Help asap proportioning valve issues

[bestneverrest1967]

yes i did and replaced it with a proportioning valve frome jegs its number is pv-71 i bled the lines everytime ive changed the brakes the rubber brake hoses are brand new the brakes are really hard to step on since the calipers seemed to be locked up im buy a new brake booster and replacing the already new master cylinder to see if this will solve my problem im at the end of the line with this truck

[forrestbump]

im at the end of the line with this truck

Whoa...slow down and take a deep breath partner, I hope this DOESN'T mean you're giving up does it?

There are many members here that have done the very thing you're doing now and have had great success.

Don't despair, it IS frustrating I know, but in the end you'll have a truck that most others can only dream of, but out of fear, lack of knowledge or the belief that "they just can't do it" never will.

Look beyond the immediate and see the future...you driving and stopping your Bump and getting all of those "Thumbs Ups" from all who see you living your dream.

Now as was already asked:

If, by chance, it's a drum/drum master cylinder, there's probably a check valve/residual pressure valve in the port to hold a bit of pressure in the lines. That would need to be removed for disc/drum use.

...is this true?

[70_F100]

im buy a new brake booster and replacing the already new master cylinder to see if this will solve my problem im at the end of the line with this truck

AHAAAAAAA!!!

Maybe you already mentioned that it has power brakes and I just missed it.

Try loosening the nuts that hold the master cylinder on and see if that releases the brakes.

There's a possibility that there is a mis-adjustment of the booster rod into the master or the rod from the pedal to the booster. Either of these could/would hold pressure on the master cylinder.

[whiteblur]

is this a F100 or F250? the F250 would have a seperate valve in addition to the distribution block . and requires a special tool to bleed the brakes with. i am unsure if the 67 F250 had disc brakes orignally. but i know the 68 F250 could have them. also the 73-79 disc brake proportioning valves require the use of the special tol to hold the little pin out while bleedign the brakes.

so if i re-bleed my brakes i have to have a tool to hold that pin on the front of the proportioning valve? I cant just bleed them?

[fordman]

yes the pin has to be held out on the F250 with the 68-72 dual brake valve thing. whatever it is called. it works the same way as the proportining valve pin. i dont know the exact procedure. there are instructions abou thow to do it. in one of the threads. but i cant remember which thread or what words to use as a search word either.

[whiteblur]

yes the pin has to be held out on the F250 with the 68-72 dual brake valve thing. whatever it is called. it works the same way as the proportining valve pin. i dont know the exact procedure. there are instructions abou thow to do it. in one of the threads. but i cant remember which thread or what words to use as a search word either.

how about on a f100? is this process needed?

[fordman]

any proportioning valve that has a pin. will need to be pulled out to bleed the brakes.

[bestneverrest1967]

update i bought the brake booster with all new master cylinder from a 78 ford but the factory holes would not match up. its a 2wd and i had to cut the firewall to even attempt to make it work,then to my surprise the booster was hitting sheet metal on the brake pedal assembly so long story short i chos to return it and get a master cylinder made for manual brakes with disc brakes up front the old master was one for a 67 still bought it new from autozone and im guessing could have made my brakes not work so im just hoping this new master cylinder will work if not im thinking it could be a problem with the pedal assembly or the old pushrod was having issues with the master cylinder

[fordman]

1967 truck are aone year only booster and master if manual brakes. the rod will be shorter than any other on any other truck. if tryign to use a booster from a 73-77 truck. you want one with a flat rod atleast 4 5/8 long. to reach the brake pedal. if it is longer no problem. drill a hole in the flat bar and bolt it up. 78 /79 booster wont work on our trucks.

[bestneverrest1967]

im not going to be using a brake booster im trying to use a master from a 75 ford manual with discs up front and drums in the rear

[fordman]

you might find out that the rear of the master on the 75 master may be deeper than the 67 rod is designed for.

[bestneverrest1967]

i order the master with a new rod so im hoping that it will work it comes in a couple of days it is the 75 rod i hope it works with my 67 brake pedal assembly