aftermarket springs anyone?

[erikd428]

Anyone try an aftermarket (front coil) spring on these trucks? I noticed that summit sells some universal springs by EIBACH that are 5 1/2 inches in Diameter and I meased ours and that is what they seem to come out to. they come in 13 and 11 inch heights I believe. Any reason why this spring wouldn't work in our trucks?

[FORDification]

I guess I just have to ask.....why? What are you trying to do? Regular factory replacement springs are readily available AFAIK, as well as lowering springs, though they really can't be used by themselves for lowering purposes (unless they're no more than 1"-2").

I didn't look, but did they give the spring rate for those springs?

[erikd428]

sorry I didn't make my intentions more clear.
I am looking to lower the truck an inch or two, plus increase the spring rate. The eibach springs I was looking at are rated at 700 they make stiffer as well. Where else can I get an aftermarket lowering spring. I realize I can just cut the stock ones as well but I would like one a little stiffer than stock.

[FORDification]

The stock front truck springs are already a lot stiffer than that, and trust me, once you cut the stock springs, they'll be stiffer!

In '69, for example, the stock Ford F100 front coils were available with 1055, 1175, and 1265 lb. spring rates. The F350 springs were available in 1365 and 1430 lb. spring rates. You could easily pick up a pair of F250 (or even F350) springs for next to nothing and cut one coil off each, which would be stiffer than what you've got now, plus would lower the 1"-2" you're looking for.

Just my

[layedout72]

I wouldnt ever cut springs personally......

[71 LONG BED]

Why not?

[67heavystepside]

[FORDification]

If you're worried about heat build-up, don't be. The tiny bit of heat generated at the very end of the coil by a cut-off wheel isn't going to affect the temper of the spring steel at all. How do you think the factory cuts springs?

Now, I agree...you don't want to HEAT the spring, which is how some uneducated rednecks might do a lowering job, because that will definitely destroy the spring. It kills the temper...and while it might look good for a very short period of time, the spring will continue to settle until it's completely collapsed.

[qman]

How do you think the factory cuts springs?

Funny you should ask. I just happened to see an episode of "Made in America" hosted by none other than Cliff Claven from Cheers the other day. They visited a shop that happened to make vehicle springs. They had a big old machine that took straight bar in one end and a coil spring squirted out the other in a matter of seconds. Once the coil was complete the machine just chopped it off in a fraction of a second. This machine cranked out a spring about every 3-4 seconds.

[FORDification]

How do you think the factory cuts springs?

Funny you should ask. I just happened to see an episode of "Made in America" hosted by none other than Cliff Claven from Cheers the other day. They visited a shop that happened to make vehicle springs. They had a big old machine that took straight bar in one end and a coil spring squirted out the other in a matter of seconds. Once the coil was complete the machine just chopped it off in a fraction of a second. This machine cranked out a spring about every 3-4 seconds.

Wish I'd seen that...sounds interesting. I wonder how they can set up the spring rates with such a machine.

layedout72: Cutting one full coil should drop it the amount you want, plus it'll stiffen it up a tad. The key to cutting a coil is localizing the heat. You don't want to use a torch, that's for sure...but with a good cut-off wheel, you'll be through the coil in 8-10 seconds, not long enough to build up enough heat to damage anything. You could even just cut a little, quench it to cool the metal, then cut a little more, repeat as often as necessary until you're all the way through.

Heck, if you're that worried about heat build-up, use a hack saw. You definitely ain't gonna generate any heat doing it that way.....well, at least not in the spring, anyway.

[68F250]

Eaton says it's acceptable to cut a spring using a cut-off wheel or even a die grinder with an abrasive wheel. They don't recommend cutting off more than 1 inch from the overall length of the coil though.

There's a funny ratio between the spring and the front suspension, the amount the spring is cut is multiplied when the spring is installed in the front suspension. For cars it is between 1.5:1 and 2:1. This means that cutting a spring by 1 inch would mean dropping the ride height between 1.5 and 2 inches. Not sure what it would be in our trucks because the pivot is so far away compared to a car, probably brings it back closer to 1:1. This only applies to the front, rear spring changes are a 1:1 relationship with a solid axle.

[erikd428]

Good info guys, especially on the spring rates. I was also thinking about 3/4 ton springs as well. So I think that is what I will end up doing. Thanks for everones help.

[green70]

i've learned from expeience you should always start with half coil,you can always cut more but you cant put it back,4"cut off wheel works best, cutting changes the rate,but when you lower your car/truck you usually want it a bit stiffer anyways....

[qman]

I wonder how they can set up the spring rates with such a machine.

I'm sure if you coil any kind of steel into a spring it will have a spring rate. I'm guessing that the spring rate is already predetermined before the stock goes in.

[67highboy]