Need some torque specs....

[Darrman]

I am finally after months of cleaning and painting, putting the front end of the truck back together.
However I need some torque numbers, the book I have is useless, says find a dealer for everything. Here is a list of what I need:
Axle pivot bolt
Axle to raduis arm bolt, need the lower nut spec and the upper nut spec, the upper that hold the coil on.
Upper coil retainer bolts, that just hold the coil at the top.
All four bolts that hold the brake drum back plate on, of which two hold the steering knuckle on as well.
Thanks for any help!

[Banjo]

just went through 68 front end rebuild and disc conversion, I didn't really use alot of measuring after researching alot. As it was either hard to get torque wrench on many, I used the 1 hand versus 2 hand and 3/8 versus 1/2 method. For example, the upper coil spring strap that holds coil spring in place, I used 1 hand and 3/8" ratchet, so probably cranked those to about 25 foot pounds. For axle pivot bolts, 2 hands with 1/2" ratchet not bearing all the way down, so that might be around 60 foot pounds. For lower nut under coil spring lower mount, very tight, again 2 hands and 1/2" ratchet as tight as I could go. Same for the nut on top of the lower coil holding bracket (the one inside the coil spring), but it's hard to get on it good and bear down. On the radius nut under cab, as tight as you can get with 2 strong arms and 1/2 ratchet and then go to longer breaker bar and keep going! Watch out for your cotter pin holes that'll help, but these are bears. You have to really crank HARD! I bet I got these up to around 130-140 foot pounds easy before the cotter pin hole would line up right.
Beware you do not put your axle pivot bolts in backwards, the heads go toward inside so that bolts point away from each ibeam not towards each other. I used anti-seize on all mine. I used some silicone lube on the radius arm bushings that go through body mount. On the bolts that held your drum plate, I've only taken off (disc conversion), but they're pretty dang tight, I'd figure 1/2" ratchet cranked pretty good (probably around 60 foot pounds).

[Banjo]

Oh, and you can find larger grade 8 fasteners and new nuts/washers all in grade 8 at Tractor Supply if that helps any. I replaced all the fasteners I could. I think the axle pivot bolt nuts might be 1 time use only (supposedly), you can probably run a search on this cite and find that recommendation.
I'm not knocking your drums, but if you've cleaned and painted and put in all new bushings/kingpins/tierods/draglink and such, a disc conversion isn't too much more work and alot are real happy with a stock disc setup. But, I realize you might be wanting to keep it stock and I'm not trying to be insulting. Also, it kinda helped me to leave all nuts kinda loose and to work with 2 floorjacks to get things right before full tightening, as I work alone.

[Darrman]

I did and am still considering the disk swap, but later on, after the truck is drivable again. I got lucky with the kingpins, they had been replaced before the truck was parked, little grease and they are as good as new, zero play in em.
I torqued the plates to 50lbs, need to crankem just a little more to get the pins in. I see what you are saying on the axle pivots. Right now I am working on getting the axle to radius bolt torqued, My explorer took a massive 220lbs to get it right, found out the hard way with it, didnt get it tight and had to listen to a horrible clunk everytime I changed directions.

[jor]

Here is the torque spec page from my 67 shop manual. Send me a PM if you need this in higher resolution and I'll mail it to you.
jor

[Darrman]

Perfect, thanks a million. I need to get one of those books myself. Looks like I going to have to go buy a cheater pipe to get that 180 to 220.

[Darrman]

Does it list thetorque for the axle pivot bolt?