stopping at a red light and the brakes go out !!!!!!!

Suspension, steering, brakes, wheels & tires

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AmericanMadeFord
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Post by AmericanMadeFord »

So today i went out and bought a flaring kit and some brake line. I ran a new brake line from the master cylinder to the rear axel. I also bought a new brake hose for the rear. Put it all back together and bled the brakes. It works grate now. thanks for all your help guys
kid

re: stopping at a red light and the brakes go out !!!!!!!

Post by kid »

I went through this all the brakes failed and I replaced the M/C then a right rear brake. Well the rest of the brakes were so bad that the truck was then only stopping on the right rear. Old trucks are only as good as the maintenance they get and the desire to take them apart and inspect everything once you get one. After that first inspection the brakes will not be an unknown.

Now to brake lines you don't have to have a double flare kit because if you can't do a single flare that works, a double is much harder to get correct. I hand bend my lines very carefully and slowly to prevent kinks. A full soda can makes a nice bending jig, so does a soccer ball or softball.
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Re: re: stopping at a red light and the brakes go out !!!!!!

Post by flyboy2610 »

kid wrote: Now to brake lines you don't have to have a double flare kit because if you can't do a single flare that works, a double is much harder to get correct.
Never, ever single flare your brake lines! Always double flare them!
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Post by kid »

Why? I was highly trained by the Navy in hydraulic systems and if I can single flare 3000psi hydraulic system lines why can I not single flare 100 psi tin plated copper brake lines.
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re: stopping at a red light and the brakes go out !!!!!!!

Post by Whoaaanelly »

I just happened upon a nice little article about fittings and flare types found in brake plumbing. It seems the Navy uses AN fittings with a 37 degree single flare. The 37 degree single flare seals by stretching the tubing material between two perfectly machined surfaces, whereas SAE fittings (the 45 degree double flare) use compression to seal. I don't know I've ever had the problem he describes regarding the number of cycles (on and off) you can use SAE joints. I know I've reused the same joint a dozen times or more with no leaks.

If you're interested:

http://www.dimebank.com/BrakePlumbing.html
Roger
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78 F350 Flatbed (Dentside)
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kid

re: stopping at a red light and the brakes go out !!!!!!!

Post by kid »

Actually the Navy uses AN and MS fittings and of all the MS takes preference over AN in all the designs and AN is used for low end pressure requirements like air tanks now days as all combat aircraft push several thousand psi when you deflect a panel into the wind at Mach 2.

My brake lines are seamless ie. drawn copper tubing.
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Post by rjewkes »

copper will never work under a car too soft go steel.
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Post by kid »

That is what is sold at Checker, CarQuest and Autozone. Seamless Copper tubing with a Steel and tin plate overcoat. Cut or flare it and you will see the copper inside.
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re: stopping at a red light and the brakes go out !!!!!!!

Post by Whoaaanelly »

This is still, I think, missing the point. The tubing type is only one aspect of this equation. The fitting type also denotes the flaring requirements.

There was something in that article I read (and posted) about newer copper type line compatible for automotive brake use (it's a copper alloy as I recall), and it may be what is now being sold. I've never noticed the difference over the years and never thought to ask. I'll have to look at my last spool to see if it is this type, perhaps. Even still, I doubt if you query the maker of that tubing they will recommend a single flare with 45 degree SAE fittings on automotive applications -- even if it is, in fact, seamless tubing.

Of course, it goes without saying, if you've upgraded to something else, in regards to fittings, that's great, but if not, then all you've proven is that it will work, which I agree is possible -- but not that it is at all recommended to do so. There is a big difference here.

Finally, anytime I post something (on the multiple forums I post to) I always consider there may be people with little or no experience reading my post. Some, now, may be fixing their brake lines and reading this thread for help in doing so. As such, it goes without saying that erring on the side of safety and known practices should be followed, which I try to do. So, if you are making your own brake lines, double-flare them as recommended by the industry at large. It's not really that hard to do. Get a "good tool" (spend the extra $20 if needed -- it's only your life we're talking about here) and practice a few times until you get a feel for it. Then go for it.

Anyway, this is just my :2cents: and I'll step down from my soap box now.

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07 Ford Escape Limited (first new car ever)
78 F350 Flatbed (Dentside)
67 F100 Pickup (Bumpside)
65 Falcon 2-door Wagon
63 Falcon Ranchero
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