well i had the first prob out of my 67' 250 hauling just enough dirt to hit the overload leafs in the bed my rear axle stripped the 4.10 gear set it looks like the pinion bearings failed allowing the pinion to walk away from the ring gear and destroying the set. I pulled the shaft, and drove home on the front axle in 4x4. now i've got the cover off, and am trying to pull the axles. Me Mr. caterpillar mechanic is getting whuped up on by a set of full floating axle in my dana 60 . Okay so what am i missing are there little lock clips where the nuts were (there is something that looks like a lock washer where the studs are for the axle) or is just 40 years of rust taking it's toll. Feel free to chime in please anybody.
Something tells me i'm about to feel really stupid.
Just another Ford fool named Dan.
The Junk that hangs around
67' F-250 highboy Camper special cross breed currently under way http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=86706
1974 Bronco 302 3 speed
1984 bronco 302 c6 35's
1994 F350 7.3 5spd dually.
woods wrote: The rust holes in my truck were a factory install (very rare).
Axles should just pull out after removed 8 nuts on hub and gland nuts. Should be any rust in the rear axle. Sometime the brakes bind and you got work with them. Also, wonder if the axles are binding from the overload??? Maybe not the last one!! I have read of folks having to straighten the axle, maybe you get to be one.
The brake drums do not need to be removed to get the axle shafts out. Just take out the eight 5/8" bolts on the hub housing and pull the shaft.
Oh, you may have the cone style washers under the nuts that hold the rear axle shafts in. In this case undo the eight nuts that are on the hub housing and smack the center of the hub with a hammer. Watch you don't hit the studs. Might also have to lub the washers. They can be tough.
Greg
1971 F250 "Highboy". SOLD to "Highboy_Firefighter_71"
2000 Subaru Outback limited.
2000 F250 4X4 PSD SuperDuty Crew.
2010 Polaris 800RMK Dragon 155"
2013 Polaris Pro 800 RMK 163"
1980 Built Toyota "Trail Rig". My last 1971 "Highboy" pics
heep70 wrote:The brake drums do not need to be removed to get the axle shafts out. Just take out the eight 5/8" bolts on the hub housing and pull the shaft.
Oh, you may have the cone style washers under the nuts that hold the rear axle shafts in. In this case undo the eight nuts that are on the hub housing and smack the center of the hub with a hammer. Watch you don't hit the studs. Might also have to lub the washers. They can be tough.
Mine were stuck pretty good from the gasket/silicone material used to seal the axle to the hub. I had to use a thin putty knife to get them started. once the gasket surface was free they slipped right out.
heep70 wrote:The brake drums do not need to be removed to get the axle shafts out. Just take out the eight 5/8" bolts on the hub housing and pull the shaft.
Oh, you may have the cone style washers under the nuts that hold the rear axle shafts in. In this case undo the eight nuts that are on the hub housing and smack the center of the hub with a hammer. Watch you don't hit the studs. Might also have to lub the washers. They can be tough.
Yeah i knew about the whole just pulling axles from working on trucks i've never seen these little washer things that are on this axle before though yeah mines got them and the are rusted solid. Oh well i'll keep battling
Just another Ford fool named Dan.
The Junk that hangs around
67' F-250 highboy Camper special cross breed currently under way http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=86706
1974 Bronco 302 3 speed
1984 bronco 302 c6 35's
1994 F350 7.3 5spd dually.
woods wrote: The rust holes in my truck were a factory install (very rare).