Ok, I touched the bushings and they went "poof" and are now laying on the floor of the garage in numerous pieces. What is the easiest way to replace these? any help, even if its to laugh at me, is appreciated.
thanks. steve
72 Ford F-350, 2WD, 4 speed 360, Dump truck
76 Ford F-350, 2WD, Cab and Chassis <--gone
Well, while some have suggested that just removing the nut and then using a come-along to pull the front suspension (and radius arm) out of the bracket, I do not like that idea....it just puts a lot of strain on the rest of the front suspension.
You have two options. One is to drop the front suspension to gain access to the front bushing. Yes it's a lot of work....but it might also be a good time to do the kingpins?
The other way is just to use a grinder to grind down the heads of the rivets holding the rear brackets to the frame and remove the bracket, install the bushings, and then use Grade 8 bolts to reinstall the bracket. That actually would be a lot easier IMO.
____| \__
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special My '67 restoration video -> Posting and you!<-a MUST watch for all!!
the last one i helped with we took a jack and put it on the axle and jacked it forward to get the arm out of the socket and then put the new bushings on and took off the jack.
Last edited by fordman on Sun Feb 22, 2015 4:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
JMO but I don't like the idea of removing the rivets, the factory used them for a reason. Besides, if the radius arm bushings were in that bad of shape then maybe the axle pivot bushings can't be that far behind. How about replacing them all and then you don't have to mess around with the rivets?
Barry
"Are you gonna make it all 220?"
"Yeah 220, 221, whatever it takes."
WOW! you guys are fast! the brackets are completely bolted to the frame (six per side I think) I may just do that for a quick fix. I'll drop the front end out when I pull the motor and trans this summer, easier access to everything. Thanks. you guys are best.
72 Ford F-350, 2WD, 4 speed 360, Dump truck
76 Ford F-350, 2WD, Cab and Chassis <--gone
Just to prepare you for a possible shock: Very often the ends of the radius arms are severe ly rusted and degraded. Take a good look at them. You may have to replace the radius arms.
"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy."
Red Green
changing the bushings should take no longer that an hour or two for even the most under inexperienced beginner & I don't see how pulling the engine will speed things up.
Here is how to do it the quickest
1st jack your truck up& support both sides just behind the Radios rods, leaving enough room to get to the big nuts. You may have to support the front frame also by the bumper if you have a big block. Remove tires
2nd loosen/remove the radius arm bolts normally the best impact has a hard time so normally it is best to use a wretched & snipe (a peace of 2 1/2 foot pipe for handle ext.)use lot of good penetrating fluid. Ie not wd40.
3rd remove center pivot bolts
4th remove coil spring retainers, when you do this step make sure your brake rubber brake lines aren't going to get pulled off.
5th fight the suspension forward and replace bushing
to assemble start at the radius bushing end start bolt, then jack the I beam in place, replace center bolt, then spring retainer. then tighten everything up.
I agree with grinding off and replacing the rivets with bolts. As far as them using rivets for a reason.. well if I am not mistaken on the 73-79 they did go with bolts instead of rivets.
I have replaced the rivets with bolts on all the trucks I've owned when replacing the radius arm bushings with no ills of any kind.
As always, just my , (4 cents, inflation and all)
Patrick
Chevrolet
Can Hear Every Valve Rattle on Long Extended Trips
1969 F100 4X4 Highboy 390 3sp
1969 F100 SWB 2wd Auto 351w
1972 F100 Ranger XLT 302 Auto
actualy the 77 i just pulled the front suspension from had a mix of both I believe If I'm not Mistaken Ford Used(Still Uses) Rivets and the Mechanics especialy here as of late have been undoing the factory work and using bolts.
Funny they still charge as if they were doing it the old Fashioned (Dangerous/difficult) Way.
"It is better to keep your mouth shut and appear stupid than to open it and remove all doubt." - Mark Twain
'70 f250 4x4 Crew cab 460/C6 '72 F100 390/C6 9.8 MPG AVG. '89 Mercury Cougar LS Dual Exh. V6 . 18.9 MPG AVG. In Town.
I don't want to give em a heart-attack. That is what would happen if I answered the door in the buff. Heck it almost scares me to death when I step out of the shower and look in the mirror.~Mancar1~
fuelly.com
Man ya'll are full of some great info. I might need to check mine while I'm chasing my pulling brakes.
1969 Ford F-100. 302 4 barrel, C4 auto, 9in 3.50 open rear, headers, power steering, Turq/wht, Under restoration. In other words, in a million pieces!!!
i already have the brackets out, took maybe an hour. but I decided to replace the coils now too and shocks and axle pivots. it never ends. I am pulling the motor this summer just to freshen it up with new gaskets and a good paints job. but while its out it dosent hurt to clean up the engine bay some.
72 Ford F-350, 2WD, 4 speed 360, Dump truck
76 Ford F-350, 2WD, Cab and Chassis <--gone
cooltoolguy wrote:i already have the brackets out, took maybe an hour. but I decided to replace the coils now too and shocks and axle pivots. it never ends. I am pulling the motor this summer just to freshen it up with new gaskets and a good paints job. but while its out it dosent hurt to clean up the engine bay some.
He's hooked.
He'll be doing a full bore restoration before long and won't know what hit him.
That's how it starts!
"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy."
Red Green
Come-a-long not a good idea? I agree with 250 the axle pivot bushings are probibly in the same shape and the radious arm bushings. My 67's axle bushings were so shot it made the camber negative.
Actually, rivets do things that a bolt just can't do.. They expand and tighten in all directions when they're installed. In contrast, the tighter a bolt is put in, the smaller the diameter actually gets. So, when you have a bracket like the radius arm that gets a shear load in all directions, the rivet will be much stronger than even a grade 8 bolt, simply because of the tightness of the fit in the hole. I'm not saying that replacing it with a bolt wont work, but it's not as strong.
JH
Never trust a grinning idiot holding a big hammer!