Steering input shaft advice
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- Batchainpuller
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Steering input shaft advice
I probably already know the answer to this, but hear me out... My steering's been kinda funny lately so I finally check it out. lo and behold the bottom steering bearing has exploded and the input shaft is riding on the bearing holder. I located a column and have almost everything to make the fix, but the coupling end of the shaft is different ('69) and my old one has a nice groove ( maybe the thickness of a dime at its deepest) worn in it right about where the plastic bearing bushing rides. So my questions are: Anybody have a 70-72 shaft they wanna swap for a decent pre-70? Can the ends be pressed off and swapped at a machine shop? And the biggie (and probably dumb one) Can I use JB Weld to build that area back up since it'll be riding in plastic anyway? I want to get back on the road asap, but I only wanna do this once and not worry about structural integrity, i.e. turning the wheel and nothing happening someday! Oh yeah I'm talking about '70 F250 man steering, 4spd man, drum brakes. Pulled '69 column from same.
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the usual repair for the worn part in the shaft is to weld it and have it turned back to the original size it just a groove. the weld wont take much to fill it. or you could even grind it back down to match the size of the shaft. this has been the way its been done for years. i do have a shaft if you want it. i dont need another shaft to replace it with though. i have a 67-69 or a 70-72 shaft. manual steering.
- Batchainpuller
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re: Steering input shaft advice
Thanks for the reply Fordman, even though I didn't search for the existing thread. Your's was an idea I had but didn't think to add to my post. My shaft doesn't look nearly as bad as the one on the other thread. Thoughts on the JB weld method?
- sargentrs
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re: Steering input shaft advice
Got a replacement shaft for mine from another member then a friend of mine did the weld and grind thing on my old one. Looks like brand new.
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
- jzjames
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Re: Steering input shaft advice
You can repair your shaft by simply cleaning out that groove, filling with some JB Weld, and faring it smooth so the plastic grommet (bearing bushing) will slide over it. With all the correct bearing parts re-installed that part of the shaft is floating, and its just like new, right???Batchainpuller wrote: my old one has a nice groove ( maybe the thickness of a dime at its deepest) worn in it right about where the plastic bearing bushing rides.
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i guess it could work. but i have never got jb wled to ever work on anything i have tried to use it on. i ahve been told you can fill a hole with the stuff and redrill and thread it like new. but it didnt work for me. it also has never held broken metal together for me either. that story about the hole in the engine block i find could be right because it is just sealing a hole . its not on a stress point of any kind. so it could work for your use.
- Batchainpuller
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re: Steering input shaft advice
That's the info I was looking for. JB Weld is definitely not all it's cracked (har har har) up to be, but this application seems appropriate if there's no stress invoved. I'm trying to get back on the road safely and quickly. That said, I still haven't ordered the other stuff I don't have to search for so, Fordman, how much would you want for the 70-72 shaft? And James, you should make friends with a screen printer and make t-shirts with the drawing in your gallery! I'd buy one.its not on a stress point of any kind. so it could work for your use.
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- Batchainpuller
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re: Steering input shaft advice
Thanks. I guess I'll go the JB route and see what happens as most of the junkyards here seem to think they have the last bump on earth when it comes time to pay. If I gotta do the job twice, I gotta do the job twice.
- sargentrs
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re: Steering input shaft advice
PM sent
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
- jzjames
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re: Steering input shaft advice
when you use the JB Weld on the groove in your column shaft, just clean it out real good and the filler will adhere just fine. You just bring the shape back to cylindrical because the bearing bushing does sit over that area like you said, and you want it supported perfectly. I did this job to mine and it worked. I cleaned with solvent like laquer thinner, then washed with water/ detergent, rinsed, dried completely,(hair drier?), and then put on my serious magnifying specs, and roughed up the repair area with emery cloth, file, whatever, then just mix the filler and apply with a toothpick or something, filling completely, let it cure overnight and file off the buildup to restore the cylinrical shape. Slap the column back together with fresh bearings. Its a neat fix.