Bed bump repair question.

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rdaniel911
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Bed bump repair question.

Post by rdaniel911 »

Bed bump repair suggestions needed. I'm working on the bump a short wheel base styleside. The top of the bump where it rolls into the bed has rusted out on one side, the length of the bump, the actual bump is in pretty good shape all the way up to the top, just where it rolls in to attach to the bed. Anyone have any suggestions on fixing this without replacing the bed, or that entire panel. I would include pics, but it's hard to see, i'm cleaning it out. maybe then I can post one you can see it on.
Robert & Linda
2011 F-150 Supercab
2017 Ford Edge
1969 Mustang Fastback
1968 F-100
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69bumptruck
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re: Bed bump repair question.

Post by 69bumptruck »

Pics would help. Anything can be saved, it just depends on how much time/money you want to put into it. I've seen a few guys weld that seam. Best thing is to clean it all out down to bare metal. Then evaluate it. Are the seams the only place with rust? If so, then it's worth trying to save a shortie. :2cents:
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67mann
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re: Bed bump repair question.

Post by 67mann »

Anythings possible---this one is a pain though,its where all the factory spot welds are----I've got the same prob (and no options to replace)and have yet to dive in to fixing it. Both sides on mine are dropping over wheelwells(go figure)and the rest is in good shape. My thoughts right now are to take some 3/16x3/4(which I have)flat steel from undernieth and bolt up through. Then weld in place,pull the bolts and weld in the holes. I
don't see any other options----unless you drill out all the spot welds and get a new panel :2cents:

I'will post pic's in my project thread when I do :thup:
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jzjames
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re: Bed bump repair question.

Post by jzjames »

For that crease you are talking about on your styleside bed, I will suggest this.

Take a hacksaw blade, and break it in half. This will be your tool to rip out as much rust and scale out of that seam as you possibly can. Take the broken blade, and with the teeth going in the right direction, use it by hand to pull out the rust, all along the seam. When it is clean with the broken hacksaw blade (no more rust material is coming out) use your wire brush - a hand one - and wire brush it good. Then use some heavy grit paper, like 150 grit, and sand the paint along both sides of the seam. Now youre ready for some...Por15.
Use a small brush to scrub it in there, all along the seam. Shove it in there as deep into the seam as you can. Go back and brush a second coat in there and get a good thick layer in there. Now its cleaned out and filled with Por 15. Before the Por15 is completely dry you can hit it with a line of Rusty Metal Primer (Rustoleum brand). Let it all dry for at least a few days. Then go back with sanpaper and a shaped block, and sand the line of the seam so it is looking clean and straight. You may even have to sand it til you see some bare metal showing through in spots, but the idea is to shape that seam so that it looks stock. Hit again with Rusty Metal primer. Always let that product dry a good few days. Its still drying out after a week.. You should be ready to paint. And yes, moisture can still come through from the backside of the seam. If there is any way to put sealant into that seam from the back side, it would be a good idea to try and do that. If you cant, then the seam could be compromised again, somewhere down the road, but it will be a while. (If you see hairline cracks in the seam after a year or two, fill them again, but this time you can just use the RMP with a small artists brush and push it into the cracks.)

This is how Ive treated the seams on my 67. I have a stepside, but the bed has those type of seams, and the cab seams have all been treated this way, and they are holding up very well. Rust is not coming through.
This might seem like alot work, but by doing it by hand, and being really anal about it you can see what youre doing, and get a good result..It goes pretty fast.

FWIW :D
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