Found Cut Wires - is this a little deal or a big deal...?

[UKPR1]

First up - this is a new to me 1969 Ranger LWB. Runs but not that great, so I'm attending to some things whole parts come in.

I took out the cluster to clean up the lens tonight, only to be greeted by my greatest fear...cut wires. Wires pulled out/detached from the fuse box...a wire coming out of the ignition bare twisted to another that disappeared into the firewall...a switch that powered gosh-knows-what...a cut wire here - a cut wire there...

Is this new harness territory, or is this something that I cam systematically work through?

Thanks in advance!

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[UKPR1]

A close up...

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[sparky72]

That doesn't look too terrible. I think most of these trucks these days have some sort of fabricobbled wiring. Mine had a number of toggle switches, wire nuts, and so on when I bought it. The wiring diagrams on here saved my bacon; I printed one off on the plotter at work and keep it in the truck. I don't think you'll have too much trouble figuring out what goes where. Good luck! I actually kind of enjoy chasing down wiring problems, at least on simple vehicles like these.

P.S. The switch probably controls the heater blower motor, if I had to hazard a guess.

[sargentrs]

The fact that it runs is encouraging. None of that can't be fixed. Difinitely start with a diagram and trace/repair the unknown wires/switch first.

69 diagram: http://www.fordification.com/tech/wirin ... rging2.jpg

The 70 diagram is almost identical and has a better fuse panel diagram: http://www.fordification.com/tech/wirin ... master.jpg

That fuse panel is going to need some work/cleaning/repair. Might consider upgrading to an ATO style. I did it on my '64 Fairlane and, while tedious, it worked great and gave me a lot more flexibility. https://youtu.be/s7npq2HVszM

[UKPR1]

Sparky - thanks for the support and the paper bag to breathe into...I see wiring like that and I start to hyperventilate!

Sarge - that information Is awesome. The real money though, was in your video! Pretty incredible. I think taking the old box out of the equation and putting in something new and modern is the way to go. Currently ordering something from amazon as we speak. Keep calm, breathe, and follow the diagrams...got it!

The little radio suppression choke gizmo on the voltage regulator on the back of the cluster came apart on me. Is there a modern replacement for that? The NOS ones I found are well over $120!

[sargentrs]

The little radio suppression choke gizmo on the voltage regulator on the back of the cluster came apart on me. Is there a modern replacement for that? The NOS ones I found are well over $120!

Got a part number? Not sure what you're talking about.

[UKPR1]

This:

Reads C7AA 18A952-A

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[sargentrs]

Got it! After deep diving into the interweb it's a radio supression choke to cut out interference on AM and CB radios. From reading other sites posts most just leave it off and their gauge accuracy improved without it. Here's a link in TBird forum explaining it. Other links in those provide additional information. http://vintagethunderbirdclub.net/phpBB ... hp?t=16179

[tsherry]

Messy but not terribly so.

[UKPR1]

Thanks for the vote of confidence, TS.

Sarge - I took a look at the posts about the radio suppressor and won’t sweat it.

I spent the day eliminating Extra wires and Confirming connectivity. I eliminated all of the extra wiring except for : a cut pink wire with a single strand in it - I believe they call this the resistor wire. My question here is: I have bought a ignition conversion kit And is this wire critical to be restored, and if it is - how should I wire the replacement in?
The other issue is a connector with a black with green stripe going in and an orange and brown coming out. The orange goes to the wiper switch. When I probe the end of brown wire, I get connectivity to 2 terminals On the cluster plug. I’m a little befuddled by this one - can anyone shed some light?

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Thanks in advance!

[sargentrs]

If you're switching to electronic ignition you do not need the pink wire. You can cut it out, fix it, or wrap it up, it'll serve no purpose. Does that 2 wire connector have an open hole in the center? Since the orange goes to the wiper switch, it's probably the accessory switch position that feeds power from the fuse panel via the black/green wire (#297) from the fuse panel to #297B in this diagram http://www.fordification.com/tech/wirin ... washer.jpg Not sure about the brown wire. The diagrams only show the orange wire going to the wiper switch with the other 2 terminals open.

[UKPR1]

Sarge,

Happy 4th of July and thanks for clearing that up! Yes - the brown wire from that plug that is cut would appear to be from an add-on at some point. The truck still has a bracket that housed a CB in close proximity, so perhaps from that.

They say that imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, and to that end, I hope you don't mind me following your lead on the fuse box install, which I've copied verbatim. That being said, I have a few questions if you'd be so kind as to clear up for me:

1. The original fuse box was fed (powered) by wire 37 (black with a yellow stripe). In your diagram, you run a new fused wire to the fuse box. Is the reason you didn't reuse wire 37 as the wire that runs to the new block because of it's size? By comparison, wire 297(A) (black with green stripe) which is not constant on power, is so much thicker and capable of higher amps.
2. With regards to the wire that you have coming into the relay that from the switch accessory on the ignition: can I use this very same wire 297(A) (Black with green stripe) that enters the old fuse block as the wire that powers Relay Terminal 86?

Hope you don't think I'm an idiot (which electrically I am...) with such stupid questions. But if I don't ask, then something is going to go fizz and closely follow by that ugly smell of melted insulation and frustration.

Thanks again for all of your help! I think that I can see the electrical light at the end of the tunnel...

Best Regards!

[sargentrs]

I just felt like going all new wiring and uprading wire sizes to what I felt was more appropriate. Wanted to leave as much of the original wiring in place and just work around it if possible. And yes, I'd use wire #297 to trigger the relay. In fact, I always do when I install electronic ignition.

[UKPR1]

Sarge,

Thanks for hanging with me through this. Spent most of the day kneeling an twisted getting the wires, block and relay bolted in and ready. Tomorrow I'd like to do the crimping of the wires, but wanted to check with you to see if my schematics were sound enough to work:

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I inspected and tested the supply wires (37A and 297A) and they seem to be up to the job. I don't intend to go power crazy with truck and intend to modernize small things that should improve the current power consumption. Anyway - will what I am thinking work? Any fatal flaws?

Thanks Randy and everyone!

Geoff

[sargentrs]

I never actually did this on our trucks. just on my Fairlane where the fuse panel is piggy backed on the headlight switch. So, we're in virgin territory here. I made those diagrams from theory, not in actual practice. Initial review looks like it'll work. Before you start crimping and soldering wires I'd start with one circuit at a time. First work on the start/run circuit and get that working. Then move to the light switch and wiper circuits. Then the instrument panel. Save the accessories like the radio, cigar lighter, dome lights, etc for last.