so i think by using search and google I have actually confused myself more now
as you all know - i have a '67 352 which 2 barrel which i assume is the 208HP version in my f100. I believe this is a stock 352 from 1967 - it even has the tag on the coil bolt ! I have the engine out of the truck now - so am going to de-gunk it - and will be able to get all the casting numbers this weekend.
I read that there were up to 300 HP 352's - from the galaxies(???) with 4 barrel set ups.....
so my question is if I put an edelbrock performer 4 barrel intake on my engine - with a good 4 barrel carb - and headers - will I get to the 300 HP figure or not ? - using the stock heads.
also can I just swap a cam while the engine is out to get a bit more (I want off the line acceleration) and if so what cam should I go for.
this is assuming that the rest of the engine checks out ok.
Thanks for all your patience whilst this Brit tries to get to grips with these engines
Stephen
thanks
Stephen
(1967 F100, FE352, 2wd, 3 on the tree, flareside)
I'm not sure about the 352, but the 390's had a high compresion motor in the car, and a low compresion motor for low end tourqe in the trucks. And unless I'm way off help me out guy's there was close to 100hp difference in thier ratings.
well not too much $1000 or so - if i was going to spend much more - i might as well goto 390 + 0.050 etc etc...which at some point i might do - so i was thinking of getting parts that would wok on the 352 right now and then also work when I take it to 390-410.
so may be intake,carb,cam + headers - do you think that will get me close - I am starting to believe i have the low compression truck pistons in - so probably can't do too much !
thanks
Stephen
(1967 F100, FE352, 2wd, 3 on the tree, flareside)
Don't waste your money on headers for your low compression truck FE. I had a 352 that ran great and I went to headers and noticed NOTHING. No performance or mileage gains whatsoever.
They incorporate a heat shield in the design, which helps keep the heat from the manifolds deflected from the plug wires.
I personally would use them even if the manifolds and heads were brand new!!!
Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools talk because they have to say something.--Plato
Why is it that there's seldom time to fix it right the first time, but there's always time to fix it right the second time???
That's not an oil leakThat's SWEATfrom all thatHORSEPOWER!!
HP = speed tourqe is the twisting force put out. the harder it twists the faster it will go, but you need horsepower to keep that speed if that makes any sense.
I have the original 352 with no rebuild in my '67. I put some Flowtech long tube headers, edelbrock aluminum 390 performer intake, and a 600cfm holley carburetor on. It was a pretty good power gain, and a little better fuel mileage. And I imagine with headers, carb, intake, and cam you could make some decent numbers, and stay in your price range.
My Project Thread (Not updated in years.) 1967 F-100, Shortbed, 351W - 72mm Single Turbo - Megasquirt MS3x Engine Management, Tremec TKO 500, Ford 9" - Strange Nodular Center Section - Strange 35 Spline Axles - Strange Full Spool - Caltracs - DJM Drop Kit, Crown Vic IFS Swapped - 2 Coils Cut, Power Steering, Power 4 Wheel Disc Brakes, Paint - Kona Blue
my 352 with a cast iron 390 intake stock manifolds and such. I could feel a big difference just going from 2 to four barrel... In granny gear itll about lift the front of the truck off the ground if i get on the gas
I don't really care about brands Chevy Ford Dodge ...as long as it doesn't sound like two old dudes farting in a coffee can. http://s169.photobucket.com/albums/u223/imabaka70/ Projects listed on the left side
WOOOT!! i passed my mechanics classes. Now working as a mechanic and waiting to go for my ASE certifications.
stephen44 wrote: so i have only 50 psi in one cylinder - goes back up with a bit of oil - rest are around 140 - so I think 0.030 over is probably in order !
Yeah, that is a problem, need to get it apart and have a look, you might get lucky and find a stuck ring or bad valve and not have to bore it. My advice on car pistons still stands, but you budget is going to get blown if it needs much (maybe any) machine work. My machine shop bill alone was several times your total budget, of coures I tend to get a little OCD about that kind of stuff.
stephen44 wrote:Can you suggest a "Put a decent dual pattern cam in it." - looking for red light to red light performance only
My suggestion would be a Crane 343941/343942, but since Crane does not appear to be rising from the ashes... going to take some research, Lunati or Crower probably...