Brake booster

[OldRedFord]

I want to replace my brake booster. I had bought a new master cylinder already.
Will it matter if the booster has the adjustable or non adjustable push rod?

The brake booster that is on the truck currently....when I got the truck, the rod was missing.

[70_F100]

The CORRECT booster has an adjustable push rod.

If you get one for a 73-up, most of them do NOT have an adjustable push rod.

Either will work, just be sure to get all of the mounting brackets, and for the later models, get all of the linkage and the brake pedal from the donor truck.

Here's some GREAT information: http://www.fordification.com/clutch-brake-brackets.htm

[fordman]

adjustable is best. but they dotn give that much just buy the one for your year of truck and engine size if getting it from the parts store.

[70_F100]

Didn't read all of your first post.

If the booster is missing, your easiest route is to just find a donor truck and remove the whole booster assembly, along with the brake pedal and linkage. Rebuilt boosters will NOT come with the entire push rod assembly.

Your master cylinder will, most likely, bolt right up to any of the boosters.

My 70 F100 came without power brakes. First, I bought a used booster that was correct for the truck. That one went bad, and I replaced it with one from a 77 F150. I have used the same master cylinder with all three arrangements.

[fordman]

i thought the booster rods were made to the diaphrams ont he boosters. or werent replaceable. i dint know that. so in theory you could use any booster on a 67 if you got the correct length 67 booster to pedal rod?

[70_F100]

Not exactly.

You are correct, the booster push rod is attached inside the booster.

Whatever booster you use, you need the mounting brackets and linkage or push rod (refer to the link in my earlier post).

In 74, Ford lowered the brake pedal on trucks equipped with power brakes so that they were more like the other manufacturers, just slightly above the accelerator pedal.

You will hear different stories as to how they accomplished this, i.e, different pedal design, etc.

When I swapped in the one from a 77 into my truck, what I found was that the linkage was much shorter than the original '70 model booster. Everything hooked up just fine, except that the brake pedal, as described, was much closer to the floor. The only problem I encountered was that the brake light switch no longer had anything to depress it. I took a piece of steel, about 1" x 2" x 3/4", bent it to 90 degrees, drilled and tapped it and bolted it to the steering column support so that the switch would contact it when the brake pedal is released.

Like I said, I've used the same master cylinder for manual brakes, power brakes with a '70 model booster, and power brakes with a '77 model booster. Never had a single problem.

[fordman]

yea the master is matches to the brake bore sizes and or calipers on a disc truck. the booster has no affect on the use of a master cylinder.

[70_F100]

Most of the parts manuals list a different master cylinder for manual vs. power brakes.

My guess is that the different number may be because they always provide a new push rod for manual brakes.

[fordman]

i wonder if it is because of the adapter for the line sizes that may make a difference. some trucks brake lines screw right into the master. and other have large ends on the lines and have to use adapters to make those line nuts fit. i dont know im guessing.

[70_F100]

I am too.

But, from what I've seen, power vs. manual usually have the same size lines on any given model. Disc vs. drums is a different story.

[fordman]

i meant the nuts. if i said lines it was because i wasnt paying attention to what i wrote. i was getting the afternoon sleepies.

[Johnson]

I am in the process of do this right now. The part should be in tomorrow. I just bought the booster and master cylinder combo from a local parts store. That one should work right???????

My big question is where should I hook that vacuum hose to run the brakes? I have a stock 1970 2wd with a 302.

[fordman]

the vacuum will come directly from the intake vacuum tree. if you dotn have one or a big enough one. you can remove a plug from the intake if i thas one and ptu a piece of pipe in there to hook the line to. or get a correct vacuum tree to put on there. the one on the left came off of a 78 302. the large hole at top had the bosster hose hooked to it.

[Johnson]

The one on the right looks like what I have on mine.

Thanks for the help!

[fordman]

the one on the right is a ported vacuum swithc and has only to do with emissions. it wont give you brak booster vacuum at all. the vacuum runs from the carb to that switch and then out to the dist.