front hanger??? HELP!!!

[td]

ok guys i need you on this one!! im in the middlle of doing a power/disc swap and i failed to mention when i introduced myself that i am also using DJM I beams. well i lack just a few parts such as proportioning valve and booster/master cylinder. so while im waiting for them to come in ithought i would go ahead and tackle the rear. heres were my ???? comes in, i decided to try useing the front hanger fliping methed, its suposed to give a honest 4" in the rear. i currently have the hangers lose from the frame and loosely bolted to the leafs, and fliped over.trying to find were to locate them to reattach them is the tricky part. the hanger naturly moves rearward when you move it up while still attached to the springs, so do i bolt it down were it trys to locate itself, witch is 4/5'' inches rearward or do i take it lose from the springs and locate it directly above the stock location? i hope someone has already been here and done this. THANKS in advance for any replies.

[theskytoucher]

I have no experience
But my thought is if you dont put it where the spring wants it you wont be able to bolt the springs back to the hangers, Am i right?

[averagef250]

Never lowered anything myself, but I have fabbed plenty of custom 4x4 suspension, built many trailers, etc.

The fixed spring end eye to the shackle pivot point distance must remain the same if the spring is the same. Just measure from spring mount hole to hole in the stock location and make sure that distance stays the same with the hanger mounted the other way.

[FORDification]

Jack the truck up and support it with jackstands under the frame, with the rear tires off the ground. Put a hydraulic jack under the rearend to support the weight, and then remove/attach the front hanger wherever the springs are holding it in place. Make sure the rear shackle angle is about the same before and after the move.

[td]

thats correct troy i would have trouble reattaching the springs if i bolted in the oringinal spot only fliping them, ill let yall know how it turns out. thanks again for the advice.

[wt4speed#2]

Here is where mine landed

The two black head bolts were the existing frame holes,the two gold colored bolts I had to ream the frame to match the hanger. Actual movement of the center of the front eye leaf of the spring was approx 3/4 to 1 inch rearward . I got the maximum drop on my front rear spring hangers I could get without altering the hanger in anyway. I'm running the flare side and when I get ready to reinstall my bed I'm going to have to raise the floor the thickness of the wood (approx. 7/8") to clear the top of the hanger,3/4 would suffice but it will be just as easy to put the bottom side of the floor at the height the top side used to be. I didn't want to space the whole bed up enough to clear the hanger as that would add at least that(3/4") back to the nearly 4" of gap between the top of the tire to the bottom of the fender well that I closed. I have no clue on a fleetside what if any bed floor interference would exist. That is some thing you would just have to play with to see if you could even use the existing holes that I mentioned above .

Here is a photo that show the approx. clearance between top of tire and fender lip. We just set the bed in the immediate area and still has floor intact.,and the only before pic with these wheels is locked up in the fordification galleries

This picture is at stock height(in need of bushings and bolts) on stock wheels, with a complete 302 sitting right against the tail gate

I'm sorry I didn't mean to ramble but this is the 1st time this has come up since I've felt like typing this out (post surgery) I hope it's not confusing as I'm not a tutorial writer (Mr Dickson's job) i hope it helps and if you need me to cipher any of this out for you just ask.