Cardone booster for '67: Updated - please help!

[Supermike]

Hey Steve, you said:

There is the bolt a plastic bushing and a plastic ring that fits snuggly over the round part of the bolt towards the head of it. the bolt goes into the stop light switch then the plastic bushing goes inbetween the tabs on the switch and the bolt continues through the tabs where is is head in place by the ring that snugs over it and that bolts to the peddle.

Do you (or does anyone) have a picture of this?! Perhaps he left that bushing off?


Also... I forgot to add that I requested he save the old MC so I could get my core, and he almost threw it away (even though it's fine), and he threw away the box the booster came along with the directions (I made a copy before giving it to him, per Seattle67's advice).

[Supermike]

Mike,
As far as the brake lights not working, I would start by looking at Steve's picture and make sure it is installed correct. Then I would check that the plug on the switch is pushed on all the way. A connector kind of pushed its way out of the plug and wasn't connected properly after I did my booster.

Also, when I installed my booster, at first the pedal went almost to the floor when I pushed on it. The brakes worked well, but it took way to much pedal. What fixed that was adjusting the rod that is between the booster and the master cylinder. The booster should have come with instructions for that adjustment, but if you cant find them I think I explained in my original post how to do it. Im pretty confident it is that adjustment being off that is giving you the low pedal.

Installing the booster really didn't change the "feel" of the pedal on mine at all.

Good suggestions... thanks! I forgot about that little plug part that is part of the switch. It may be loose, or perhaps one of the connecters was loose. I'm pretty peeved I didnt have more time to look at it myself.

Also... that's what I expected and suspected on the pedal feel... that I have to use way too much pedal for it. I suspect that push rod needs to be adjusted. I guess if he doesn't get it, I'll have to do it myself.

[SteveC]

hmm sorry no picture i forgot to take that one all it does is go inside the pedal rod to kep it tight in there and hold the brake light switch and the plastic ring just fits snugly on the other side of the switch to hold it all together. maybe some one on here would have a picture...if i could id take it apart again to show you but its 50 miles away

and just as a thought check your fuse..for the brake lights

[Supermike]

Thanks for the suggestions... good idea on the fuse, though... wouldn't that also make the turn signals not work?

I hope to talk to him within the hour and get the ball rolling on this... he's had it long enough, and this job is NOT that complicated. I would've done it myself if it weren't for the fact I was replacing the M/C and having an old electric/hydrolic brake system line removed.

I'll keep you posted.

[SteveC]

hmm on the 67 i think there are different fuses cause i had a problem with the turns , wiper washer and heater not working at all...but the brake lights work...turns out i had no power going to that three things circuit so after i supplied power back to the circuit every thing work again.

[Supermike]

Ok... I got the truck back!

Overall, the braking was MUCH improved over the manual brakes. With the manuals I felt I had to put all my weight on them just to stop the truck. With the booster, I pressed the pedal down the first time and almost bit the steering wheel!

That said, I still feel there's a little too much travel in the pedal before my brake lights come on and braking begins. However, my mechanic said that if he turned it one more turn, they started rubbing. I'm not sure where else to adjust it?

As for the brake lights... he said the wires were loose. That's possible. I'll probably pull the connectors to the switch and put some dielectric grease on them. I'm not 100% sure that the switch is mounted right, though. It looks to be at a bit of an angle. I need to look at it more when I have daylight and time.

Also, to follow up on previous discussion... there IS a small gap now where the old MC formerly came through the firewall. As was indicated by seattle67, the rubber "boot" that comes with the Cardone booster is NOT long enough to fill that hole. I looked it over, but I also don't see where the rubber cap on the end of my Bendix MC would work... it's specifically designed for the MC. I think I need an "original" boot if I want to fill that hole. Either that, or.... anyone have any ideas?

And finally... I pulled out the old corroded electric/hydrolic brakes. That sure cleaned up the column and gives me a few extra inches of knee room! It also helped that I now have 4 less wires running through the firewall!

[SteveC]

i used one of the original plastic covers that ford used...but it was to long and i had to trim it down but you might want to check sizes before you go and cut on it........the adjust ment was between the master and the booster...the rod that goes from the booster into the master should have a screw type tip on it at least mine did....you can kinda see what i am talking about it is the rod stickin out of the middle of the booster...to adjust it you have to take the two bolts off holdint the master and slide it forward a bitnot to much cause you dont want to break the brake lines.....maybe seatle67 could discribe how to adjust it a little better

[Supermike]

Yeah... I think one of those original covers is what I need, IF I can find one. They're made to attach through the firewall and cover the push rod better, I think.

As for the adjustment between the MC and booster... yes... that's where he adjusted it. He said one more turn of it was too tight, and to go the other way gave it too much pedal. I don't know how much he experimented, but he said when he went one more turn, it was causing the brakes to catch/rub.

How much travel, if any, do you guys have before your brake LIGHTS come on and you start getting braking action? Mine is MUCH better than it was last night, but I still have about 1" or so of pedal travel before the lights come on and I start slowing....

[SteveC]

hmm that would make sense wasnt quite reading it write then the next question is....how new are your drums and brake pads??

[fordman]

the pedal should really only go about an inch down before the brakes start working good. but if you only have an inch before the brake light comes on then that doesnt sound right. i dont think the adjustment has to go a full turn does it?. well i guess maybe it does something just doesnt sound right.

[Supermike]

Good question on the drums and shoes... the truth is, I don't know. The mechanic said they looked good and look to have life in them, and the PO said they were fairly recent. But he also said the engine had been "recently rebuilt" and it was 8 years ago. LOL!

Ok... so if the pedal should travel an inch or so before the brakes kick in, I might be close. I wonder if maybe that screw can be fine tuned some more? But yeah, it takes that full inch before the brake lights kick on. Perhaps because I have a brand new switch? Maybe it needs to be worked in some to be more sensitive?

What I'm most afraid of is air in the lines... he said he bled them several times, and I trust his skill. But perhaps this travel in the pedal is "spongy-ness"?

He also left that warning light unhooked... that drives me up the wall. I really wanted that working correctly.

[fordman]

oh i read that wrong. i thought the pedal travelled with in a inch of the brake warning light coming on. you actually sound good then. if you can push on the brake pedal and hold it and keep pushing hard and it doesnt give slowly to the floor then the air is gone.

[SteveC]

yea a inch is pretty good there was a around a inch on mine before the brakes kicked in but never hurts to check the drums...some peoples of not bad are a 1/4 of pads left and brake drums that are at there limits....maybe ask the guy who did the brakes how much of the pads and drums were left...if you want check your self...mine are OK but will need replace with in a year or two....but congrates on getting the up grade to power...and i know how you feel about bitting the wheel...when i first drove my truck home i had manual brakes and after i got home i took a truck with power and about went into the windshield

[seattle67]

Mine travels about an inch before I notice the brakes working as well. If I remember correct, the adjustment instructions said anything from 3/4 to 1 inch was good. I think if you have about an inch of pedal your doing pretty well.

I may get flamed for this, but it has been my experience that when I have done some major brake work they never feel right at first, but then get better as I use them. Maybe its all in my head , but that just seems to be the way it goes for me.

[SteveC]

probally just a state of mind "hey wait a minute that brakes didnt act like that before"sindrom i can say ive been there before.