Help with brake upgrade

[oldblue]

trying to install a booster on my 72 with drums.
I have the master cylinder unbolted and trying to pull out the push rod.
for the life of me it will not pull out is there a snap ring or something that I cant see that is holding it in?
is there a trick?

[fordman]

the non power brake master cylinder rod does have a small clip on the end of it. it is sometimes hard to pull out. i really dont have any real advise on how to do it. if the master is still botled to the firewall maybe take a bar and put in the eyelet of the rod and pry it out of the back of the master.

[flyboy2610]

the non power brake master cylinder rod does have a small clip on the end of it. it is sometimes hard to pull out. i really dont have any real advise on how to do it. if the master is still botled to the firewall maybe take a bar and put in the eyelet of the rod and pry it out of the back of the master.

That would be my suggestion. You really need to use some muscle on those things sometimes.

[oldblue]

I got pissed and put it in a vice and put a tire iron though the eye and broke off a mounting ear.
so I got a reman for 15.99.
I should of just got one in the beginning.
after working on something for over an hour finesse goes out the window.
I bled it out at the master and it seems to work fine but I noticed that my light over the e-brake is on.
is that the brake warning light?
I will bleed out all the brakes when my buddy comes by tomorrow anyway I have a gallon of dot 4 someone gave me.

[hazelnut]

The light over the e brake is a warning light letting you know that the piston in the proporton valve is off to one side or basically that you need to bleed the brakes.

[oldblue]

i have bled the hell out of them and the light is not going off.
what the hell!
i have never had a problem like this?

[fordman]

the valve has to be centered. it is hard to do from what i heard. i have never done it. but it tells you that the brake pressure to each wheel is equal is what i t does. so when you bleed it each time you have to stop and look to see which wheel bleed made it go off.

[oldblue]

I got it!
i got in the truck and jamed on the pedal as fast and as hard as i could twice and the light went out.
i suction bled the bakes and had my wife do a coupple of pumps to make sure.
without the truck running.
i think it must not of had enough presure applyed to the valve to center it.

thanks for the help!

[fordman]

sometimes thats all it takes too. that what my truck did a few years ago.

[Mach428]

The Ford light differs from the GM insofar as the GM has a spring that centers the piston in the switch - Ford does not. So whenever you do brake work that involves bleeding the system, the piston moves off-center and activates the light. It's really very easy to solve.

You have a helper loosen the bleeder on the rear, then push the pedal all the way down and then tighten the bleeder. Have your helper go to the front and loosen a bleeder. Then VERY slowly begin depressing the pedal with the ignition switch on (engine off) This is gradually moving the piston back toward center. When the light goes out, STOP your foot where it's at and have your helper tighten the bleeder.

The piston is centered; the light is off; and it's Miller time!