Master Cylinder Replacement Question

[The_Eman]

1968 F-100
Manual Brakes. No Booster

I am attempting to replace my MC but I cannot remove the old push rod from the old MC.
I've removed the old MC and I'm ready to bench bleed and replace the new MC but I need to get the old push rod off the old MC and put the old pushrod on the new MC.

Here are my question.
1. Is it normal to remove the old push rod and use it in the new MC or did I purchase the wrong MC?
I purchased a New (not remanf) from Checker
2. The chilton's manual shows a retaining clip that I cannot access. How do I remove the darn pushrod.

thx,

Eric

[flyboy2610]

#1.: Yes. You reuse the old pushrod.
Those pushrods can a real PIA to get out. They held in by a clip, and force is the only way to get them out.
You try clamping the MC tightly in a bench vise, and use a come along or ratchet strap (attached to something solid and heavy) to persuade it out. They usually go back into the new MC much easier than they came out of the old one.

[seattle67]

I got mine out by pulling really hard while moving the pushrod around in a circular motion. I didn't think it was going to come out at first, but I really went at it and it popped out.

[fordman]

the circular motion thing is probably going to be the way to do it. up and down left and right in that kind of circle.

[The_Eman]

Thanks Guys

How easily does the push rod go into the new MC. I foresee more difficulty and frustration.

[fordman]

once it is out clean up the end with hte clip onit. it should just snap right in.

[Alvin in AZ]

Is there any good reason to have the two parts clipped together like that tho? :/
My '75 came with an adjustable pushrod that's still in it and it's never had a clip on it.

This weekend just finished putting a new Bendix in it and the new pushrod and its
boot is laying here on the counter. LOL :)
(no need for that boot with power brakes;)

The '75 parts truck had been changed out tho and the push rod was clipped in. :/
I clamped the rod in the vise and used the master clylinder like a slide hammer and
yanked the rod loose, the clip came out in pieces. :) After getting it apart turns out
that master cylinder is history anyway, it's got rusted pits, same as the one off my
'75 I bought new. The pedal was slowly sinking at traffic lights is all.

BTW, there was no damage to the master cylinder or any of its internal parts from
yanking the rod out. :)

Was thinking about how a guy could line bore the rusted cylinders and sleeve them
with a thin walled stainless steel pipe and sell them for big bucks, maybe? :)

Alvin in AZ

[The_Eman]

I thought I would report back.

I made the repair and my brakes now work well, thanks to all for the help. I would not have completed this w/o assistance from the group.
A couple of comments.
1. I couldn't get the darn push rod out b/c I don't have a vise so I ended up removing the clip that holds the assembly in the mc and then I used a reciprocating saw to remove the pc that surrounds the push rod.
2. The fittings on the new mc were a bit different from the stock unit. One brake line screwed directly into the mc, but on the old unit, both had a fittings that screwed into the mc and then the brake lines screwed into the fittings. This threw me for a loop for a while. I thought I had the wrong mc.

Thanks to all.

[fordman]

alot of the masters come with two extra fittings so they will fit the brake lines properly. its standard practice to use those fittings.