Radius arm bushing replacement?

[wolfpack]

Hey guys my 76 ford front end is making all kind of noises so i'm getting ready to replace both front end radius arm bushings is this a job for the weak of heart? I'm getting the parts monday from our local parts place and want to do it myself is there any saftey issues i need to know about this before i do it? i read the manual on it doesn't seem to bad maybe alot of cussing and stuff and throwing tools but that is the normal........Thanks Terry

[FORDification]

It's not really that hard of a job, depending on your skills and tool inventory. All you really need is a breaker bar and 1-1/8" socket to remove the nut on the end of the arm.

However, getting it slid out enough to remove/replace the front bushing takes a little work. I've heard that some people attach a come-along to the front suspension to pull it out enough for the radius arm to clear the frame bracket. Once the nut is removed, there should be enough flex in the rest of the suspension to allow you to do that without bending anything.

Others have found it easier to just drill out the rivets holding the bracket to the frame, replace the bushings, and then bolt the bracket back in.

When you have them in, torque the nut to 80-120 ft.lbs.

Good luck!

[Heavenlyfire]

I was playing around with raising my front end a while back. To be honest with you, I would go a liitle further and make it a lot easier. If you remove the coils and then the bolt that holds the arm on, the bushings are a piece of cake. Good luck to ya.

[flyboy2610]

When you get the bushings off, make sure the end of your radius rod is in good shape and not all corroded away, which seems to be pretty common with these trucks.

[wolfpack]

thanks guys, i should be getting my bushings today, i went in the other day and they only had one rubber in there so the parts guy had to call tech support to ask what was going on, it was just a glitch in the computer when they order because it use to be Napa, but our guys here in town bought it out and now it's there parts store so all is well in a small town...Terry

[cdeal28078]

I would go a step further. If the radius bushings are shot the I beam pivot bushings probably are. In fact, what are your king pins like?
I would unbolt the shock and the spring, unbolt both ends of the radius arm. Unbolt the I-beam pivot bolts and probably something else I am forgetting. Anyway, it would be a good time to replace everything in the front end that had a bushing.
If not, I changed mine by removing the rear bolt on the arm, lower shock mount and coil sping and all I had to do was pull forward on the I-beam pretty hard to get it out of the hole. Changed the bushings and rebuilt it.
clint

[fordman]

the last one i was involved with we used a bottle jack to jack the suspension forward enough to get the bushings on.

[NM5K]

I would go a step further. If the radius bushings are shot the I beam pivot bushings probably are. In fact, what are your king pins like?


Not a bad point. Myself, I'm not too crazy about
either the "come-along" method, or drilling out the
rivets and replacing with bolts. The reason I don't
much like the come along method is it really stresses
the heck out of the axle pivot bushing when you try
to force it forward. I used the come along methed on
the first one I ever did, and won't do it again. It
buggered up the pivot bushing so bad, I had to also
replace it. I'm not crazy about cutting the rivets,
and using #8 bolts cuz I just think it's kinda rinky
dink...I think the rivets are better, and bolts can work
loose, etc...I'd just rather not have to worry about
them..Ever... I agree. I think the easiest way is to just
pull the spring, etc, and pull the axle forward. This
was the intended method... It looks like a PIA to the
first timer, but it's really not near as hard as it looks.
I think it's easier than trying the other methods..
IE: cutting those rivets is a PIA job in itself, unless
you got the right tools.
I agree. I'd check the kingpins for excess wear, and
change all the bushings while you are at it. The
axle pivot bushings can be done at home with some
elbow grease and some *&^%$(*$@!, but it's easier
to find an auto machine shop and have them pressed
off and on. Ditto for kingpin bushings if you end up
needing those. One reason I suggest doing as much
as you can, or even all, is once you do, you'll most
likely never have to mess with it again. Well...Unless
you drive it another 100-200k...:/ Also, pulling the
springs/axles loose is a good excuse to do it all while
you are at it.. You can test the kingpins by rocking the
tire from the top/bottom with two hands, with it jacked up, and looking for any excess play. There will be a bit of give with the wheel bearing play, but you shouldn't see the kingpin wallow in the spindle much at all. You might end up only needing the radius arm
bushings, but I'm afraid if you use the come along to
pull it forward, you will also end up needing that axles
pivot bushing unless you get lucky. It takes a *lot* of
force to pull it far enough. I don't recommend that method at all any more. Better to just yank the spring, axle, etc.. It looks harder, but it's really
easier I think.
MK

[wolfpack]

yeah mk, a mechanic friend i know said the come along but i'm really not comfortable with that method , i'm just going to look it over a little more and just do it the right way and learn may use a few cuss words but in the long run i'll learn something....Terry

[Wes]

I Agree with those that are agianst cutting the rivits, The only time I would do so is when the rivit is loose then replace w/ aNEW grade 8 cap screw, flat wahsher (2) and a NEW metal lock nut. Torqued to 85 F pds. (loctight optional).
Also dropping the I beam is best you can get a good look at the bushings and won't destory them if they are good. When I do suppention work I try to replace all the fasteners I remove w/ new. But be careful some of the new hardware available at your local hardware is substanded even conterfit.
If you are going to reuse the old hardware wire brush the threads and use a little rust penitrent to make the job eaiser and save the threads.
Wes

[flyboy2610]

The nut on the end of the radius arm is castellated. Make sure to use a new cotter pin after torquing it down. It is not something you want coming loose on you.