72 F250 bleeder screw
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72 F250 bleeder screw
Just wondering what the best way to loosen the front bleeder screws on my 72 Ford F-250 would be. The back ones were very easy to get to with a socket but the front ones not so much. Any tips would be appreciated
- basketcase0302
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Re: 72 F250 bleeder screw
"Weaverfields1"]Just wondering what the best way to loosen the front bleeder screws on my 72 Ford F-250 would be. The back ones were very easy to get to with a socket but the front ones not so much. Any tips would be appreciated
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Stop by the welcome mat when you get a chance and say hi.
Nothing beats a crows foot wrench when working on old bleeder screws, (I always pull them completely out and put a small piece of teflon tape on them which you will be thankful for a few months down the road).
![Image](https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71%2Bj-zC4pLL._SL1333_.jpg)
Jeff
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
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Re: 72 F250 bleeder screw
A crows foot? how would that be better than a simple box end wrench? or a socket?basketcase0302 wrote:"Weaverfields1"]Just wondering what the best way to loosen the front bleeder screws on my 72 Ford F-250 would be. The back ones were very easy to get to with a socket but the front ones not so much. Any tips would be appreciated![]()
Stop by the welcome mat when you get a chance and say hi.
Nothing beats a crows foot wrench when working on old bleeder screws, (I always pull them completely out and put a small piece of teflon tape on them which you will be thankful for a few months down the road).
1968 Highboy
1976 Highboy
1969 F250 Camper Special
1941 Dodge Power Wagon
1930 Model A Coupe (Hotrod)
1962 Fairlane 500 Sports Coupe
VW Sandrails
Honda ATC's
36' Diesel Pusher for roughing it.
1976 Highboy
1969 F250 Camper Special
1941 Dodge Power Wagon
1930 Model A Coupe (Hotrod)
1962 Fairlane 500 Sports Coupe
VW Sandrails
Honda ATC's
36' Diesel Pusher for roughing it.
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Re: 72 F250 bleeder screw
For bleeder screws, a socket or box wrench should serve you quite well because they contact all sides of the fitting.
Though I have never used them, crow-foot wrenches seem to be a good choice when access is difficult.
I have noticed that line wrenches give a tighter fit than box wrenches and sockets, and thus may be a bit better choice for a corroded fitting.
The screws can get corroded over the years and be difficult to turn, so use some penetrant, try going back and forth to break the corrosion, and be patient.
Some gentle taps with a hammer can also help.
I have never used Teflon tape on brake fittings, though I can see how it might help to prevent corrosion. On the other hand, because Teflon tape acts as a lubricant to allow tapered pipe threads to be tightened, I would be concerned that it could make it easy to over tighten brake line components, which seal due to the flare, not the tightness of the fitting per se, and could cause fluid loss through damaged flares.
Though I have never used them, crow-foot wrenches seem to be a good choice when access is difficult.
I have noticed that line wrenches give a tighter fit than box wrenches and sockets, and thus may be a bit better choice for a corroded fitting.
The screws can get corroded over the years and be difficult to turn, so use some penetrant, try going back and forth to break the corrosion, and be patient.
Some gentle taps with a hammer can also help.
I have never used Teflon tape on brake fittings, though I can see how it might help to prevent corrosion. On the other hand, because Teflon tape acts as a lubricant to allow tapered pipe threads to be tightened, I would be concerned that it could make it easy to over tighten brake line components, which seal due to the flare, not the tightness of the fitting per se, and could cause fluid loss through damaged flares.
Fred
1970 F100 4WD short bed, 360 engine, very rusty plow and yard truck
1971 F100 2WD long bed, 302 engine, on the road
1968 F100 2WD long bed, 360 engine, stripping for parts
1970 F100 4WD short bed, 360 engine, very rusty plow and yard truck
1971 F100 2WD long bed, 302 engine, on the road
1968 F100 2WD long bed, 360 engine, stripping for parts
- basketcase0302
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Re: 72 F250 bleeder screw
Funny thing there Fred...
As a retired HVAC tech that's been using teflon on my brake line for over 40 years without a single bleeder failure might very well speak for itself.
But you can continue to fight, (with a hammer really?) your old seized brake lines all you want.![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/icon_laughing01.gif)
As a retired HVAC tech that's been using teflon on my brake line for over 40 years without a single bleeder failure might very well speak for itself.
![2 cents :2cents:](./images/smilies/icon_2cents.gif)
But you can continue to fight, (with a hammer really?) your old seized brake lines all you want.
![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/icon_laughing01.gif)
Jeff
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
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Re: 72 F250 bleeder screw
Not trying to start a fight basketcase, no disrespect intended, just sharing my thoughts.
I actually like the idea of Teflon tape on brake fittings, have considered it but for whatever reason not done it. I usually put a dab of anti-seize on the outside.
Hammer-assisted removals have always been on old, crusty, long-neglected fittings as a desperation move.
I actually like the idea of Teflon tape on brake fittings, have considered it but for whatever reason not done it. I usually put a dab of anti-seize on the outside.
Hammer-assisted removals have always been on old, crusty, long-neglected fittings as a desperation move.
Fred
1970 F100 4WD short bed, 360 engine, very rusty plow and yard truck
1971 F100 2WD long bed, 302 engine, on the road
1968 F100 2WD long bed, 360 engine, stripping for parts
1970 F100 4WD short bed, 360 engine, very rusty plow and yard truck
1971 F100 2WD long bed, 302 engine, on the road
1968 F100 2WD long bed, 360 engine, stripping for parts