Axle bracket Flip

[tod-hog]

Okay, I finally got the rivets drilled out of the front brackets of the rear leaf and am ready to do the shackle "flip". It seems pretty obvious to me that it is crucial that the distance between the brackets be precise.

Anyone out there with experience with this task have any tricks, cautions, or advice when completing this? What size, grade of bolt did you use and how did you assemble it? Any help is most appreciated.

tod-hog

[mrung0wa]

Whoa there!
Stop the truck, put it in Park/Neutral and walk with us for a bit....

We'all need some more information from you in order to help you out correctly.
That's how we Brothers operate here in FORDificationLand .

a) What are you trying to accomplish here?

b) What is your goal?

c) What kind of shape/Condition is your pickup in NOW before you do any modifications?

All this Information is Very Critical and we Must have all that you can provide for us.

We really do want to help you achieve the best possible results with your project(s).

Honestly that's not a lot to ask now is it?


Lawrence

[tod-hog]

What, Fordification Master's can't read minds?

My project is a 68 SWB that will be mostly a driver/ looker and less of a worker. I want it mildly lowered to improve appearance and handling but still want to maintain some truck use such hauling or some light towing ( boat or medium sized trailer). Essentially, I still want a truck. I figure a front drop of 2", probably with drop springs as can't afford the dream beams and a rear drop of 4" will do just right. I calculate a 4" rear drop so I will still have some rake. In my opinion the rear of the truck sitting lower than the front looks goofy. From reading Fordification's tutorial I figure that this is the only viable lowering solution that doesn't compromise payload or bottoming out on the axles.

The other details are that I currently have a 68 LWB with a mildly built 390/ C6. The cab is great as it has new corners, pans, and interior paint. The project is essentially to swap the cab & drive train to the SWB. The SWB frame has been stripped, blasted, and is ready for rust coating (POR-15 or Rust Bullet, haven't decided yet), lowering, and install of a disc brake set from a 78 F150.

This enough info?

Thanks,

tod-hog

[tod-hog]

Duh, maybe part of the confusion is the term "axle", which is not what I meant. The rear leaf spring "shackle' not axle.

[fordman]

i was wondering why you were taking off the shackle for a simple axle flip

[FORDification]

He's referring to taking the front leaf spring mount and spinning it 180 degrees and then bolting it back on. That's good for several inches of drop, with no parts to have to buy, just labor. However, you also have to consider that flipping that bracket around could possibly put it above the top of the frame by several inches....which means you'd have to cut a clearance hole in the bottom of the bed. Also, it's going to change the pinion angle a little bit, which (depending on the amount of change) might require some angled shims to bring it back to where it's supposed to be.

I would think that simply measuring the spring before you remove anything will allow you to place the bracket in the same place. I don't think the placement need to be super-precise, as long as they're the same on both sides. Some careful measurements beforehand should be all you'd need.

...and just for the record, did you measure your ride height before cutting those rivets, just so you'll have an idea of how much drop you'll have after you're done?

[tod-hog]

I did take some measurements before cutting-hope they were useful. It looks like it could drop as much as 6" which would surely create some interference with the bed. I may only do a 3" drop as that looks like a pretty safe drop as far as the bed goes. I guess I could always drill new holes if it doesn't fit.

[mrung0wa]

Why not remove a couple of leafs and install some airbags so when you need to haul or pull something, all you have to do is press a button.
That's what I would do to it. It's sure a whole lot less labor intensive and it gives your Suspension "Adjustability".
How could that not be good.


Lawrence

[binder56jd]

what's a bag system cost these days? who makes the best system? jd

[mrung0wa]

Hey, It's not my bag, baby!

Helwig has a good selection of 'em. I think that they start out at around $100 and go way up from there. Any decent aftermarket suspension Mfg. offer Airbag systems.
There definitely the ultimate setup that give the best of both worlds.



Lawrence

[dablack00]

Hey Tod-Hog,

Please take lots of pics. And post before and after numbers. Lots of guys are interested in this mod.

Austin

[flywheel]

I did it to my 69 swb. Axel needs weges for pion angle. Ho I fliped and mounted it to the bed I did not want to cut the bed. Grade 8 only. I had to drill 2 new holes on each side. And when i hit a big bump (Like jump the truck) the drive shaft slams together.(Bing) But looks good. And it took about 4 hours to do. I know,I know. PIC'S I need to get batterys for my camra And my truck is leaning a bit. I don't know if it is a left rear spring or the frunt right spring. Hope this helps KR

[mrung0wa]

Should of went the Airbag route...




Lawrence