I have a 1969 F-250 4x4. It came stock with a master cylinder only, I want to add a new brake booster and a new master cylinder at the same time. A co-worker has a pair of boosters/cylinders with brackets. Both have differant brackets, One has a straight push rod going thru the firewal, The other has a pivot point and a rod that goes thru a plate before the firewall. Wich bracket do I need? Pictures below.
use the top one. that is the stock correct one for the 67-77 trucks. the other one can be used but you may have to redrill the brake pedal or the flat bar. which isnt a problem. i would use the top one though because of the exact useasage on our years of trucks. the other one probably came from a 73-79 truck. but may have came from heavier duty truck . i am not up that much on those types of brackets.
Thank you for the reply and the info. I have another question, how important is it to get the booster with the adjustable length pushrod? Also, the booster pictured was fairley rusty and missing the (check valve) I think thats what its called. Can they be rebuilt or should I just go with a new one? Thanks.
the adjustable rod is good. if you can get one. and it might be the thing to get anyway. missing the check valve isnt a big deal unless it has sat outside and got water in it. we cant rebuild them becasue we dont have the machine it takes to split it open and control the spring inside of it. plus i dont think they sell the diaphram for them to the public.
When I get the braket/manifold/booster installed should I plug the line into my carb or intake manifold? Both are aftermarket and the carb has a fitting for it and the manifold has a plug I can remove and install a fitting.
it goes to the manifold. you can remove the plug and put at in there to run your booster and other vaccums from it. or just a piece of stright pipe for only only vacuum line.
Ok, Well my friend from work gave me the booster/bracket and master cyclinder I need. I popped out the broken check valve and peeked inside the booster and it looks pretty clean inside despite the outside having surface rust. Is there a way to test the booster to see if it is good before installing on the truck. And is there a way to test the MC before installing on the truck? I am planning on giving this a shot so I dont have to pay for new parts. The rod from the booster is a fixed one so I was thinking about using it that way, or fabricating a adjustable rod out of that one, or can a adjustable rod be purcahsed and installed in the booster I have?
Also, one day I popped off the cover the the master cylinder I have on there now and the front resivour was completly empty of brake fluid and rusty. I cleaned it out and refilled it. Doe this indicate a leak in my rear wheel cylinders or lines?
what i did was to start up my 94 and i disconnected the vacuum line from that brake booster. i then hooked the test brake booster to the vacuum line. i then seen if it ran with the mis it had when i unhooked it fromt he truck. i then pushed the booster rod in and listened for hissing or more missing of the engine or if it was hard to push the booster.
on the master cylinder fill it with fluid and see if it squirt out fluid. that is probably the only way to bench test it. but that may not say that it is good. only that it works. but it may not push any pressure when hooked up.