The height is 16 3/4 on the old and 13 3/4 on the new. Width is 5 3/8 on the old while the new is 4 3/4. So less then an inch narrower. I wondered how well that would fit the top perch. It looked like the new spring will fit to the I beam well enough.
Everything fit well, A lot more snug. Rides well, little bumps are less noticeable.
There are some fitment "issues" worth noting.
1: though it tightened down just as well as on oem springs; The spring clamp at the top perch does not line up the spring coil. Other then that no issue. Fits snug in the spring perch lip.
2: the little spacer the spring sits on at the bottom where it bolts down. The explorer springs fits quit snug with no wiggle room. But settled down on it nicely once finished. NOTE: both the top clamp and bottom bolt will need tightning once your truck is on all 4s.
NOTE: there are 2 types of spring spacer seats. 66-72 and 73-79. Or more simply cast radios arms or the steal radius arms. In the pic bellow, the top one is for steel and the bottom is for cast. The lip indicates this. The steel fit the explorer springs tighter.
Went from a tire to fender gap of 5 1/4 stock spring height to a tire to fender gap of 3 3/4 explorer spring height. About a 2" drop. For those of us like me who already are riding With 2 coils cut from stock springs it was less then an inch drop. At $24 (normally $35) This is a good alternative to cutting your springs and waaaay less expensive then buying lowering springs. $35vs$200
Now I know you're all gonna say "why not just go drop beams" but not all of us can or want to buy those dream beams.
I also saw no indication to show this swop effecting camber in regards to needing realignment. But it's good practice. I personally do plan to check my steering alignment, even though it drove straight and true.
