How to work on drum brakes for dummies.

[dolinick]

I want to replace the wheel cylinder on the rear
passenger side of my '71 F1oo. I don't have any
idea of what I'm doing. I don't know if I even have
the right tools. Do you need any special tools?

Dan

[dolinick]

I managed to get the whole thing apart.
I think I got it all back together except for
three pieces. They go on the bottom.
The automatic adjuster thingy with little
bracket and spring. I think I'll just take off
the driver's side wheel and drum and take a look.

Dan

[kaptnkaos]

Hey dolinick...

Thats' the way I have always done it.
I've always pulled the drums off both sides and leave one side intact so I can see how the thing goes back together...
It's not so important now that I have a digital camera, I can take a pic before disassembly.
I have found that sometimes books are wrong, or don't have exactly the pic I need...
That method never failed me...

Good luck with yer brake repair.

KaptnKA S

[dolinick]

Hey, I got it back together. Then took it to a shop to
get the brakes looked at and found out that the cylinder
probably wasn't leaking after all. The seal on the axle
was leaking! (how are you supposed to get those two
springs off anyway? I finally just grabbed as close to
the end with some pliers and sort of twisted them off.)



At any rate they wanted to replace the seal and the
shoes for about $400.00 parts and labor. They didn't
charge anything to take the drums off and inspect it
and put it back together. I wonder if I can replace
the axle seal? I know i can replace shoes and cylinders now.
At least I think I can.

I got dirtier than I can remember taking those brakes
apart. My hands were totally black. I guess from all
the differential oil and dirt on the brakes.

I guess I'll take a few days off from working on the truck.
I gotta haul gas Sat-Tue this week anyway.




Dan

[l1k2gadd]

Check on this site for identifying the rear-end you have in your truck and look for the information on pulling the axles out of that type of rearend.

I know I have pulled axles to replace rear wheel bearings on 1960s Mustang 8" rearends.

All I had to do on the 8" rearend was turn the rear axle and look through the hole on the axle between the lugnut studs for the 4 bolts / nuts that hold the axle shaft into the rearend housing and rear drum brake backing plates.

I would loosen and remove the 4 nuts and put them aside.

Then I would take the brake drum, turn it backwards and put it onto the lugnut studs and just start the lugnuts onto the threads of the studs about 1/2-way into the lugnut so there was "sliding - play" in and out with the brake drum on the lugnut studs.

I would then use the brake drum like and axle puller and forcefully slide the brake drum in and out, hitting it against the back of the lugnuts until the axle pulled free from the seal in the housing.

You can probably rent or buy an axle puller if you'd like from an auto parts store, I don't know.

If I remember correctly the seal was a paper gasket that was sitting on the back side of the axle where the 4 bolt holes are that hold the axle to the housing.

Please, please, check to be sure this is the way to remove the axle shafts from your truck. I DO NOT know if the Ford 9" uses this same method. If you have a Dana 44 it might have axle clips inside of the housing that you have to remove to get the axle out.

Every new thing you learn how to do is something you can help someone else with some day in the future!!

[l1k2gadd]

Also, there are "brake spring pliers" for removing and reinstalling drum brake springs. I could never figure out how to use the tool to remove the upper springs. I just use a good small vise-grip to grip the spring end of tail of the spring and CAREFULLY remove the spring from over the top spring and cable holder while watching that you don't slip and tear your hands open on the fender wells or other brake parts. The brake spring pliers are very handy at reinstalling the upper springs though.

I also found two screwdriver-type tools in a Salvation Army Thrift Store that are used to hold, install and remove the round cups on the small round springs that sit on the sides of the shoes and hold the shoes to the brake backing plate(s).

When putting the springs back in place reinstall all of the springs, the round side springs, the adjuster cable and guide, the upper springs and then the adjuster stop / lock and lower spring. Sit the cleaned and lubricated brake adjusting wheel behind the lower ends of the shoes. Slip one end of the adjuster onto the one lower side of one brake shoe, hold it in place while spreading the bottoms of the shoes apart and slip the adjuster onto the lower end of the other brake shoe. Release the pressure on the shoes and you are ready to put the drum on and adjust the brake.

I used to fight with that bottom adjuster spring and stop. I learned the way to reassemble the drum brakes and springs the way I described above only about a year or so ago.

[fordman]

you dont need any special tools. they are nice to have and use but you donnt really need them. a srewdriver and pliers is all i have ever used. except in school where they had the neat little brake tools. the rear axle seal is located behind the wheel bearing. you have to press of the wheel bearing in order to replace the seal.. to remove the axle there is a hole in the lug nut plate that willallow you access to the four nuts holding the axle in. remove these four nuts get a new seal and or bearing. take the axle and new parts to a machine shop and ask them to press it on and put the new seal on the axle for you. maybe. 20.00 -40.00.

[dolinick]

It took me a couple of hours I think to take the right rear brake
all apart and put back together. I had an idea of what
was in there but never actually took them apart before.
The part that I struggled with the longest was getting
the two springs off from the top. I grabbed at them
with some channel lock type pliers and also some vice
grips. I scratched them up a bit as well. Then I just
grabbed one with the pliers and sort of twisted it off
instead of trying to stretch it out enough to it off.

Those little round springs and cups I managed to get
off by hand but used the vice grip to hold the cup
while pressing it on and twisting.

To get the two big springs back on I got lucky.
The one that overlaps on top I just put an old
screwdriver thru it and pryed on it till it popped
in place. Placing the tip next to the edge of
the spring holder thingy.

How do you adjust the brakes? Just turn the screw
until the shoe rubs on the drum a bit? What about
my brake lines? Can I flush them out completely?

I started dreaming about disk brakes today. I had
better just fix these for now if I can.

Dan

[fordman]

that sounds about the way i have done them before. yes to adjust thebrakes you turn the screw until they barely rub and then just unscrew it one click or so. to make it right. i have never flushed my lines so i dont know what would work for you.

[72stepside]

I just replaced the seal on my truck. I got the axle out like mentioned above and pried out the bad seal with a large screwdriver. I took it with me to the parts store to make sure I got the right one.

To press it back in, I took a landscape timber and cut it down to a diameter to match the seal. It is my homemade seal press. Got everything lined up and gently hammered the seal in. Put everything back together. Been leak free for a couple of weeks now.

[The_Eman]

Here's a link I used to bleed my brakes for the first time.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_ho ... akes.shtml

[dolinick]

The brake fluid in my truck is so old I want
to completely replace it. I read the article
on bleeding brakes. I tried adjusting the rear
brakes today and it seems to be stopping a lot
better already.

Dan