How do I fasten a tie-rod nut if its stud turns in the arm?

[robroy]

Good afternoon!

I'd like to attach the tie rod to my pitman arm, yet when I turn the nut, the arm's stud turns with it!

This began happening after I did some minor damage the threads on the stud, thus making the nut more difficult to thread on. I damaged the threads by foolishly driving the stud out of the pitman arm with a punch from above, instead of using a Pickle Fork to do the job properly.

1. Is this a common issue with these tie rod ends?
2. If the stud turns in the tie rod housing, does that mean something's broken, or is that its modus operandi?
3. What's the best way to get this nut tightened down?

Thanks very much for the excellent advice!
Robroy

[fordman]

i had this haapen when i took one off and it rusted the nut a little bit to the threads. i never did get it. but in your situation. take a pry bar between both of the pitman arm and the tie rod. and pry it down to create pressure so that maybe the stud won't turn. or use a impact on it.

[cep62]

If it has to go up, you can put pressure on with a floor jack.

[BobbyFord]

Press the tie rod end (with a prybar) up into the tapered hole AND use an air tool.

[robroy]

Good evening Fordman, Cep62, and Bobby, thanks for your excellent replies!

i had this haapen when i took one off and it rusted the nut a little bit to the threads. i never did get it.

Indeed, that sounds like the same type of situation!

but in your situation. take a pry bar between both of the pitman arm and the tie rod. and pry it down to create pressure so that maybe the stud won't turn. or use a impact on it.

Thanks for these excellent suggestions Fordman! I'll try 'em both.

If it has to go up, you can put pressure on with a floor jack.

That sounds like a smart idea! Oddly, I don't have access to a floor jack at the moment, but that is a great idea.

Press the tie rod end (with a prybar) up into the tapered hole AND use an air tool.

Okay, thanks Bobby!

I'll give this a whirl with the prybar and air tool tomorrow during the day, when I won't be bothering my neighbors with the compressor noise as much!

Fordman, Cep62, and Bobby, thanks for your fast, superb replies!
Robroy

[FreakysFords]

cep62 and BobbyFord nailed it.

Always try the pry bar up method first as 99% of the time, you don't need the extra force of the jack. (I often use the jack as a fulcrum just the same)

IF it takes more force than the pry bar allows you, I'd take a tri file (triangle file) to the effected threads and then try the pry bar again. If ya still can't get it, THEN try the jack with a wood block. . . . A little force and try, a little more and try, etc.

Something else to consider (though I doubt VERY seriously that this will come in to play on your truck in particular) is that clean metal binds to clean metal fairly easily (in this tapered environment). I have guys in the shop get all frustrated trying to get a tie rod end to "take", only to come behind them, pull it back apart, take brake cleaner to the "bolt" and "socket", so that it doesn't want to spin so easily.

As already stated, impact with a bump of the trigger is the way to go. If you want to torque it exact, just bump it enough to seat it and then grab the torque wrench (which I'll confess that I've never done, I just impact the nut on tight, till it's aligned for the cotter pin).

Still looking awesome man!

Actually eagerly awaiting your run time experiences in many aspects (March acc. drive kit and such). If I can't find pulleys in the junk yard (from non FE donors obviously) to convert to "serpentine", I'll likely be spending a heck of a lot on a march kit with a/c and p/s.

We need keyboard drool sensors to save some digital disaster here!
Frank

[70_F100]

Robroy, it's been pretty much hit on the nose here. To get the stud to quit turning, you have to put pressure on the rod so that the stud seats in the taper.

However, if it were me, I'd pull the tie rod back down and file the threads lightly, so that the nut threads on easily.

Forcing the nut on after the threads have been damaged can damage the nut. Since steering is such an important part of your vehicle, you don't want any damaged threads on the components. They are somewhat likely to strip and loosen, thereby allowing your steering to fail.

I've seen instances where the nut was forced on with no ramifications, but I've also seen failures due to this.

IMHO, I wouldn't take any chances. The small amount of work required to do it correctly is not worth the risk involved if you don't.

[convincor]

something i'll add is when taking it apart rather than a pickle fork which will destroy the boot just rap the pitman arm a few times with a 3lb hammer. The drag link will drop right out. (loosen the nut up first of course)

[70_F100]

something i'll add is when taking it apart rather than a pickle fork which will destroy the boot just rap the pitman arm a few times with a 3lb hammer. The drag link will drop right out. (loosen the nut up first of course)

And if it doesn't want to turn loose, use a little downward pressure with a pry bar!!

[cdeal28078]

something i'll add is when taking it apart rather than a pickle fork which will destroy the boot just rap the pitman arm a few times with a 3lb hammer. The drag link will drop right out. (loosen the nut up first of course)

You guys are good. I have never been good enough to hit a pitman arm and have the drag link drop out. I try it every time anyway though. I always have to resort to the tuning fork. If I have one spin when tightening and enough of the stud is showing out the top of the tapered hole I will use a box end wrench on the nut and a pair of vise grips on top of the stud just enough to pull the tapered fit up enough to hold itself. Or tap it up into the fit with a brass drift enough for the fit to hold it still while I tighten it
Clint

[convincor]

you just need to hit it hard enough.

[70_F100]

You probably wouldn't be able to do it with a small ball-peen hammer.

But if you get a BFH, it's going to work every time!!!

[FreakysFords]

cdeal28078

Sometimes I have to use a pry bar between the pitman and the link, then hit it, but it always works. I have a set of "pickle forks" that haven't been touched in years.

[Alvin in AZ]

I'd fix the threads. :)
I'd work at 'til the nut threaded by hand.
Just the way I do things because I only work on stuff I care about.
YMMV

Nutty Boy in AZ

[ForingaMex]

You probably wouldn't be able to do it with a small ball-peen hammer.

But if you get a BFH, it's going to work every time!!!

I never use anything bigger than a ballpeen hammer. Not one of the smallest of course. My brothers tought me many years ago how to do it. You need to hammers, one can be big but the one you actually hit with doesn't need to be big. Hold the big hammer tight against the pitman arm (or whatever you're trying to get tie-rod out of) on one side of the tie-rod and hit with the smaller hammer right on the opposite side of the eye that the tie-rod is in. One or a couple of nice solid hits has done it for me every time.