flip the axel

[Johnm]

i wanna lower the back of my truck, how are is it to flip the axel.

[td]

Johnm,

if your running the stock front i-beam front suspension, flipping the rear will achieve more drop than the i-beams are capable of giving you. you can get a significant amount of drop (4-5''s) by flipping the front spring hanger upside down.

here's a pic of mine after the flip.

[Johnm]

that sounds perfect, anything i should know before starting?

[td]

that sounds perfect, anything i should know before starting?

johnm,

you'll have to grind out the stock rivets (laborsum)or torch them if your equipped to, and when you go back together you'll need to use grade 8 hardware. you'll use two of the existing rivet wholes and drill the other two. its also a good idea to remove a little material off the bottom of the hangers witch will be the top when you get them flipped over, this will give you a little more clearance between the bed floor and the hanger and keep you from having any vibration issues. you' will also have to add some shims to your leaf pack to compensate for the pinion angel the hanger flip will create. when i flipped mine i also removed one leaf to give a little more drop and it required me to add 6 degree's of shim (a 4 degree and a 2 degree) to correct mine and eliminate any drive line vibrations.

[Johnm]

what did u use for the shims?

[td]

what did u use for the shims?

you can order'em from summit racing, they'll come with longer bolts to hold the spring pack together to.

[Johnm]

do you know what the stock pinion angle is for a 69 f250?

[td]

do you know what the stock pinion angle is for a 69 f250?

johnm,

i didn't even know what my f100 stock pinion angel was, i just added shims until all the vibration was gone in the drivline

[stockr]

is it a must to grind or cut of a lil piece of the hanger??
what dimension do you have from the bottom of the bed and the top of the hanger (after its fliped)

this sounds very interesting

that sounds perfect, anything i should know before starting?

johnm,

you'll have to grind out the stock rivets (laborsum)or torch them if your equipped to, and when you go back together you'll need to use grade 8 hardware. you'll use two of the existing rivet wholes and drill the other two. its also a good idea to remove a little material off the bottom of the hangers witch will be the top when you get them flipped over, this will give you a little more clearance between the bed floor and the hanger and keep you from having any vibration issues. you' will also have to add some shims to your leaf pack to compensate for the pinion angel the hanger flip will create. when i flipped mine i also removed one leaf to give a little more drop and it required me to add 6 degree's of shim (a 4 degree and a 2 degree) to correct mine and eliminate any drive line vibrations.

[td]

[quote="stockr"]is it a must to grind or cut of a lil piece of the hanger??
what dimension do you have from the bottom of the bed and the top of the hanger (after its fliped)

this sounds very interesting [quote]


its a good idea to, a angel grinder will make short work of it. you only need to grind off the part thats folded up towards the bed floor. the bed and hanger move together in relation to each other, so its not like the bed is gonna come down and hit it. but without removing a little material off the hanger one side on mine did have a small vibration in it from the isolation of the bed floor i imagine. it may have been the exhaust drone from the 2.5 inch pipe and the flowmasters that caused the vibration but when i identified that it was coming from the hanger and bed floor getting together i did the grinding and the noise was gone

[stockr]

sounds like a plan td..
might i add that is a great idea...this will save me some money...
thanks

[td]

sounds like a plan td..
might i add that is a great idea...this will save me some money...
thanks

i deserve no credit on this one stockr, i learned about it from tutorial here on the site