Anther disc brake conversion question...

[JWW]

OK, based on this post, I feel comfortable using my radius arms from my 67' for my disc brake converision. I'll use the 75' Ibeams, kingpins, and spindles:

http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... hp?t=29929

However, my other question is...

If I change out the pitman arm on my 67' with the one I have for my saginaw box, can I use my 67' tie rod and drag link instead of the one from the 75'?

Edit: I found this picture and notation in one of the tutorials:



"Here's a view of the differences between the stock '67-'72 vs. '73-'79 tie rod ends, where they connect to the spindle's steering arm. This is due to the later spindle's steering arm being thicker. Therefore, early steering linkage cannot be used with later disc-brake spindles without some grinding on the spindle's steering arm to allow the tie rod end to protrude through enough to install the castle nut and cotter pin."

Has anyone tried this? I'm trying to avoid buying a new drag link. I don't think the one of the 75' is repairable.

[67mann]

Did you try your old linkage---to see if the tie rod ends would fit up in the spindles?--The 76 drag link I used went right in the pitman arm(68 power steering) without doing anything. There was something in that tutorial about the drag links See if this helps ya
http://www.fordification.com/str-susp_variations.htm

[Banjo]

I'm guessing you've already dropped $ on '75 parts? While my memory comes and goes frequently, on my '68 I searched out a 74 donor and things went smooth all the way around. I think there was some changover in '75 that will get you into changing more stuff, you'd have to research alot on the tutorials here to figure it out, but I didn't have to fool w/changing pitman arm or steering box or any of that. Used my stock 68 radius arms, used the '74 axles and spindles, new chinese rotors & rebuilt calipers from Oreilly, new bushings/kingpin kit from Oreillys (bronze liner kit). Only thing I hired machine shop to do was ream the bronze king pin liners and press in the axle pivot bushings. Same deal w/brake hoses/bearings/etc, all from Oreillys'. Same for drag link, etc. It may be more trouble to locate a '74, but it kept me out of additional work. Banjo.

[Banjo]

Wait a minute, my memory just faded back, I do recall I had to have the 74 spindles turned down a small amount at a machine shop to enable the end links to bolt up, I'd forgotten that part. Was a simple milling procedure. Probably could have done wiith grinder, but wanted it to be nice and flat and precise, that did cost $30 or 40, can't recall, banjo.

[Banjo]

While I'm correcting myself over and over I have to say while you are at it replace everything you can. Rebuilding front ends isn't fun and I think the majority of improvement, as mine stops no better w/discs than it did w/drums, was due to replacing the drag link. If you take your drag link off and compared it to a new one you'd see what I mean. A new one is so stiff you have to work very hard to move the little ball in the end, a used one is easy to move. My drag link was so worn out I could hold it out and shake it and it'd rattle, which is why my truck was nicknamed "Otis...the drunk truck", as it would swap lanes at will on you with no warning. After it did that on a bridge (thankfully I was alone), I decided I'd never drive in fear again and tore it all down. Having been through it, I can say I don't think my kingpins really needed replacing, I don't think I really needed discs, but I think I really needed a new drag link, BUT you might as well do it all while you are there. It's a lot of hard work, especially if you drive the kingpins out by hand with a 4 pound hammer as I did (both sets the old and the disc ones). Plus it's hard to do it alone (on dirt as I did), getting things back together took couple floorjacks on plywood. Drag links can't be repaired, have to buy new one.

[JWW]

Thanks guys. I will probably go to the local Pull a Part and get me a drag link off a donor. I believe that will be the easiest.