brake hose to caliper

[bobogidd]

how in the heck do you get the bolt with the hole in it,that goes through the mounting block, with a hole in it to line up? when i pump the brake the fluid squirts out of the line to caliper connection . i did put the brake line on once for a fit up , did ipossibly damage the copper washers, or over tighten the bolt? the reason i didnt have a mark on the bolt was because this is a brake conversion,i had drum originaly.this is driving me nuts, i am so ready to bleed `em & hit the road with my new power steering (tilt) & power disc brakes on a sweet 1970 ranger.

[fordman]

is the bolt bottoming out before it clamps the connection tight enough? i can't think of what could be wrong. i'm sure that you got the line and caliper from the same truck.

[390Nut]

You need to replace the crush washers every time you take the brake lines off, for any reason. You can anneal them, which may work, but it's not guaranteed.

To do that, heat them up really hot, say, with a torch, on a flat metal surface. I use an old small fry pan myself (advantages of being a cook ) and when it's really hot, dump it into a small container with ice water in it. basically it's like a tempering process, but what it does is resize the copper ring, so that when you reset them, they will crush a little bit and HOPEFULLY seal.

I do the same thing with the copper exhaust ring gaskets on my bike, because they are $5.00 a piece, and take the dealer two weeks to order.

[ICEMAN6166]

the copper washers are like 50 cents at the auto parts here.

they are making them from aluminum now too .
my friends backhoe has them on the injector pump, the originals were copper, we replaced the lines and the new washers were alum.

[bobogidd]

hey ,i figured it out! only one option left, i turned the brake line connector over and presto, the holes matched up & the calipers are getting fluid. as i had said before i had nothing to go by . the connector has a lip (flange) on it , i was turning it downwards & it was causing the fluid to squirt out because it wasnt flushing up to the caliper. i bled the lines & got a pedal but m/cylinder leaks from the front (reused the rubber boot) & the pedal seems to bleed down when running. the brakes work but not to my expectations at all, and the rear tires tend to lock up under heavy breaking one or the other. this is a fast truck & the drum brake system was better. can my problem be the rubber boot in the m/c lid or my booster or even the master cylinder?all parts came from a 78 so ...

[fordman]

about your rears locking up. did you get proportional valve to go with your new discs? you will need that to equallize the brakes.

[bobogidd]

i didnt buy a new one but replaced the smaller (original one with drum)with the one off the parts truck (1978 f-150 custom). cleaned up nice & appeared to be a good part. the parts truck was running & the brakes worked fine so i used the valve.the main reason i changed the valve out was because i replaced the brake lines front to back with aftermarket s.s lines for a 1978 not a 1970 as is my truck.the location of the valve changed to where it would be on the parts truck(1978) so i used that valve & mounting bracket . it worked great , there was even the screw holes already there to mount it in the exact same location it was on the 1978.i have about ruled everything else out because i have gone back through bleeding the lines & there is no air ,just a steady stream of fluid. the power booster is fine & still leary of the m.c as far as the leak.

[fordman]

ok thats sounds right the only other question is besides the possible bad master cylinder is. are the brake lines hooked up to the propotional valve the same way they were on the donor truck. as far as front and back lines in the correct places. the master cylinder deal could be the master cylinder or it could be a leak else where in the system. but you probably haven't seen any fluid so that brings you back to your master cylinder.

let us know what you think on this.

[bobogidd]

lines to valve almost have to be right due to the angle the valve is on in relation to the bends in the lines. i did just read an article on bleeding the master cylinder, think that could be it ?

[fordman]

you can try it. if its bad though it might not do anything. but if its the front one the only place it could be going out one of the rear lines or into the booster. is there any wetness in the booster vaccum lines?