stopping at a red light and the brakes go out !!!!!!!
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- AmericanMadeFord
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re: stopping at a red light and the brakes go out !!!!!!!
I went through this all the brakes failed and I replaced the M/C then a right rear brake. Well the rest of the brakes were so bad that the truck was then only stopping on the right rear. Old trucks are only as good as the maintenance they get and the desire to take them apart and inspect everything once you get one. After that first inspection the brakes will not be an unknown.
Now to brake lines you don't have to have a double flare kit because if you can't do a single flare that works, a double is much harder to get correct. I hand bend my lines very carefully and slowly to prevent kinks. A full soda can makes a nice bending jig, so does a soccer ball or softball.
Now to brake lines you don't have to have a double flare kit because if you can't do a single flare that works, a double is much harder to get correct. I hand bend my lines very carefully and slowly to prevent kinks. A full soda can makes a nice bending jig, so does a soccer ball or softball.
- flyboy2610
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Re: re: stopping at a red light and the brakes go out !!!!!!
Never, ever single flare your brake lines! Always double flare them!kid wrote: Now to brake lines you don't have to have a double flare kit because if you can't do a single flare that works, a double is much harder to get correct.
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If you're going to live like there's no hell...............
you'd better be right.
http://theworldasiseeit-flyboy2610.blog ... ee-it.html
- Whoaaanelly
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re: stopping at a red light and the brakes go out !!!!!!!
I just happened upon a nice little article about fittings and flare types found in brake plumbing. It seems the Navy uses AN fittings with a 37 degree single flare. The 37 degree single flare seals by stretching the tubing material between two perfectly machined surfaces, whereas SAE fittings (the 45 degree double flare) use compression to seal. I don't know I've ever had the problem he describes regarding the number of cycles (on and off) you can use SAE joints. I know I've reused the same joint a dozen times or more with no leaks.
If you're interested:
http://www.dimebank.com/BrakePlumbing.html
If you're interested:
http://www.dimebank.com/BrakePlumbing.html
Roger
____________
07 Ford Escape Limited (first new car ever)
78 F350 Flatbed (Dentside)
67 F100 Pickup (Bumpside)
65 Falcon 2-door Wagon
63 Falcon Ranchero
____________
07 Ford Escape Limited (first new car ever)
78 F350 Flatbed (Dentside)
67 F100 Pickup (Bumpside)
65 Falcon 2-door Wagon
63 Falcon Ranchero
re: stopping at a red light and the brakes go out !!!!!!!
Actually the Navy uses AN and MS fittings and of all the MS takes preference over AN in all the designs and AN is used for low end pressure requirements like air tanks now days as all combat aircraft push several thousand psi when you deflect a panel into the wind at Mach 2.
My brake lines are seamless ie. drawn copper tubing.
My brake lines are seamless ie. drawn copper tubing.
- rjewkes
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copper will never work under a car too soft go steel.
"It is better to keep your mouth shut and appear stupid than to open it and remove all doubt." - Mark Twain
'70 f250 4x4 Crew cab 460/C6 '72 F100 390/C6 9.8 MPG AVG. '89 Mercury Cougar LS Dual Exh. V6 . 18.9 MPG AVG. In Town.

I don't want to give em a heart-attack. That is what would happen if I answered the door in the buff. Heck it almost scares me to death when I step out of the shower and look in the mirror.~Mancar1~
fuelly.com
'70 f250 4x4 Crew cab 460/C6 '72 F100 390/C6 9.8 MPG AVG. '89 Mercury Cougar LS Dual Exh. V6 . 18.9 MPG AVG. In Town.

I don't want to give em a heart-attack. That is what would happen if I answered the door in the buff. Heck it almost scares me to death when I step out of the shower and look in the mirror.~Mancar1~
fuelly.com
- Whoaaanelly
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- Location: Washington, Seattle
re: stopping at a red light and the brakes go out !!!!!!!
This is still, I think, missing the point. The tubing type is only one aspect of this equation. The fitting type also denotes the flaring requirements.
There was something in that article I read (and posted) about newer copper type line compatible for automotive brake use (it's a copper alloy as I recall), and it may be what is now being sold. I've never noticed the difference over the years and never thought to ask. I'll have to look at my last spool to see if it is this type, perhaps. Even still, I doubt if you query the maker of that tubing they will recommend a single flare with 45 degree SAE fittings on automotive applications -- even if it is, in fact, seamless tubing.
Of course, it goes without saying, if you've upgraded to something else, in regards to fittings, that's great, but if not, then all you've proven is that it will work, which I agree is possible -- but not that it is at all recommended to do so. There is a big difference here.
Finally, anytime I post something (on the multiple forums I post to) I always consider there may be people with little or no experience reading my post. Some, now, may be fixing their brake lines and reading this thread for help in doing so. As such, it goes without saying that erring on the side of safety and known practices should be followed, which I try to do. So, if you are making your own brake lines, double-flare them as recommended by the industry at large. It's not really that hard to do. Get a "good tool" (spend the extra $20 if needed -- it's only your life we're talking about here) and practice a few times until you get a feel for it. Then go for it.
Anyway, this is just my
and I'll step down from my soap box now.
And they all say:

There was something in that article I read (and posted) about newer copper type line compatible for automotive brake use (it's a copper alloy as I recall), and it may be what is now being sold. I've never noticed the difference over the years and never thought to ask. I'll have to look at my last spool to see if it is this type, perhaps. Even still, I doubt if you query the maker of that tubing they will recommend a single flare with 45 degree SAE fittings on automotive applications -- even if it is, in fact, seamless tubing.
Of course, it goes without saying, if you've upgraded to something else, in regards to fittings, that's great, but if not, then all you've proven is that it will work, which I agree is possible -- but not that it is at all recommended to do so. There is a big difference here.
Finally, anytime I post something (on the multiple forums I post to) I always consider there may be people with little or no experience reading my post. Some, now, may be fixing their brake lines and reading this thread for help in doing so. As such, it goes without saying that erring on the side of safety and known practices should be followed, which I try to do. So, if you are making your own brake lines, double-flare them as recommended by the industry at large. It's not really that hard to do. Get a "good tool" (spend the extra $20 if needed -- it's only your life we're talking about here) and practice a few times until you get a feel for it. Then go for it.
Anyway, this is just my

And they all say:





Roger
____________
07 Ford Escape Limited (first new car ever)
78 F350 Flatbed (Dentside)
67 F100 Pickup (Bumpside)
65 Falcon 2-door Wagon
63 Falcon Ranchero
____________
07 Ford Escape Limited (first new car ever)
78 F350 Flatbed (Dentside)
67 F100 Pickup (Bumpside)
65 Falcon 2-door Wagon
63 Falcon Ranchero