a wheel almost became a projectile

mouse · Post by **mouse** » Sat Jul 18, 2009 1:18 am

I was at a gas station puting gas in my truck and doing triple cheeks, I found one wheel with loss nuts and two broken studs. I took my impact and hammered all my lug nuts down, that was the only one that was lose. since my new rims require a larger stud I am put all lager studs in, what has interchange rear drums and front disk for a 71 f250 2wd. I put steel bushing over the stud to fill the void and made sure nut would tighten down

65 66 Ford · Post by **65 66 Ford** » Sat Jul 18, 2009 11:52 am

Sounds like you have the wrong style of lug nuts.

mouse · Post by **mouse** » Sat Jul 18, 2009 12:27 pm

the wheels came off a 94 f250 and they are not sized mag lug nuts. most all the 80-97 f250/350 I have seen have 9/16 studs and was wondering if drums/rotors and hubs would fit from that era ( I know they have steerlings), I am going down to the junk yard to see what I can find off a dent

lee_ford · Post by **lee_ford** » Sat Jul 18, 2009 4:19 pm

mouse wrote:…I took my impact and hammered all my lug nuts down,…

That was where you went wrong. NEVER, I repeat, NEVER use an impact to tighten your lugs. Unless you use this impact like tire shops do, to ONLY tighten lug nuts. An impact is usually set to put way too much torque out. What a tire shop will do to SET their impacts is tighten a nut then use a torque wrench to check it. If too tight they back their impact off until it is just right. Plus they never “Hammer” them down.

The studs that broke may have caused the others to be holding more weight. The loose nuts may be on stretched studs.

As for the spacers, if they fill the gap, they should work just fine as long as you do not over strain the studs by over tightening them.

Let us know what you find. Plus a picture of those wheels on your Bump might be cool to see.

Lee

mouse · Post by **mouse** » Sat Jul 18, 2009 5:34 pm

all I had wile I was at the gas station to tighten up my wheel was my impact and I did not have my tank filled (it was at 73psi). I used a torque wrench to tighten them up originally, I know about how tight my impact sets nut/bolts and at what setting.

lee_ford · Post by **lee_ford** » Sat Jul 18, 2009 8:10 pm

I am glad to hear you did not HAMMER them down like you said. I did not mean to insult your ability to do the job. Sorry!

As for those wheels, they are aluminum and need mag style nuts. Using your method, the weak points I point to in the drawing will begin to wear. After a short time the nuts and the wheels will become loose. Even if you get a tight fit, as you notice in my drawing, the spacer rides on the peaks of the threads. As this wears down the truck will be riding on the nuts and cause that area of the wheel to support all the weight and wear quicker. Mag nuts put the weight of the truck on the threads of the stud closer to the hub.

Here is a quick drawing.

WheelNut.JPG

One solution is to find some mag nuts that fit the holes in the wheels and your studs. Or have your spindles and axles drilled to use the 9/16th studs and get the original nuts.

Lee

mouse · Post by **mouse** » Sat Jul 18, 2009 9:50 pm

I understand what your saying but I couldn't find mag nuts to fit it at the time, they are eagle series 143 and they call for acorn nuts. I have bought a set of 9/16 studs and will start tearing it down as soon as I got free time

lee_ford · Post by **lee_ford** » Sun Jul 19, 2009 1:59 am

Before you tear it down too far, check these guys out. They may have just what you need.

http://www.ezaccessory.com

It just looks like in the pic that they are NOT tapered for acorn nuts. I know the eagle web sit says acorn, but it said that on every wheel that I looked at. Maybe they use washers in the hole first to give the acorn bevel something to grip.

Anyway, good luck with it.

Lee

AK F100 · Post by **AK F100** » Sun Jul 19, 2009 1:51 pm

That style of Eagle Wheel take an acorn nut. The flat space in the recessed hole is just how they are mcahined to fit a socket in there. I'll bet if you take a lug off one of the other wheels that did not come loose you will see the tapered hole. You should find a set of "Bulge Seat Lug Nuts". I have about 10 years in the tire/wheel business and that wheel came out long after the Mag Shank Lug Wheels stopped being the norm.

Something like this: http://www.streetperformance.com/part/g ... 197xl.html And you can also get them in 1/2" R.H Thread, so no need to switch to the larger studs. Unless you just want to....

mouse · Post by **mouse** » Sun Jul 19, 2009 11:28 pm

this type of nut I think will work, if not I will just get a set bulge seat ones. I am going to a wheel and tire place to get that wheel rebalanced tomorrow and see what all lug nuts they got

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRR-2 ... mage=large

AK F100 · Post by **AK F100** » Mon Jul 20, 2009 12:28 am

mouse wrote: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRR-2 ... mage=large

This is another type that I would suggerst also. Just make sure the lower shank part does not bottom out in the hole and it will stabalize the stud a little more.

I have used both in different situations and had great results.

Good luck, Rich

mouse · Post by **mouse** » Mon Jul 20, 2009 6:29 pm

I got a set of acorn/mag nuts that work good and I have replaced the broken studs

AK F100 · Post by **AK F100** » Mon Jul 20, 2009 6:58 pm

Good deal.

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