SCORE!!! Dana 44 out of a 77 F150!!!

[Doug F]

Hey, just scored a D44 out of a 77 F150 and am going to rebuild it off my truck and dial in the disc brakes too, all for $275.



Anyone have a locker or 3.73 gear set they don't want?

[fordman]

i've got a dana 60 3.73 locker.

[Wes]

Grats that will be a nice up grade great price too.

[averagef250]

Yep, good price. Consider doing hydroboost at the same time if your up for a bit more of a brake upgrade.

[Doug F]

Thanks guys! Anyone know if the brake shields are needed or not? They are a bit "worked" but the axle is all complete.

I was looking at NPD's power booster kit, or just installing a MC that has a larger piston, such as a 1 1/16" or 1 1/4" if I can find one that works in a 67. I am not up to changing out the pedal assy, unless the 69 that I am going to help strip out has one

By the looks of MCs, why can't you just use the standard pedals and swap the push rod into another MC? I have never seen one up close or know how they work, so that's why I wonder this.

When I get to it, I will probably be installing the axle and my "new" cab at the same time, so I can set up the brake system off the chassis and then bolt it all together. Not to mention my looking into getting a 77 or so rear 9" so I can do the Explorer disc kit and get a wider rear stance too.

[fordman]

as far as master cylinders you should get the corrcet master cylinder for the brakes you are using. not for the truck. the correct booster or master rod. should match the pedals you have in your truck. the master isnt part of the booster or the rod. it is a sepreate item. so you can get the master you need without swapping pedal assemblies.

[Doug F]

as far as master cylinders you should get the corrcet master cylinder for the brakes you are using. not for the truck. the correct booster or master rod. should match the pedals you have in your truck. the master isnt part of the booster or the rod. it is a sepreate item. so you can get the master you need without swapping pedal assemblies.

So, since I am still new to all this upgrading, I can get a 76-77 MC and if I use the 67 rod and pedal assy, it will work? Do MCs typically have the same bolt pattern?

Why didn't Keith use the 67 pushrod with the 68-72 booster when he did this test at the bottom of http://www.fordification.com/tech/clutc ... ackets.htm? After reading this article, I am left going...

[fordman]

if you have manual brakes you will have a removeable rod that goes between the master cylinder and the brake pedal. if you have power brakes the rod is made into the brake booster. and it is not removeable from the booster. the 67 rod either made in the booster or by itself is shroter than the 68-77 rods. so you need the 67 only brake booster with the rod already made into it. or the 67 only brake pedal rod if you are using only the master cylinder and no power brakes. the master cylinder fo rthese trucks all have the same bolt pattern to mount them to a booster or to the firewall. if you want to run a booster you need one made for a 67 only. if you are upgrading to the discs and get the 67 booster you still need the disc brake master cylinder from the 77 trucks. if you are stayign with manual brakes then reuse your old manual brake push rod and the 77 master cylinder.

[Doug F]

Thanks man, that cleared the whole thing up. I appreciate it!

Yesterday I got the whole axle stripped down to just the gears remaining in the center, need to build a case spreader to pull those... The whole thing seems to be in great shape, the calipers still work, but I will just get rebuilt ones, as well as rotors and such.

Does anyone here feel that the rotor covers are needed? I can fix the ones I have, just wondering IF it is necessary to keep them.

What's a good price to have new U-joints pressed in? Ball joints on knuckle?

[fordman]

they do help keep stuff of of the discs. i would try to reuse them. or get good ones.

[hazelnut]

Also if you dont run a cover the rotors will warp, water splashing on hot rotors will warp them in no time.

[Doug Comer]

I never thought of that. Makes perfect sense.
Doug

[averagef250]

Also if you dont run a cover the rotors will warp, water splashing on hot rotors will warp them in no time.

You would need to have your rotors glowing orange and drive your truck into a body of water for that to happen. If they're good run them, if they're rusted junk toss them. The only problem with not running them is there's more tendency for small rocks to get jambed in your calipers.

When your rotors are really hot they're probably around 500-800 degrees in most driving. Think about a cast iron skillet for a minute. They're a lot thinner than brake rotors and generally last 100 years of everyday heat cool shock cycles without much issue.

The shields actually have extra vents in them to force cooling air against the rotors. Imagine if a little mud pudle on a 60 degree day splashed on your rotor. What would -70 degree air in Alaska do to the brake rotors on a truck that are 800 degrees after a hard stop? The answer- Nothing.

[fordman]

in my opinion if they arent warped and just rusty. appling the brakes will clean the rust off of them when you are driving. now there is a certain amount of rust that is too much that is for sure.

[Doug F]

Hi guys,

I am looking for an exploded view or list of parts for the 1977 F-150 Dana 44 front axle.

Also, my rear is a 3.70 9" and the D44 is a 3.50 (Not yet in the truck)

I have an NP435 4spd and am planning on upgrading to 32" or 33" tires and want the best ratio for all around driving. I NEVER tow and this will be my daily driver too, so some fuel economy is desired.

Should I keep the 3.70 rear and get a 3.73 for the D44 or should I pull the 3.70 and gear down to 3.50?

Thank you!

Doug