brake help

Suspension, steering, brakes, wheels & tires

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layedout72
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re: brake help

Post by layedout72 »

the hubs are old, the drums are new. that being said, when I was trying to pull the lugs through with an impact, there was no interference, it say flush just fine. the center housing of the hub, for the bearing, sat inside the cut out of the drum perfectly.
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customcrewcab
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re: brake help

Post by customcrewcab »

so the drum won't slide over? does it fit over some of the but not others. i had that problem with my new studs. they where alot longer so it was easy to be off. i have 3.5" of thread. out have to tap the studs on the side ends very light or with a soft blow hammer. i think they just might be alittle bit out.
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rjewkes
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Post by rjewkes »

i pulled mine appart but dad left the digital camerta in the truck.

but what i have for a hub looks to be one complete assembly for the hub and drum. the only ones that should be seperate are the rear drums and axles. its possable the front hub and drum are seperate parts on the the half pricers. but i don't know.

so i think someone at sometime went disc then went back to drum or you got sold disc hubs from a 73-79 plus your drums.


but the front drum and hub are one part on the 67-72. infact i beleive it is cast that way.

before you give up try a junk yard for your front hubs. if it comes down to it as long as your rears work and the front hubs on it now will mount to the tires you ma wanna just bolt the tires on and roll it out front to make your dad happy.

once you have the correct front hubs then you can do them out front in minutes.
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re: brake help

Post by Banjo »

I'm not sure what prob is, but you know so many new parts are made in brazil, indonesia, taiwan, etc, where everything metric, it doesn't take much to get some interference. If you dont' have a dremel with a little attachment where you could open up drum holes, or an air compressor and die grinder, if you've got a drill, they make those cone shaped grinder things you can put in those too. Won't take much if that's what deal is (some kinda metric measurement hole versus standard), or even a round file might do it. Just throwing out things trying to help good luck, Banjo in Ala.
layedout72
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re: brake help

Post by layedout72 »

If Rock Auto sent me the wrong parts, they will be getting them back, and returning my money. REguardless of little nicks in the part. Is it possible at all for a disc hub to mount into a drum? Everything FITS, it all lines up fine, everything has clearance other than the lugs and lug holes. They line up, fit in the holes, just wont push down to seat flush.
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Post by averagef250 »

If the drum fits over the center hub nice and tight, but won't go over the lug shoulders just drill bigger holes in the drums. The drum centers on the center hub, not the studs.

Off the hub, will one of the old studs fit through the lug holes in the new drum?
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layedout72
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re: brake help

Post by layedout72 »

The old ones don't just slide through, no. I figured they would, being pressed before, but no. They don't.
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Post by rjewkes »

if the hub is the same size then yes but i'm not sure I'd trust tat setup very long. the original front hubs are cast as one piece.
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layedout72
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re: brake help

Post by layedout72 »

that's my thinking.....I don't want to drive a setup I can't trust. I'd rather try something and mess up building it, then build something and mess up driving it!
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Post by rjewkes »

if your tires will mount without the drum then perhapsd you can slowly move it to the other garage.

or even leave it outside the small garage and build a frame in there.
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layedout72
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re: brake help

Post by layedout72 »

http://mazdabscene.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8272 there is a link to what I am thinking, but that is built for another truck, that's the idea though. I have measurements for a mustang II, I would just have to set up the rack how I need it, and set up the steering column, somehow. Don't know really. Guessing a mustang column fit to the rack and pinion setup.
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Post by Wes »

I'm not sure about your f100, but allot of brake drum/disc use the the lug studs to hold them together, IE new drum means you press out old stud to separate parts. Then pressing new studs into old hub and new drum together. Most application should then have the drums machined to true drum to centerline of hub.

I am thinking you need to have new studs repressed into
the hub and new drum all at once.
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layedout72
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re: brake help

Post by layedout72 »

so take it all back apart, and have everything pressed at once? I may get it turned over and running and just do these brakes after the cruise im going on.
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Post by rjewkes »

that would probably be best, get it rolling and engine turned over to keep dad happy, so he and you both know it'll atleast start and run.

then go on cruise and relax don't even think about the truck while on the cruise then comeback and think about it a little clearer.
"It is better to keep your mouth shut and appear stupid than to open it and remove all doubt." - Mark Twain
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two-bit
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re: brake help

Post by two-bit »

Hey layedout 72,
I know what you mean about the aggravation of just scrap it and to h*!! with it!!!!
I ran into a lot of that when i was younger. (No offense intended)

I was looking really close at your pictures. One thing that i noticed is that the old wheel studs appear to be tapered on the non-threaded part of the shaft.
IE: from the thread to head the dia seems to gradually increase.

The new ones you had pressed in look like they have a full shoulder at the threading and that they are one set dia. all the way to the head.

If that is true, you would not be able to put the new ones in with your home impact cause you have WAY TO MUCH friction/interference between the hole in the hub and the stud itself.
If i remember right, the factory studs are machined with a taper just for this reason.

Also if my memory serves me correctly. The front drums have a smaller hole dia for the stud, than the rear drums do. If i was a betting man, which i'm not, i would put my money on the fact that the local parts store gave you wheel studs for the rear axle.

What to do now? You could dremel/drill out the holes in the drum to match the stud dia. (as previously mentioned). OR, you could knock out the new ones, (good luck), and put in your old ones back in. OR, you could open up the phone book and find a place that deals in fasteners. Most of those places can either directly match your original, or find something so close you will not know the difference. Purchase those, install them.

This kind of thing happens to me all the time when dealing with older trucks. Especially trucks with front drum brakes. It seems as thought the auto parts world has forgotten they ever existed.

BTW: your removable front drums are a new one on me. I have never seen that before on a F-100. Every one i have ever seen has had integrated hub/drum assemblies. Of course your truck is a '72 right?
Seems they mixed a lot of parts in '72 between bumps and dents from the factory. I have seen some odd-ball stuff on '72's.

Good luck with it, try not to give into the evil crusher temptation.
I live in a place where i am very lucky to see a bump other than my own more than once a month.

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