disc brake ?
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disc brake ?
The proportioning valve for disc breaks is it necessary to wind up all that steel tubing or can it be cut to size? From the booster to the valve does this serve a purpose and could some one tell me the difference between the drum & disc proportioning valve.
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i don't know about the tubing. it may have something to do with keeping the fluid cool? i know on newer model fords the brake fluid can boil when running the a/c and the brakes will fade out on you. it happened to me coming back from dallas in the company van.
the drum block is more of a connection point than it is anything from what i know. the proportioning valve equalizes the amount of fluid put to the brakes front and back.
the drum block is more of a connection point than it is anything from what i know. the proportioning valve equalizes the amount of fluid put to the brakes front and back.
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re: disc brake ?
Absolutely not! Do NOT install a drum-brake distribution block on a disc-brake system. While it'll work, it'll also cause your rear brakes to lock up prematurely. The disc-brake proportioning valve does just what it's name implies....it proportions brake fluid to the two different styles of brakes. The distribution block simply distributes the same amount of fluid to all four corners, and your stopping power will definitely be adversely affected. If you're gonna do the job, do it right.
The extra winding at the master cylinder is also highly recommended. It's purpose is to minimize the brake line vibration, which will eventually lead to brake line failure. The master cylinder is mounted on the firewall of the cab, which is bolted to the frame with rubber mounts....there will be movement between the cab and frame, and without that extra winding to absorb the movement/vibrations, your brakelines will experience metal fatique and fail way before their time. To put it into perspective....you wouldn't want to install a hard fuel line directly from the tank to the fuel pump. The vibrations of the engine would kill that line in no time. It's the purpose of the rubber line between the pump and the hard line to absorb the vibrations. The same holds true for the brake lines.
Again....if you're going to do this, do it right.![Wink ;)](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
The extra winding at the master cylinder is also highly recommended. It's purpose is to minimize the brake line vibration, which will eventually lead to brake line failure. The master cylinder is mounted on the firewall of the cab, which is bolted to the frame with rubber mounts....there will be movement between the cab and frame, and without that extra winding to absorb the movement/vibrations, your brakelines will experience metal fatique and fail way before their time. To put it into perspective....you wouldn't want to install a hard fuel line directly from the tank to the fuel pump. The vibrations of the engine would kill that line in no time. It's the purpose of the rubber line between the pump and the hard line to absorb the vibrations. The same holds true for the brake lines.
Again....if you're going to do this, do it right.
![Wink ;)](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
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Thanks , i got it . Just as you said had though the same thing "proportioning" valve
equalising volume of fluid from disc to drum ? My little saying is "The reason for doing things right today is tomorrow ! Winding a master cylinder , ok valve is supported bye steel tubing alone, is there a fitting vibration factor i should think about , coil tubing clock wise or does this not apply ?
![Wink :wink:](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)