Master cylinder swapability question ????

[FLATBEDFORD]

Kap,
Don't forget that with your F250, you don't have to switch the spindles. The caliper brackets will bolt on to the spindles using the same bolt holes that the drum brake backing plates use. The hub/rotor assembly goes on your existing spindle. It even uses the same inner bearing. The outer bearing has the same inside diameter, but is larger outside diameter. The F100 requires that you change the spindles, not F250/350.
Have a look here;
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... disc+brake

[kaptnkaos]

Hey FBF,

Thanks for that link... no, I wasn't aware of that...
That sounds like it would make the swap a lot easier...
I do wanna do the king pins at the same time...
I understand that it's much easier to have them pressed out, but do they need to be pressed in? Or is that something I can do myself?
The reason I ask, is that I can't even lift the i-beam unit whole, (with the spring, spindle and caliper attached).
I can't imagine trying to lift it and put the bolts in at the same time...
There has to be an easier way to do that...

KaptnKA S

[FLATBEDFORD]

You can lighten it up by removing the spring, caliper, hub, and rotor.

[Banjo]

Hey FBF,

Thanks for that link... no, I wasn't aware of that...
That sounds like it would make the swap a lot easier...
I do wanna do the king pins at the same time...
I understand that it's much easier to have them pressed out, but do they need to be pressed in? Or is that something I can do myself?
The reason I ask, is that I can't even lift the i-beam unit whole, (with the spring, spindle and caliper attached).
I can't imagine trying to lift it and put the bolts in at the same time...
There has to be an easier way to do that...

KaptnKA S

You have to use floorjack underneath it to lift them. You can push the kingpins in by hand if the bronze bushing bores are honed well enough by the machine shop. Just make sure you use some thin oil or something on them. You can drive the kingpins out with a 4 pound hammer and a brass punch (they sell a set at Harbor Freight for about $12 for pair of them I think). You might give it a shot to drive them out by hand, I had one come out within 20 minutes, the other about 12 hours of various beating/soaking sessions. I was determined not to farm out any more work on my truck than I had to just being stubborn. Don't forget, you have the little cross bolts that holds the kingpin in place that is kinda hard to see if covered with junk and you must remove the nut and drive those out w/punch before you monkey w/trying to get kingpins out. If you really want to try to hammer them out yourself, do yourself a favor and keep squirting them down wtth purple power, I think that helped more than anything (unless you have a REAL torch, little propane bottle torch doesn't help much). That Purple Power will dissolve the old congealed grease. Can you tell I'm sold on Purple Power? Banjo.

[Banjo]

I just remembered I might have had to lightly tap in my new kingpins, but it wasn't real hard.

[kaptnkaos]

I hear ya Banjo...

I like Purple Power too... next time I have reload my parts washer, I'm gonna go with it instead of solvent..
It's about the same cost...

I'm not sure about beatin' those things out myself, as much as I hate layin' out money like that, but I have a back injury that limits my doin' things like that.
That's why I wanna take the I-beams with the spindles attached from the '71 CS and get it all done at the same time.
I also wanna rebuild the calipers and pads so it is all like new before installing them on the '68 CS...
I have had my truck for 21 years... I want it to last me another 20+ and be my last truck.
I'd rather do whatever I need to do on this one instead of getting a newer one and have to go thru it anyway.

KaptnKA S

[Thunderfoot]

I think I would check on that Master cyl. application. It doesn't seem like anything interchanges on the juice side, between the single piston and dual, rotors are different for sure and I think the pistons would displace differently, hence a different mc. The part store should ask.

That's what I'm thinking. Even though it may bolt up to the booster OK, there may be different pressure and volume requirements for the different calipers. I'd like to use the a new '77 MC, my current '70 booster, and new '77 calipers. Maybe I should spend the extra few bux and go with the newer booster too, but then don't I run into issues with the rod from the pedal to the booster?

Correct! the MC are different for the dual piston calipers. http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList ... r+Cylinder The booster seams to be different as well, looking at the Part America web site for a 78 F250 they show different part numbers if it is single or dual calipers. http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList ... Brake+Unit

[fordman]

the 78 and up boosters aren't a direct bolt in for our trucks. the brake pedal linkage is different on them.

[Hawkrod]

the 78 and up boosters aren't a direct bolt in for our trucks. the brake pedal linkage is different on them.

That is not quite correct, some are direct bolt in and some others are not. The change was actually in 77 and in the 77-79 time frame Ford used a huge number of different boosters and brake pedals. Why they made so many different ones I do not know but most F250 dual diaphragm boosters will bolt in but the F100 and F350 stuff never seems to based on my experience (just my luck! LOL). There were 8 different brake pedals for 77 to 79 F100-F350 trucks based on what style brakes or booster they had or if they had cruise control! From 73-76 there were four pedals, two with cruise and two without. The 8 different 77-79 pedals include the 4 earlier ones as they kept using them on some applications. Hawkrod