Ok. So I got the oil pump changed out on my 70 F-100 360 this past weekend . Thank you for those of you that helped me out with my post on that subject. And by the way, it does suck changing those out. I've basically been step by step getting this truck in running, driving condition after it was left sitting up for a long time (like 8-10) years. I've replace all the basics and now it's time for the exhaust manifold gaskets . The bolts are most definitely seized in there. For the past 2 days, I've been spraying PB Blaster on them and trying to tap them back and forth with a wrench and hammer to loosen them up a little. So far,...I've got the front driver side loose. That's it! Any advice on this would surely be appreciated.
You can try heating the ear of the manifold and head. Hopefully that will work for you. My luck I always end up snaping 1 or 2 the pull the head to drill and retap the hole. When you put it back together use anti-seize to help stop it from happing again.
Mike
1968 F100 SWB project/parts
1969 F250 Ranger LWB 360/C6
1972 F250 4X4 Plow Truck LWB 360/4 Speed
1968 Fairlane 2Dr Coupe Project
1968 Mustang Coupe project, wifes car
without heat your asking for trouble.
If you don't have access to oxy/acetylene get yourself a bottle of Map gas. Like propane but yellow bottle. It burns hotter than propane. Takes longer than oxy/acetylene but it works.
Get the ear red hot they'll come right out.
I appreciate the help guys. I'm going to try all of the above. I really don't feel like having to pull the heads or the motor to drill any of these out. I'll keep ya'll posted.
Vitamin-C wrote:I appreciate the help guys. I'm going to try all of the above. I really don't feel like having to pull the heads or the motor to drill any of these out. I'll keep ya'll posted.
I just put headers on my truck, and to get mine out I used my oxy acetylene torch setup from work. I would heat the ear until it's glowing red and the bolts came out like butter. Just be careful of nearby wires and things of that nature! Plus buy a good tap and run through all the threads to clean them up. Reinstall stainless or grade 8 bolts with plenty of anti-seize. Good luck!
Joe
1971 F100 flareside 8ft
1964 Chrysler New Yorker Town and Country wagon
2006 Dodge Ram 2500 cummins
2005 Ford Ranger
This topic should be addressed on the new "bump Wiki" section.
I broke a couple and was able to drill out and retap without removing the heads. I did have the fender off at the time though.
Steve
1970 F350 DRW Factory 9' Platform/Stake, 360, T18.
Passed on to new care taker July, 2013
convincor wrote:without heat your asking for trouble.
If you don't have access to oxy/acetylene get yourself a bottle of Map gas. Like propane but yellow bottle. It burns hotter than propane. Takes longer than oxy/acetylene but it works.
Get the ear red hot they'll come right out.
Sometimes you don't need to get them glowing red hot for it to work. Any kind of heat is better then nothing in my book. I like to put heat on it and then shoot a little penetrating oil and repeat a few times. Seams to work for me! JMHO
Wes Adams FORD428CJ
Built Ford Tuff With Good Ford Stuff
79 F-250 X-Cab 4x4 6.9 Turbo Diesel
64 Falcon X-Ram 428
55 FORD Truck 4-link Rides on air with X-Ram 428
67 Stang 351 C/J
2000 Yamaha V-MAX VMOA#4277
What has always worked for me is to heat them up just to a slight glow and rub some paraffin wax on/near the bolts/nuts and then let them cool. The cooling draws the wax into the threads and 'viola, they come right out! YMMV.
Rednecks, white trucks and Pabst Blue Ribbon beer!
willowbilly3 wrote:I torch em out and put smaller bolts with nuts on the back, never have to deal with that again.
That works but it's pretty ghetto. I'd say fix it correctly.
Well I wouldn't do it to a Shelby KR500. But it sure beats pulling the heads or the engine on an old truck that somebody else already broke the bolts off in. On the 390 in my 69 I did every trick in the book, including days of soaking in penetrant, hammering, heating the tabs red hot and still ended up with 2 broke off in one head. Pull the head or engine? doubt it, get out the button tip for the victor, carefully blow through and use 5/16 grade 8 bolts and nuts. I even put them in the good holes so the frozen bolt issue never comes up again on that engine.
Great ideas have always encounter violent opposition from mediocre minds.
. Thank you for those of you that helped me out with my post on that subject. And by the way, it does suck changing those out. I've basically been step by step getting this truck in running, driving condition after it was left sitting up for a long time (like 8-10) years. I've replace all the basics and now it's time for the exhaust manifold gaskets 
. The bolts are most definitely seized in there. For the past 2 days, I've been spraying PB Blaster on them and trying to tap them back and forth with a wrench and hammer to loosen them up a little. So far,...I've got the front driver side loose. That's it! Any advice on this would surely be appreciated.
heat
