I'm about to change the gaskets on my '70 F250 360 valve covers, as there is some oil seepage. Never done this before. Any other tips that you guys can give about doing this right? I know that this isn't a major repair or anything but I love finding out what mistakes I would have made before I actually make them. I'm assuming that I'll remove both covers, clean the old gasket material off. Add a gasket maker/sealer to the bottom surface of the covers, place gasket on the covers and compress into the RTV. Do you also apply RTV to the other side of the gasket or is that not necessary?
I know some do and some don't, but I personally do to help seal any small leak ports. The upside is a bit improved sealing, while the down side is if you have to remove the valve cover again, you may have to replace it. For me, I'd rather replace rather than re-use gaskets unless they are super clean.
""Never shoot a large caliber man with a small caliber bullet."
2017 Ford Raptor
1970 F250 4x4
1948 Willys CJ2A w/ Ford Flathead V-8
1975 Ford Bronco
Whether oil pan or valve cover I like to put bolts through the holes and get them all started a thread or two to make sure all the holes are lined up. Then slide it to the block or heads so the bolts act as a guide pin, snug a couple down by hand to hold it, then tighten up the rest. Go cross corner/sides. Tighten them all evenly in 2-3 passes. Then a final pass to fully tightened. Don't over tighten or the gaskets will squeeze out.
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
Excellent tips. I made use of them all. I applied Black RTV to both sides of the gasket. Applied it between cover and gasket top first and let that set up for 20 minutes. Then I applied a bead to the gasket bottom, got the bolts through and in a couple of turns into the chassis. Slid the cover down and hand tightened bolts. Let it set up for an hour and now I'm back to tighten the bolts down for good. About how tight should these be torqued down? I know too tight is not good as it can compromise the gasket, but how tight if using a socket wrench?
The actual torque spec is 10 ft/lbs which ain't much. If you don't have a torque wrench then just tighten until sealant squeezes out just a little and stop if you see the gasket squeeze out any at all.
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
Instead of immediately applying the clips, the RTV should be allowed to out-gas about 10 minutes before the gasket is firmly applied. A little RTV goes a long way. If any oozes out between the mating surfaces, that is an indication that too much was used. A 1/8-inch bead for valve covers is all it takes.