boxing frame

[zakt]

Well moving on to boxing the frame in the front of my 2wd shortly to convert it to 4wd. Heres what Im thinking, the frame steel thickness is about 3/16 now Im thinking box it the same size steel or? The wires, lines should they be run in the boxed area or run them outside it and if inside what kind (spacing, size) holes for access? Also the front is 35" wide with spring 3" wide so need about 3 1/2" wide boxed frame in the front for the leaf hanger mounts then the rear front frame width is 34" so thinking 1/2" plates welded on the outside both sides of the frame to even up on the front 35".

[FORDification]

No, the lines and wiring definitely needs to be on the outside. If you put them on the inside, not only is there the possibility of damage when you weld the plates in, but once the plates are welded in, you'll no longer have access to anything.

I don't understand what you're describing as far as plates on the front?

To get the rear track width the same as the front you'd be better off by swapping in '73-'79 rearend and just relocating the rearend's spring perches. An added perk to doing this is you'd be upgrading to 32-spline axles.

[zakt]

Will be getting custom axles so all the perches (pinion angle, width) will be calculated in so dont need to try to configure to fitment of another existing axle.

here is what Im transfering to the 67' below (will help with the idea). Using the same front bracket/mount on the 67' changing the width for the narrower frame. this in turn now means I need the spring to line up in the rear and its 34" front 35" = 1" difference so the mount in the rear needs to be 1/2" out on both sides to line up to the front. Make sense, hence the 1/2" plate on the outside of the rear hanger to get it 35" same as front??

[xxxtina63]

Looks like you could clear more than 35's with that much suspension.

[zakt]

planning on 40" tires

[ExplorerNC]

That's alot of blocks holding that truck up!!!

[averagef250]

Seams like it would be easier to just ditch the stock frame and build your own custom tube frame using the stocker as a rough template. If you have the know-how to weld chromoly you can build your whole frame from some pretty thinwall stuff and have a very strong and lightweight finish result.

As a general rule, the strongest joints are made with metal of the same thickness. If your frame is appx. 3/16", then plate it with 3/16". Thicker plate will not be any stronger, most of a materials strength is in it's surface area.

[zakt]

I thought about doing something like a tube frame but I think that will be more time and money. Not to say it isnt time consuming now either I had the other springs already from my 85' so didnt want to waste those but will have to get new front ones though as I suspected the pin is farther toward the cab about 2" so the wheels wont be centered. It will work though to get everything installed on it and then get it weighed for the new springs to be made with the trucks exact weight and to level it out perfectly. I also am not the greatest welder so didnt want to get into that either wanted something I could do (not really caring on how long it takes, within reason)
.
Todd

[heep70]

Just to let ya know. If you use that rear axle it is going to be kinda hard to steer?

Idea !!!!!!!! Rear steer solid front. I see a tech article.





Just messen with ya.

[zakt]

your right that would be tuff The 85' came with TTB front so had to yank that to get the leaf set up on there for measurements so a rear works as good as a front. I actually have a 75' D44 front and my 95' D60 front I will be using on the 67' temporarily so no fear I pretty much know what Im doing