New disks - lower brake pedal?

[fordman]

can't you tell the year by micing the king pin? or at least get a close guess on the year.

[mrsnicks]

Well, from what I read in the "how to" the difference is only .13 or so, and I do not have a tool to measure that closely, also the kingpins are still in, and have yet to be removed.

The numbers I found on the spindle are A big number "1" on the inside top, next to it G(or)6 followed by 312. Farther down in the middle in an endention there is Ford 8-cd. These are all the numbers I could find, hope it helps, and thanks for the help.

Patrick
Chevrolet
Can Hear Every Valve Rattle Over Long Extended Trips

I came up with that myself and am kinda proud of it.

[CJ,s 67 F100]

Have you tried adjusting the length of the master cyclinder rod? Some are adjustable. I had to shorten mine because when I put the new master cyclinder on my freshly rebuilt power booster the brakes were on and wouldnt release. In adjusting it I found the length of stroke on my brake pedal changed. I got my front discs off of a 73F100 and I did not put the Proportioning valve on mine. I can lock up all four wheels with out it so I havnt figured out why I need it yet. But I do have it for when I figure this out.

[68shortyford]

This is a great site! I finally got the brakes bled and I'm on the road! All is working right. The disks really do a nice job of smooth, controlled stopping. A great upgrade.

Thanks Paul (390nut) for the great deal on all of the parts.

While bolting things together, I was thinking that I was going to need to get a pitman arm, drag link and tie rod from a 74-up truck. My truck is a 68 that had the correct drums, spindles etc.. About a year ago I added the power brakes from a 72 donor (booster, MC and Saginaw box) I used the tie rod and drag link also.
This set up the potential for incompatibility between the tie rod/drag link from the 72 and the newer spindles from the 74. I found that if I removed a small amount of material from the castle nut (1/16") and elongated the hole in the tie rod/drag link a bit (1/16") that the cotter pin could still fit w/o having to swap out parts or grind down the spindle. I don't think that I compromised the strength of the nut too much, as so little material was removed.
Anyway thanks for all the great info!