Hi. I have buying 2 Door Weatherstrip Seal to may Ford F100 1970. i wear glue as they recommend the black super weatherstrip 08008 but it does not fit. what's wrong. is there any other glue i can have ??
Glue does not stick to the rubber. it falls off and is not stuck. what can I do? I know it's EPDM rubber. but glue does not want to get stuck on the rubber but is okay on the plate / metal
help with weatherstrip
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johnny55
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ddcrim
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Re: help with weatherstrip
Clean the rubber with alcohol. Just went through this.
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johnny55
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Re: help with weatherstrip
is it so simple .... haha here i have been standing for hours and hours soon ending a tub glue for a door side. thanks for quick reply. why do i need to wash off with alcohol? it is because there is oil in the rubber. would it be possible to sand the rubber
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DuckRyder
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Re: help with weatherstrip
I wouldn’t sand it. It probably has mold release on it from manufacturing.
Clean with Alcohol sounds like good advice.
Clean with Alcohol sounds like good advice.
Robert
1972 F100 Ranger XLT (445/C6/9” 3.50 Truetrac)
"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -- Jeff Cooper
1972 F100 Ranger XLT (445/C6/9” 3.50 Truetrac)
"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -- Jeff Cooper
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Busboy
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Re: help with weatherstrip
Ah, Sweden, now I understand.
1967 F-100 4x4 custom cab.
Another 67 F-100 4x4 custom cab.
2016 F-150 Eco-Boost 2.7 liter. (It will smoke the tires!)
1972 F-350 Sport Custom cab & chassis.
1972 F-250 Explorer Special, Camper Special.
1971 F-100 custom. 302, C-4, p.s. p.b. factory 65 amp alternator with transistorized voltage regulator.
Another 67 F-100 4x4 custom cab.
2016 F-150 Eco-Boost 2.7 liter. (It will smoke the tires!)
1972 F-350 Sport Custom cab & chassis.
1972 F-250 Explorer Special, Camper Special.
1971 F-100 custom. 302, C-4, p.s. p.b. factory 65 amp alternator with transistorized voltage regulator.
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johnny55
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Re: help with weatherstrip
YesBusboy wrote:Ah, Sweden, now I understand.
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johnny55
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Re: help with weatherstrip
Hey all. I have to say that it was difficult to fix the rubber moldings.(weatherstrip) It did not work to wash off with alcohol. so I got sandpaper all the inside of the rubber list.(weatherstrip) Then the glue worked well. BUT, now the list is on and I can not close the doors ..... gahaaaa. 
My new list is the same as the old one. There is room for the list and a good space when I removed the old one. but why has it become like this? when I hit the door with all my power, it closes. and I open the door and jump it out with a lot of power ...... what can I do now? do I have to adjust my hinges ?? Do I have to cut the list?
From the inside of the cabin it looks good. on the outside the doors are in the right line with the body. There must be more here who have had the same problem when you have changed the rubber list? ( weatherstrip) need help and advice. tell me how you've done what i can do
My new list is the same as the old one. There is room for the list and a good space when I removed the old one. but why has it become like this? when I hit the door with all my power, it closes. and I open the door and jump it out with a lot of power ...... what can I do now? do I have to adjust my hinges ?? Do I have to cut the list? From the inside of the cabin it looks good. on the outside the doors are in the right line with the body. There must be more here who have had the same problem when you have changed the rubber list? ( weatherstrip) need help and advice. tell me how you've done what i can do
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sargentrs
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Re: help with weatherstrip
That's very common with new weatherstripping. It will relax with time. Helps to roll down the window when closing. You can also warm the seals with a hair dryer or heat gun to soften the rubber then quickly close the door. Let it sit till it cools then do it again, and again, and again. Leave your truck parked in the sun to keep the seals warm. The rest will be fixed with time. You can adjust your hinges and striker out to start with but you want it to close solidly.
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
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johnny55
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Re: help with weatherstrip
thanks again sargentrs. I will try to heat the heat gun for as it is now it almost does not close the doors. I use all my power to close the doors now. but I have not tried to take down the Windows shall try it out.
have to say it was difficult and took time with these weatherstrip hehe. even with the right glue.
I have seen some cars have holes in their weather strip against the door. On my there are some but they are under the rubber list (weatherstrip) do not know if they have to push out air when closing the door. Have seen it from photos from the Facebook forum Ford F100 world
have to say it was difficult and took time with these weatherstrip hehe. even with the right glue.
I have seen some cars have holes in their weather strip against the door. On my there are some but they are under the rubber list (weatherstrip) do not know if they have to push out air when closing the door. Have seen it from photos from the Facebook forum Ford F100 world
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johnny55
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Re: help with weatherstrip
sargentrs now I have warm the seals with a hot air gun. but I think nothing is happening. difficult and heavy to be able to close the doors. have to take in and snap in with all the power i have ... almost i am a little afraid to burn the list because it gets hell hot. I can not understand that it has become like this. are the same lists and the same width and dimensions. it's easy to burn the rubber list.??
That's how to put the car in the sun here I can forget. so hot it will not be here. Nordic climate. It was a little easier with the window down. but still hard to close the doors completely.
That's how to put the car in the sun here I can forget. so hot it will not be here. Nordic climate. It was a little easier with the window down. but still hard to close the doors completely.
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sargentrs
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Re: help with weatherstrip
It takes time. Just warm them up a little, too much and you will melt them. then close the doors and walk away.
Go back in an an hour and do it again. Warm, close wait, repeat. It's not an insrant fix. Just something you have to live with till the rubber ages and compresses. Adjust your hinges and strikers out a little. Might cause your body lines to be a little off but you can adjust them back in when the seals settle.
Go back in an an hour and do it again. Warm, close wait, repeat. It's not an insrant fix. Just something you have to live with till the rubber ages and compresses. Adjust your hinges and strikers out a little. Might cause your body lines to be a little off but you can adjust them back in when the seals settle.
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
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jamesdfo
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Re: help with weatherstrip
Move the striker pin on the B pillar out a bit, it will make it easier to close the doors.
(yes, the result is the door may not be flush with the cab corner, but it's only temporary:)
As time goes by, the new weatherstrips will begin to relax, and bit by bit, you can move the strikers back in, until they are in their original location.
This is much easier that having to SLAM the doors:)
(yes, the result is the door may not be flush with the cab corner, but it's only temporary:)
As time goes by, the new weatherstrips will begin to relax, and bit by bit, you can move the strikers back in, until they are in their original location.
This is much easier that having to SLAM the doors:)