I Need Some Seam Sealer and Drip Rail Help

[Subzero]

I attempted to fill in the drip rail with some sealant. I used this http://www.levineautoparts.com/transtar4172.html . I can say its not the best repair job I've done by any means. Its a little too tan for my likening so can I paint this with spray paint? I'm just going to spray a small amount in a tray and dap it on with a brush to not ruin the rest of the roof paint. Is there any way I can smooth the sealer out after it has dried? I have a few bumps sticking up in some places, I wasn't able to smooth everything out quick enough. Should I just remove all the seam sealer and start over with new different stuff? I don't have much money right now but if there's a way to fix the truck I want to do it the cheapest, best way possible. Would JB Weld be a good alternative to the seam sealer for the drip rail? I know I can get that smooth and look nice too but how will it hold up? I also have some Dap Gutter and Flashing seam sealer that I was going to use until last minute. I actually ran out of sealer at the very end so I'll need to buy more to finish the job.
Thanks

[jimmy828]

It can be sanded. When i applied it to my drip rail, i spread it out with my finger as good as i could but i had also made myself a little tool that was about 3/8 inch wide out of plastic and formed a radius on both ends to the shape of the drip rail. After spreading with my (wet) finger i went over it again with my homemade tool. worked really well. The next day i sanded starting with 80 grit and worked down to 320 grit. I know you said you did not want to damage existing paint but the use of masking tape should help with that. Good luck!

[Subzero]

Thanks for the input Jimmy. I did use a gloved finger to smooth out the sealer but that's a good idea with the tool. I had for the most part a smooth finish, just when I removed some of the protective tape that pulled up on all the edges. What sealant did you use on yours? If I can't get the sealer to look alright tomorrow, I'm going to order some new product and start over. Its not going to be fun if I have to remove the freshly applied sealer. The only thing that matters to me is that it is done right.

Edit : Are any of these sealants that would be good to use?

http://www.levineautoparts.com/3malautsealc.html
http://www.levineautoparts.com/trulsesectu.html

[jimmy828]

Thanks for the input Jimmy. I did use a gloved finger to smooth out the sealer but that's a good idea with the tool. I had for the most part a smooth finish, just when I removed some of the protective tape that pulled up on all the edges. What sealant did you use on yours? If I can't get the sealer to look alright tomorrow, I'm going to order some new product and start over. Its not going to be fun if I have to remove the freshly applied sealer. The only thing that matters to me is that it is done right.

Edit : Are any of these sealants that would be good to use?

http://www.levineautoparts.com/3malautsealc.html
http://www.levineautoparts.com/trulsesectu.html

It's been so long since i used the sealer i can't remember the brand. I got it at my local auto paint supplier. Around $12.00 for 9oz tube

[jamesingarage]

I used a product called 3M Fast N Firm 08505,it sets up hard like the factory stuff, light tan in color and a bit of a pain to work with, and as jimmy828 said a wet finger and a small plastic tool i made i was happy with the results, but mine was done before primer coat, Good luck with yours..

[72 f100]

I am working on my drip rail as well. The drip rail seems to be an area that collects and holds water quite a bit. I have read and seen several ways people removed the seam sealer in different areas. Some people used solvents to soften up the material and then pull it out. I am to afraid I am not going to get all the solvent out and its going to cause an issue down the road when I paint. On most areas I chose to wear a good dust mask and wire wheel it out. On the drip rail I was only able to get part of the seam sealer out using that technique. The shape of the drip rail only allowed the wire brush or wheel to get next to the roof and not next to the rail. The rail is actually where the pieces of metal come together. I wanted to make sure I got all the material out that I possibley could. I took a propane torch and lightly warmed the bottom of the drip rail and pulled up a starter section of seam sealer with a pick. Applying the heat softened the seam sealer up enuff for me to pull gently and remove it. I would not recommend over heating the seam sealer, Im not sure what the stuff is made of but im sure the fumes are not good to breathe. I was able to get all the seam sealer completely out in about 10 minutes. I have also thought about how to help prevent water from collecting in that area. I plan on trying to apply the seam sealer so that the water runs away from the center of the roof. In other words start out high in the middle and slope it towards the sides. Kind of like you would on a gutter on a house. I am not sure if it will work but I think its worth a shot.

[tac]

Cut a paint stir stick or cheap plastic spreader the same width as the drip rail and use it to spread it.

[sargentrs]

Good job and thanks for the tip! The stuff I used on my firewall lip was self levelling. It came out as a thick liquid and flowed to fill all areas. If you use something similar, you could slightly elevate the front of the cab and get what youre trying to do. You'd have to do the front, let it set up, then do the sides, a light layer all around. Then level it out and put a second level layer in.

[guhfluh]

Good job and thanks for the tip! The stuff I used on my firewall lip was self levelling. It came out as a thick liquid and flowed to fill all areas. If you use something similar, you could slightly elevate the front of the cab and get what youre trying to do. You'd have to do the front, let it set up, then do the sides, a light layer all around. Then level it out and put a second level layer in.

What did you use on the firewall seam? Mine needs to be redone and I'd like something that's black or grey, but I also want it to work well. My biggest problem is getting to it with the truck together and in driving condition.

[sargentrs]

I used this and it worked great http://m.summitracing.com/parts/smm-39387. Only problem is it takes some weird double barrelled caulking gun applicator. I bought it and stored it for 6 months before I used it and didn't discover it till then. I improvised with a regular caulking gun, a piece of flat bar and some duct tape. It took longer and was frustrating and nerve wracking because it sets up in about 20 mins. Great stuff but get the right applicator. Comes in a double plunger tube, black and white, with a mixing tip and sets up gray.