Could you raise the ibeam mounting point?
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- dablack00
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Could you raise the ibeam mounting point?
I know we can't lower our trucks too far because of the ibeam suspension. I have one of my trucks stripped down to the front frame. The small end of the ibeam could be raised a couple of inches and then the spring end could be lowered maybe four inches before you started having suspension problems......right?
What would be wrong with raising the small end of the ibeam?
Austin
What would be wrong with raising the small end of the ibeam?
Austin
- SmokeyBear
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re: Could you raise the ibeam mounting point?
I have seen it done before, I don't have it done on mine though. The first thing that hit was the bumpstops. I Cut off my bump stops and mounts. I now only have about 1/2 of clearance between the frame and I-beam. But like was stated above you would have to notch the crossmember (the truck I saw like this had been). Basically other than alignment issues, I don't think it's worth the effort. Mine is as slammed as far as she'll go w/ a decent ride before I get my bags and IFS. And they were able to bend my beams to where I don't have negative camber. I would get drop beams but I've only got about 3-4 inches of clearance between my crossmember and the pavement 

Charles
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- marz68
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I would be all about that.marz68 wrote:sombody needs to come out with a kit so that you can lay your truck in the weeds on stock I beams.I would do that but I will need a ginny pig.
1969 Ford F-100. 302 4 barrel, C4 auto, 9in 3.50 open rear, headers, power steering, Turq/wht, Under restoration. In other words, in a million pieces!!!
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re: Could you raise the ibeam mounting point?
just design some drop spindles.
When the going gets tough, your doing something right.


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Re: re: Could you raise the ibeam mounting point?
mcarlson11 wrote:just design some drop spindles.


____| \__
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special



My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
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-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
- Big D's 69
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SO what is so hard about it that no one has come out with one? I'm no engineer, but almost every other vehicle has them so why not us?
1969 Ford F-100. 302 4 barrel, C4 auto, 9in 3.50 open rear, headers, power steering, Turq/wht, Under restoration. In other words, in a million pieces!!!
There is no Replacement for Displacment!!!
My Photo Gallery: http://www.fordification.com/galleries/ ... ?album=655
There is no Replacement for Displacment!!!
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- theskytoucher
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re: Could you raise the ibeam mounting point?
nobody wants to take the time to do it. they dont think there is the market for them but this classic trucks article might get somebody to do something about it!!! We can only hope
-Troy-
1996 Dodge ram 1500 4x4
1976 Ford F-150 4x4
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When all else Fails Play Dead
1996 Dodge ram 1500 4x4
1976 Ford F-150 4x4
Quando Omni Flunkus Mortadi
When all else Fails Play Dead
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It would just be nice to have that option. I would figure 16's or bigger would clear.
1969 Ford F-100. 302 4 barrel, C4 auto, 9in 3.50 open rear, headers, power steering, Turq/wht, Under restoration. In other words, in a million pieces!!!
There is no Replacement for Displacment!!!
My Photo Gallery: http://www.fordification.com/galleries/ ... ?album=655
There is no Replacement for Displacment!!!
My Photo Gallery: http://www.fordification.com/galleries/ ... ?album=655
- snake
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re: Could you raise the ibeam mounting point?
I don't know this for sure but I suspect that drop spindles simply will not work efficiently for the I-beam/king pin style setups(twin I-beam or single I-beam). Don't take me wrong - it could probably be done but it would be more than just making a drop spindle with the spindle shaft repositioned higher.
Here are my thoughts.......
Looking at your typical drop spindle for double control arm suspensions - the actual spindle shaft remains between the upper and lower balljoints. Moving its location changes the amount of forces applied to each ball-joint but the load still goes to both and the same direction as originally designed.
Looking at our king-pin style spindle in the stock form we have the same condition as far as the actual spindle shaft being between the upper and lower kingpin bushings. See sketch
http://www.fordification.com/tech/image ... ematic.jpg
The kingpin bushings basically handle the same loads as the upper and lower balljoint on dual control arms suspensions in regard to positioning/stabilizing the spindle. However the king pin bushings are much closer together than upper and lower ball joints.
Now if the same basic concept is followed to design a drop spindle for the kingpin style spindle (simply raising the actual spindle shaft relative to the mounting points)the spindle shaft quickly moves even with or above the top king pin bushing rather than being between them. In essence this creates a cantilever design with the spindle shaft and associated forces being above both bushings which will quickly wear the bushings out, not to mention require a much beefier spindle to prevent bending. Larger bushings capable of handling the loads or wider spacing between king pin bushings could be used to handle these issues but as you can see, this quickly snowballs into custom spindles, king pins and I-beams.........
Enough rambling....... Again, let me state that I have not performed any calculations etc regarding this - these are just my thoughts as to why there aren't drop spindles available for our bumpsides. Also, when I look at street rod parts catalogs such as Speedway Motors etc, they do have reproduction spindles for many straight axle cars but I don't recall seeing any that were 'drop spindles' - just newer better materials and manufacturing processes or with revised brake mountings. Typically all kingpin style suspensions were dropped using the axles rather than the spindles......(obviously I don't know about all products ever produced so there may be something out there that contradicts my comments - I'm just speaking of what I've seen and know about)
Here are my thoughts.......
Looking at your typical drop spindle for double control arm suspensions - the actual spindle shaft remains between the upper and lower balljoints. Moving its location changes the amount of forces applied to each ball-joint but the load still goes to both and the same direction as originally designed.
Looking at our king-pin style spindle in the stock form we have the same condition as far as the actual spindle shaft being between the upper and lower kingpin bushings. See sketch
http://www.fordification.com/tech/image ... ematic.jpg
The kingpin bushings basically handle the same loads as the upper and lower balljoint on dual control arms suspensions in regard to positioning/stabilizing the spindle. However the king pin bushings are much closer together than upper and lower ball joints.
Now if the same basic concept is followed to design a drop spindle for the kingpin style spindle (simply raising the actual spindle shaft relative to the mounting points)the spindle shaft quickly moves even with or above the top king pin bushing rather than being between them. In essence this creates a cantilever design with the spindle shaft and associated forces being above both bushings which will quickly wear the bushings out, not to mention require a much beefier spindle to prevent bending. Larger bushings capable of handling the loads or wider spacing between king pin bushings could be used to handle these issues but as you can see, this quickly snowballs into custom spindles, king pins and I-beams.........
Enough rambling....... Again, let me state that I have not performed any calculations etc regarding this - these are just my thoughts as to why there aren't drop spindles available for our bumpsides. Also, when I look at street rod parts catalogs such as Speedway Motors etc, they do have reproduction spindles for many straight axle cars but I don't recall seeing any that were 'drop spindles' - just newer better materials and manufacturing processes or with revised brake mountings. Typically all kingpin style suspensions were dropped using the axles rather than the spindles......(obviously I don't know about all products ever produced so there may be something out there that contradicts my comments - I'm just speaking of what I've seen and know about)
- Big D's 69
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Well thinking of it that way it does make sense. SO maybe that is why there isn't any drop spindles. Thanks for shedding light that makes sense.
1969 Ford F-100. 302 4 barrel, C4 auto, 9in 3.50 open rear, headers, power steering, Turq/wht, Under restoration. In other words, in a million pieces!!!
There is no Replacement for Displacment!!!
My Photo Gallery: http://www.fordification.com/galleries/ ... ?album=655
There is no Replacement for Displacment!!!
My Photo Gallery: http://www.fordification.com/galleries/ ... ?album=655
- marz68
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Re: re: Could you raise the ibeam mounting point?
That was great!snake wrote:I don't know this for sure but I suspect that drop spindles simply will not work efficiently for the I-beam/king pin style setups(twin I-beam or single I-beam). Don't take me wrong - it could probably be done but it would be more than just making a drop spindle with the spindle shaft repositioned higher.
Here are my thoughts.......
Looking at your typical drop spindle for double control arm suspensions - the actual spindle shaft remains between the upper and lower balljoints. Moving its location changes the amount of forces applied to each ball-joint but the load still goes to both and the same direction as originally designed.
Looking at our king-pin style spindle in the stock form we have the same condition as far as the actual spindle shaft being between the upper and lower kingpin bushings. See sketch
http://www.fordification.com/images/kin ... ematic.jpg
The kingpin bushings basically handle the same loads as the upper and lower balljoint on dual control arms suspensions in regard to positioning/stabilizing the spindle. However the king pin bushings are much closer together than upper and lower ball joints.
Now if the same basic concept is followed to design a drop spindle for the kingpin style spindle (simply raising the actual spindle shaft relative to the mounting points)the spindle shaft quickly moves even with or above the top king pin bushing rather than being between them. In essence this creates a cantilever design with the spindle shaft and associated forces being above both bushings which will quickly wear the bushings out, not to mention require a much beefier spindle to prevent bending. Larger bushings capable of handling the loads or wider spacing between king pin bushings could be used to handle these issues but as you can see, this quickly snowballs into custom spindles, king pins and I-beams.........
Enough rambling....... Again, let me state that I have not performed any calculations etc regarding this - these are just my thoughts as to why there aren't drop spindles available for our bumpsides. Also, when I look at street rod parts catalogs such as Speedway Motors etc, they do have reproduction spindles for many straight axle cars but I don't recall seeing any that were 'drop spindles' - just newer better materials and manufacturing processes or with revised brake mountings. Typically all kingpin style suspensions were dropped using the axles rather than the spindles......(obviously I don't know about all products ever produced so there may be something out there that contradicts my comments - I'm just speaking of what I've seen and know about)
I dose make sense.
- MadMaxetc
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re: Could you raise the ibeam mounting point?
I am!Big D's 69 wrote:I'm no engineer

I am listening...FORDification wrote:If there's one thing that someone really needs to engineer, it's a good set of drop spindles.
(and the other stuff he said...)snake wrote:I don't know this for sure but I suspect that drop spindles simply will not work efficiently for the I-beam/king pin style setups(twin I-beam or single I-beam). Don't take me wrong - it could probably be done but it would be more than just making a drop spindle with the spindle shaft repositioned higher.
All true, but...
Maybe I could do that.snake wrote:let me state that I have not performed any calculations etc regarding this


I will talk to them some time about it...
BACK TO THE QUESTION...
You could move the axle pivot up...but you would have to move all related parts with it.
You would have to cut some of the coils out of the spring.
You would have to notch the crossmember to allow clearance with the I's
You would have to change the drop on the pitman arm.
You might also have to notch out the frame above the bumpstops.
Oh and you would have to be sure to clear the oil pan on your engine.
That is a lot of work to keep the I-beams
PS: Engineers went to school for math and physics...not spelling and grammar.







Dan
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Project: '63 F-100 LWB / 460 / C6 / 2x4 / Work In Progress!
Daily Driver: '67 F-250 Converted to F-100 LWB / 300 / T-5 / 9" 3.70:1 / 235/75R15 Tires
1/4 mile in 17.64s @ 75mph (it's 4200lbs!!!)
"Work Harder! Millions On Welfare Depend On YOU!!"
FORD Girl
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