Bendix box vs. column shortening

[JimDog]

I just got done reading thru this article on adding power steering. Before I continue, let me give a bit of background.

I am restoring a 65 F-100. When i bought it, a previous owner had already upgraded to power steering by replacing the PS box and column with one from a newer truck. It works just fine and dandy. The problem that I have is that I really want to use the column from a 65. I found a column from a 65 in great condition, but as the article points out, it is too long.

The article goes on to explain that I basically have two options; shorten the column or go with a Bendix box. I would like to explore both options, and would appreciate your input.

On the bendix box, what exactly am I looking for? Does anyone know the part number, or where I might be able to find one? The article indicated that they are kinda pricey - anyone have a ball park price on what they are going for these days?

If I decide to shorten the column - do you know of any shops that might be able to do this for me? I must admit that I am scared that I'd goof it up, and that sucker was not easy to find. I would rather pay someone to do it for me CORRECTLY then risk the possibility of goofing up the one I have.

Any input on this would be greatly appreciated!

[bmerkley58]

The latest LMC catalog shows the Bendix steering box available rebuilt. The price is $349.95 with a $160.00 core charge.

Bob

[BigRedTruck]

dennis carpenter offers a rebuild kit, it list it for a 67 i think but it worked fine for my 69.

[BigRedTruck]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1965-196 ... 2003QQrdZ1 seems to be a complete bendix system

[mcarlson11]

If your truck has the newer column in it already, and you have a 65 column your set. Let me tell you how I did it, as I to have a 65 and just put power steering in.

Before I can tell you I need a litte more info. Is your truck auto or manual?

Is it column shift or floor shift?

[FORDification]

Actually the most important question is....how far does the column shaft extend past the end of the column housing? I've noticed that many (if not all) 4-speed column housings are already the proper length for a power steering setup, it's simply the shaft that needs replaced. If your column's shaft extends past the end of the housing by about 3 inches or so, then all you'd have to do to bolt in a Saginaw box power-steering setup is to swap out the shaft.

[JimDog]

Thanks for all of the responses.

The truck came from the factory with 352/4 speed. Somewhere along the line, someone swapped that for a 302/auto. That is what is in there now. Both the column that came with the truck and the 65 column that now have are set up for an auto.

The shaft on the 65 column extends about and inch or so past the column housing, so I don't think I am gunna get by with swapping out the shaft.

Here is a picture of the two columns. Don't know if it will be much help, because it is not the greatest picture, and because the angle of the shot does not show that the 65 column is about 3" longer then the other column.



Also - the saginaw box is already in there. and I can bolt that newer column in there right now and it would be ready to drive. In fact, I could probably bolt in the 65 column, too, but the steering wheel would be up under my chin

[FORDification]

Well, here's one idea, something to just look into....

My current '68 F100 parts truck was originally equipped with a 3-on-the-tree column and manual steering. A previous owner swapped in a T-18 and a Saginaw power steering setup. The interesting thing was, he still used the 3-spd column. What he did was simply to remove the lower bearing retainer off a PS-shaft and slide it in. The top of the shaft flange then acted as the bearing retainer.

Here's a picture comparing the ends of two columns. On the left is a stock 3-spd column with the clamp used to hold the lower bearing. On the right is a later column which uses the lock collar for the same purpose.



You MIGHT luck out by doing the same thing. Just removing the clamp (or lock collar) will allow you to swap in the PS shaft from the later column, with the top of the shaft flange now acting as the retainer. The only problem MIGHT be interference between the flange and the shift arm. However, if the length works out fine so that no shortening is necessary, it might also be possible to slightly rebend the shift arm to clear the flange.

Just a thought....worth looking into, anyway.

Otherwise, you'll just have to start making some phone calls and see if you can track down someone in your area who would be willing to tackle the actual shortening of the housing and shaft. I would think just about anyone competent with a welder could handle it.

[GT-Racer]

Just a thought. But did you take into consideration the dish in those steering wheels on you measurements??

It looks like the columns are the same but the red steering wheel is dished alot more than the other. Try laying them down side by side and see if the bottom of the steering wheels line up when the other ends are even.

Dont mean to sound silly but some people forget about little things like that. Just thought I check with ya.

[willowbilly3]

It looks like you can shorten the shaft on the red column. A simple job for any welding shop. I used the shaft with the lock colar like Keith's picture on the right. You will have to hack off the protrusion on the top of the shaft if it came from a column that had the later style steering wheel.
I have done a few of these conversions and always used the mast that came out of the truck and jusd used a shorter shaft. BUT, not all shafts will work in all columns within the 67-72 range so don't be dismayed if you end up with several junked out columns before it's over. I think I used parts from 3 or 4 on my last swap, but part of that was trying to find enough horn contacts and a workable turn signal switch.