I need a close up photo of how the throttle linkages/trapeze goes together as well as where the ground strap connects on an FE.
Also, I am running an edelbrock intake with a spacer. Where would you suggest I find a vacuum source for the PCV valve? It was on the back of the original carb spacer. I do not want to reuse the original carb spacer because it had coolant running through it.
Thanks in advance, Mark
2015 lifted Toyota tundra 4.6 4wd
2002 Toyota Sequoia 2wd 4.7 auto
1989 Ford F150
1979 Chevrolet C10 350/TH400 14 bolt "Big 10" (DD)
1972 F100 parts truck long bed
1971 F100 2WD LWB 302 aod 3.70 9inch PS pb
1966 International Scout 800
1954 GMC rat rod project Scout frame, inline 6, T90 4X4
1953 Chevrolet Tin Woody
1946 Hudson BigBoy Pickup-ratrod project
You can still use the carb spacer for the PCV...just don't hook up the coolant lines to it. Otherwise, you'll have to find a carb with the required nipple built into the carb base.
____| \__
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special My '67 restoration video -> Posting and you!<-a MUST watch for all!!
have you guys ever noticed on some of those trapese stabilizer rods that hook to the cab . that there is a piece of rubber hose on some of them? maybe to help the kickdown rod from rubbing the rod and wearing through i don't know.
fordman wrote:have you guys ever noticed on some of those trapese stabilizer rods that hook to the cab . that there is a piece of rubber hose on some of them? maybe to help the kickdown rod from rubbing the rod and wearing through i don't know.
When this style of throttle linkage came out, Ford started getting complaints of engine noise in the cab. They finally traced it that throttle linkage stabilizer rod, which transmitted engine vibration/noise to the firewall which in turn reverberated inside the cab. They issued a TSB article recommending installing rubber line on that stabilizer rod that extends to the firewall, to dampen the noise.
I'll try to find that TSB article and post it.
____| \__
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special My '67 restoration video -> Posting and you!<-a MUST watch for all!!
Thanks for all the info guys! So is there a difference for a 4 speed truck? I am missing some pieces for sure, but it appears I have a trapeze that has the place to hookup the transmission kickdown. I would like to have the correct one or at least try to simplify the assembly. Does anyone have a picture of one on a manual transmission truck?
Also, if anyone has a complete assembly they want to get rid of, please let me know. Thanks
2015 lifted Toyota tundra 4.6 4wd
2002 Toyota Sequoia 2wd 4.7 auto
1989 Ford F150
1979 Chevrolet C10 350/TH400 14 bolt "Big 10" (DD)
1972 F100 parts truck long bed
1971 F100 2WD LWB 302 aod 3.70 9inch PS pb
1966 International Scout 800
1954 GMC rat rod project Scout frame, inline 6, T90 4X4
1953 Chevrolet Tin Woody
1946 Hudson BigBoy Pickup-ratrod project
Unless you're trying to keep everything period-correct, rather than trying to piece together something that really didn't work the best in the first place, why don't you just toss it, and get yourself a '73-up straight rod, which goes from the gas pedal linkage to the carb? It would make things much easier and cleaner-looking IMO.
____| \__
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special My '67 restoration video -> Posting and you!<-a MUST watch for all!!
First. SCREW period correct 2ND. protect period correct. To clarify simplicity is BOSS, BUT to retain historical correctness and value keep the original parts maybe even cleanem up and storem away I will probly do like your suggestng with the straight rod Keith,But at the same time keep all the original parts and clean them then have them powder coated black or Silver which ever. one other variation on this question what would I need to adapt our throttle linkage to a holley 2300 Series 500CFM 2 Barrel????
FORDification wrote:Unless you're trying to keep everything period-correct, rather than trying to piece together something that really didn't work the best in the first place, why don't you just toss it, and get yourself a '73-up straight rod, which goes from the gas pedal linkage to the carb? It would make things much easier and cleaner-looking IMO.
thats a great idea. i had thought about that for my 68 but never asked to see if it would have worked. don't matter now sold that truck.
1971 Sport Custom SWB: 360/C6 3.00
1965 Ford Falcon 4Dr: Inline 170 3sp
Hell Yeah Keith. You da man! That is exactly what I will do. Period correctness is not a problem since I have a 65 390 from a galaxie in a 71 F100!
2015 lifted Toyota tundra 4.6 4wd
2002 Toyota Sequoia 2wd 4.7 auto
1989 Ford F150
1979 Chevrolet C10 350/TH400 14 bolt "Big 10" (DD)
1972 F100 parts truck long bed
1971 F100 2WD LWB 302 aod 3.70 9inch PS pb
1966 International Scout 800
1954 GMC rat rod project Scout frame, inline 6, T90 4X4
1953 Chevrolet Tin Woody
1946 Hudson BigBoy Pickup-ratrod project
2015 lifted Toyota tundra 4.6 4wd
2002 Toyota Sequoia 2wd 4.7 auto
1989 Ford F150
1979 Chevrolet C10 350/TH400 14 bolt "Big 10" (DD)
1972 F100 parts truck long bed
1971 F100 2WD LWB 302 aod 3.70 9inch PS pb
1966 International Scout 800
1954 GMC rat rod project Scout frame, inline 6, T90 4X4
1953 Chevrolet Tin Woody
1946 Hudson BigBoy Pickup-ratrod project
Hit a few salvage yards. As Keith said 73 up used them. Well 73 thru 77 actually. 78 and 79 used a short cable between the pedal and carb. You might want to grab the gas pedal out of the later truck also. The part of the pedal that is under the hood is about 1" longer on the 73 - 77 trucks. This can be a big help if you're using a high rise style manifold as it keeps the rod level verses running at an uphill angle. Under hard acceleration the engine's tendency to torque over to the right side combined with the bad angle can pull the throttle plates past the wide open position. While I've never heard of a throttle sticking due to this it doesn't help the life of the carb.