
question about cutting coils
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- 69bumptruck
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question about cutting coils
I was wondering a few things. I'm wanting to lower my truck in the front a little. I don't want to mess with getting the I-beams bent though. I've been reading old posts, and all seem to say that taking off up to 2" is okay without messing up the camber. But where are the 2" measured from? Here's a pic that kinda asks the same thing. So which version, A or B, do you go by when cutting the 2"'s? Thanks.
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re: question about cutting coils
Typically when referring to trimming springs, you say you trimmed 2 coils off...which would be two complete revolutions around. Trimming 2" off from the end of the pigtail isn't going to be enough to make any kind of difference. So the answer would be 'B'.
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- ezernut9mm
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re: question about cutting coils
just my personal experience, i cut one full coil off and got about 2" of drop. and yes, the camber is off some. i'm not sure if it is off enough to cause any excessive tire wear though, as i don't drive my truck enough to know.
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- mrung0wa
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re: question about cutting coils
Yes you will increase your camber.
Anytime that you make a drastic change to your suspension's geometry it will result in a drastic way that your suspension functions.
The camber in the early Twin I-Beams with King pins is permanent and cannot be adjusted.
It's one of those
cause and effect
principals.
I believe that your only choices are: to purchase modified spindles, or modified I-Beams which naturally will be at a premium price.
Lawrence
Anytime that you make a drastic change to your suspension's geometry it will result in a drastic way that your suspension functions.
The camber in the early Twin I-Beams with King pins is permanent and cannot be adjusted.
It's one of those


I believe that your only choices are: to purchase modified spindles, or modified I-Beams which naturally will be at a premium price.

Lawrence

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Re: re: question about cutting coils
i agree with lawrence , except you will be increasing yournegative cambermrung0wa wrote:Yes you will increase your camber.
Anytime that you make a drastic change to your suspension's geometry it will result in a drastic way that your suspension functions.
The camber in the early Twin I-Beams with King pins is permanent and cannot be adjusted.
It's one of thosecause and effect
principals.
I believe that your only choices are: to purchase modified spindles, or modified I-Beams which naturally will be at a premium price.![]()
Lawrence
- 69bumptruck
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re: question about cutting coils
Well, crappers.
I'm beginning to think I'll just leave the front suspension alone. I am going to lower the back (by flipping the spring perch), so maybe just some "low profile" tires will drop the front slightly to even it out.

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re: question about cutting coils
cutting a couple coils isn't going to turn your tires on their sides. get your kids to jump up and down on the front bumper, check out how the camber changes, it will stay like it is when they jump on it. or if you have a heavy friend, that works too haha.
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re: question about cutting coils
Older front end shops can cold bend the I beams to straighten out camber 

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re: question about cutting coils
I've adjusted my ride height on some of my other cars with tire changes. On my old Dart, I ran 215/60/14 on the front, and 235/60/14 on the back, and it gave it a nice rake, plus the sidewall was shorter than stock, so it had the effect of lowering the car slightly. But, it still rode like factory.
Maybe you could just shop around a bit and find some shorter tires for the front that would do the trick?
Nick,
Plans to go with chrome smoothie wheels and white letter tires soon...
Maybe you could just shop around a bit and find some shorter tires for the front that would do the trick?
Nick,
Plans to go with chrome smoothie wheels and white letter tires soon...

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- 69bumptruck
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Re: re: question about cutting coils
Yeah, that's probably what I'll end up doing. But I am going to lower the rear suspension. So I'll be happy if it ends up just being "level" but lower than stock.Mooosman wrote:I've adjusted my ride height on some of my other cars with tire changes. On my old Dart, I ran 215/60/14 on the front, and 235/60/14 on the back, and it gave it a nice rake, plus the sidewall was shorter than stock, so it had the effect of lowering the car slightly. But, it still rode like factory.
Maybe you could just shop around a bit and find some shorter tires for the front that would do the trick?
Nick,
Plans to go with chrome smoothie wheels and white letter tires soon...
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- Clarko
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Yeah, the truck must be fully assembled in order to bend I-beams.
I did that to two trucks last week.
It's really a simple process as long as you have the right tools.
All of our stuff here is home made and works great.
I went from 1 3/4 degrees positive camber to 1 degree negative camber and the tires now wear perfectly and the truck handles a heck of a lot better.
For a street truck that doesn't do much hauling 1/2 to 3/4 degree negative camber is perfect.
I did that to two trucks last week.
It's really a simple process as long as you have the right tools.
All of our stuff here is home made and works great.
I went from 1 3/4 degrees positive camber to 1 degree negative camber and the tires now wear perfectly and the truck handles a heck of a lot better.
For a street truck that doesn't do much hauling 1/2 to 3/4 degree negative camber is perfect.
Brian

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Just be sure to bend them COLD. However tempting never use heatClarko wrote:Yeah, the truck must be fully assembled in order to bend I-beams.
I did that to two trucks last week.
It's really a simple process as long as you have the right tools.
All of our stuff here is home made and works great.
I went from 1 3/4 degrees positive camber to 1 degree negative camber and the tires now wear perfectly and the truck handles a heck of a lot better.
For a street truck that doesn't do much hauling 1/2 to 3/4 degree negative camber is perfect.

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