Trying to get the 70 F100 I just purchased ready for Virginia state inspection. Haven't had time to get the manuals yet. There is some play in the steering. I discovered the pitman arm shaft is moving in the steering box (bearing/bushing wear). The truck came with a MAC's Antique Auto Parts catalog which indicates there are bearings (P/N C3DZ-3517-A) that can be replaced at the top and bottom of the steering box. NAPA also lists pitman arm shaft bearings online (P/N BRG B1816). However, I also read in the forum here that there are not any bearings/bushings. Are there bearings and if so, how difficult are they to replace?
Dave
Manual steering box Pitman Arm bearing/bushing
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re: Manual steering box Pitman Arm bearing/bushing
Probably just start by slapping on a new steering box.
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re: Manual steering box Pitman Arm bearing/bushing
are you sure it's slop in your steering box, and not your tie rods or anything else? If I were you I would look for a steering box (manual or a power steering setup). I have a blown up manual steering box with good bearings, bad everything else.
if you had the front end jacked up, and had someone hold the steering wheel can you turn the tires from left to right?
if you had the front end jacked up, and had someone hold the steering wheel can you turn the tires from left to right?
Last edited by splavin90 on Wed Jun 21, 2006 5:20 am, edited 2 times in total.
69 F100 81' 302 / 73' fmx
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C'mon guys.. that is a good suggestion but it does not answer his question. He may not have the money or availability to do that.
Unfortunately I don't have the answer to your question. You will also wanna check the rag joint for play as this is a major contributor.
Patrick
Unfortunately I don't have the answer to your question. You will also wanna check the rag joint for play as this is a major contributor.
Patrick
Chevrolet
Can Hear Every Valve Rattle on Long Extended Trips
1969 F100 4X4 Highboy 390 3sp
1969 F100 SWB 2wd Auto 351w
1972 F100 Ranger XLT 302 Auto
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Can Hear Every Valve Rattle on Long Extended Trips
1969 F100 4X4 Highboy 390 3sp
1969 F100 SWB 2wd Auto 351w
1972 F100 Ranger XLT 302 Auto
http://mrsnicks.blogspot.com
http://www.fordification.com/galleries/ ... ?cat=10336
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re: Manual steering box Pitman Arm bearing/bushing
As I said in my original post, I discovered the pitman arm shaft is moving in the steering box. The bearing/bushing, whichever it is, is worn allowing the sector shaft to move. The pitman arm does not start turning until slack is taken up so that it has a solid surface to work against. As a temporary fix (stress temporary), I have shimmed the shaft which eliminated the slack. The final solution is to either:
1. Replace manual with a refurb power steering setup.
2. Have my unit rebuilt (around $275).
3. Get a rebuilt one if available (around $215 + $75 core).
I have a hunch the manual box uses brass bushings. I can get a rebuilt power unit for around $145 (they are easy to locate it seems) but still would need the pump, brackets, pulleys, hoses and belt. I will use my temp fix until I can upgrade to power steering. I want to use the truck to move household stuff next week. Previous owner apparently has changed the steering column also but I think it is one of the long ones. OK for me (I'm lean) but if you have a beer gut it would be a bit difficult to fit behind the wheel. While working through the steering box issue, I discover the PO had disconnected the connector to the brake light warning switch. Naturally the light came on. Bleed the brakes and resolved that issue. I had already gone through and cleaned up each wheel assembly so knew that part was ok. PO apparently did not know how or was to lazy to deal with a brake warning light. Tonight I get to deal with rusty exhaust bolts. The exhaust manifold flange donuts (exhaust pipe connection) are leaking. Now if the studs just do not snap off .....
Dave
1. Replace manual with a refurb power steering setup.
2. Have my unit rebuilt (around $275).
3. Get a rebuilt one if available (around $215 + $75 core).
I have a hunch the manual box uses brass bushings. I can get a rebuilt power unit for around $145 (they are easy to locate it seems) but still would need the pump, brackets, pulleys, hoses and belt. I will use my temp fix until I can upgrade to power steering. I want to use the truck to move household stuff next week. Previous owner apparently has changed the steering column also but I think it is one of the long ones. OK for me (I'm lean) but if you have a beer gut it would be a bit difficult to fit behind the wheel. While working through the steering box issue, I discover the PO had disconnected the connector to the brake light warning switch. Naturally the light came on. Bleed the brakes and resolved that issue. I had already gone through and cleaned up each wheel assembly so knew that part was ok. PO apparently did not know how or was to lazy to deal with a brake warning light. Tonight I get to deal with rusty exhaust bolts. The exhaust manifold flange donuts (exhaust pipe connection) are leaking. Now if the studs just do not snap off .....
![Sad :(](./images/smilies/icon_sad.gif)
Dave