master cylinder before you installed it? If you didn't you will be pumping a long time to get all the air out.
All these brake parts should be available at local parts stores. That makes it a lot easier to return or exchange stuff if have problems.

[Jchimbolo]

I just did, put it back in and no change.

[michael69]

Did you try to bleed brakes again after you bleed the master cylinder if not you will have air in the lines now since you didn't bench bleed master first time you put it on.

[fordman]

im sure you bled them right but fo rthose who read this and dont knwo you bench bleed your master cylinder to get the air out of the master before you hook up the brake lines ot it. then hook up the brake lines and bleed the wheel cylinder starting at the furthest wheel the right rear and work toward the closest left front when bleeding all of the wheel cylinders. gravity bleeding is a method. but i wouldn't do it. pumping up the pedal and bleeding htem is the best way to do it. never let the master cylinder run dry when bleeding the brakes.