overheating

[1guydude]

So this last Saturday or sunday I blew my radiator out on the freeway exit. Is it possible I blew my head gaskets as well? I tore the motor down today to find water in all the cylinders :/
going to try and put it all back together tomorrow morning. Hoping after I can burp my radiator and the truck wont overheat... ???
Also I didn't have my guide pins or dowels in or on the heads and block or where they meet...could this cause my heats to float or shift and move. Allowing the water coolant in?
Gonna check the heads and block as good as I can for cracks but shouldn't have any.
New top end rebuild and new radiator recently. Idels at 190deg but just goes up when drivin. Not super happy about this. Praying I can get it to stay cool. All I got was new head gaskets today.
thanks all
-devin

[tnlprt]

If you have an FE engine FRONT MEANS FRONT on the head gaskets

A bad intake gasket can also fill the cylinders with water

[71Fe2O3]

Though I have only installed head gaskets in Subaru engines, I have torn apart some FE engines, and I recall that there is a definite orientation to the gaskets-they are either marked or shaped in ways that make it difficult to install them improperly. Missing dowel pins could allow the heads to move relative to the block, so be sure to get a set of them-Summit comes to mind as a possible source.
The fault could also be with the intake gasket, as tnlprt noted, so you should replace that as well-I think you have to remove it to get to the head gaskets on an FE anyway, and it seems that you shouldn't re-use the old one.
While you have it apart, consider doing a full rebuild. If you rebuild half of the engine, you will have problems with the other half down the road, with the eventual result being you will have to tear it apart again to get it right, costing you additional time and money compared to doing it all at once.

[1guydude]

I didn't look at the cam or crank but the cylinders and holes looked really good. No lip at the end of the holes...I did a top end rebuild cuz my heads had a cracked valve. Or broken and missing a chunk. I have the dowel pins at home with my new old fel pro kit. I didn't know what they were for.
Ill get new intake gaskets as well. Mine seem good but have been compressed. As has the valve covers gaskets. And thermostat gasket.

I still need to know what happened. Did I blow my head gaskets and that blew my radiator? Gonna get those gaskets tomorrow hopefully and get going on re assembly. Im just gonna take my time and do it per correct torque sequence and specs....
uhhgggg. Gonna be real upset if its still overheating. I replaced the radiator but not the head gaskets which I just got yesterday.
This time also im gonna re torque em after initial start up and cool down... anything im missing???

[1972hiboy]

I'd get those heads checked for cracks while while you have them off.

[Ranchero50]

You must use the dowels. Otherwise the gaskets don't line up and you'll risk putting compression gasses in the coolant and blowing it up again.

[Jacksdad]

When I pulled the heads off my FE a few years ago, there were no dowels either. First time I'd seen that in an engine that was clearly meant to have them. Eventually tracked some down at a machine shop, but the owner told me I didn't need them. Other than gluing them in place, I don't see a way to position the gaskets while you fit the heads - the angle on the deck would have them sliding off every time. I could see it maybe working if the motor was on an engine stand and could be rotated, but in the truck it would be tough. With dowels it was easy - if you consider kneeling on the motor and gently lowering two lumps of cast iron on to the block easy

.

[1guydude]

Update. I did have those guide dowels.in.
Ill look for some cracking but i think my main problem was the torqueing and sequencing. I did my intake manifold like a head. Started in the middle and worked.out.
Also
Gonna play with my torque wrench at 10 or 20lbs just to make sure im doing it right and getting the noise from the wrench i wanna hear. Id hate to take my time and put it all back together correctly to still get overheating and fluid in the cylinders :/

Gonna research the intake manifold gaskets.on the inside of the head towards the manifold. Make sure i get those right.
D

[Ranchero50]

Just get the pressed multi layer ones from Fel Pro. Don't buy the felt ones, they suck.

[tnlprt]

Though I have only installed head gaskets in Subaru engines, I have torn apart some FE engines, and I recall that there is a definite orientation to the gaskets-they are either marked or shaped in ways that make it difficult to install them improperly. Missing dowel pins could allow the heads to move relative to the block, so be sure to get a set of them-Summit comes to mind as a possible source.
The fault could also be with the intake gasket, as tnlprt noted, so you should replace that as well-I think you have to remove it to get to the head gaskets on an FE anyway, and it seems that you shouldn't re-use the old one.
While you have it apart, consider doing a full rebuild. If you rebuild half of the engine, you will have problems with the other half down the road, with the eventual result being you will have to tear it apart again to get it right, costing you additional time and money compared to doing it all at once.

The FE head gasket will go on backwards and it will look like it is correct

Pretty common occurrence

The reason the gaskets are marked FRONT on 1 end

Put them on backwards and you will experience overheating

[tnlprt]

Do NOT use Felpro Print O Seal intake gaskets ...they do not like antifreeze

[colnago]

If you rebuild half of the engine, you will have problems with the other half down the road, with the eventual result being you will have to tear it apart again to get it right, costing you additional time and money compared to doing it all at once.

I was originally going to rebuild just the heads, but a friend said the same thing. Once things are tight in the top end, it will only highlight how leaky the bottom end is. It's been a PITA, and I've probably done half of it wrong, but I think I finally see light at the end of the tunnel.

Joseph

[71Fe2O3]

Working on engines can be frustrating-there are many steps and many places to make mistakes. Keep trying, keep learning-knowledge comes at a cost-accept and learn from your mistakes.

I have learned a lot about these engines from an engine rebuilding book written by Steve Christ-he offers a lot of detail and down-to-earth advice.
https://www.amazon.com/How-Rebuild-BIG- ... 0895860708

[1guydude]

am I correct that the only places the coolant could get into the cylinder would be the head gaskets and intake manifold gaskets? My head gaskets had FRONT on em and on the front. U can flip em over and they say front on the other side as well. I just placed them so the openings were in the back and the front was blocked. So I think I got that right. My intake manifold gaskets where the heads meet up....im not sure about.
They have beads on em that im guessing face the manifold? Also they had a port blocked off on the manifold at the rear. All the openings lined up but that one on both sides in the rear. Still have to do some clean up on the manifold and tonight at work I printed some torques specs and the sequence for the heads and manifold so I have instructions! LOL.
Really hoping I get this right this time round.
-d

[1guydude]

is it possible my water ways and block are just rusted up?! Should I probe around in there with something long?!
Maybe I should pull my bottom radiator hose and spray my garden hose up in there?
ugh. I just don't like trying to take my time and put it all back together to have the same problem. Have I said that yet?! Lol
-d