Rear-sump FE pan install in 4x2 truck; clearance problem.

[robroy]

Thanks Tim! Did you install the pan on the engine while it was in the vehicle, or out on the bench? I'm just wondering if it's possible to install with the engine already resting in the truck or not.

When you take the original main cap bolts out, does anything "fall apart" in there unless you're careful? I don't know much about these bolts or what they're for.

Thanks again for your generous advice Tim!
Robroy

[robroy]

Good morning!

Well, I went with the Milodon parts instead of the Dooley. I really like the Dooley, but I'm hesitant to remove the main cap bolts, and since Proformance Unlimited is paying for the Milodon parts, they're free.

Also, although the Dooley setup may be technically superior, I'm just not sure how many cars it has been tested in. Maybe there's really no important difference between a boat and a car engine. It's just that if I were to run in to any subtle issues in the future, I don't think I'd have many guys to compare notes with. In contrast, the Milodon part is surely installed in hundreds or thousands of cars, so may be better understood by more car guys.

And Robert's FE sounds pretty similar to mine, and he has no complaints about the Milodon setup.

Tim, thanks very much for letting me know about the Dooley regardless!

I'll post photos of the pan swap and how the new one fits. The parts will probably not arrive in time for this weekend, so it'll probably be next weekend.

Thanks again to everybody for the great advice!
Robroy

[Dragon]

I would take a torch and bend a tunnel to clear the steering, the pan you show is Milodon 8 qt pan. I have used them on 4*2 racers and with the torch dent I still put 7 quarts in my racers.

[robroy]

Hey Dragon, thanks for replying! In my case, I'm not handy with a torch nor do I know anybody who is. I think the Milodon 30740 will work well for me.

Robroy

[robroy]

Does anybody know if it's possible to replace an FE oil pan without lifting up the engine at all (while the engine remains fully in its mounts)?

I'd like to dial in the engine to frame alignment this weekend and install the new pan next weekend, but I'm not sure if I can really do them in that order. I might need to lift the engine up in order for the oil pan to clear the crankshaft parts.

Thanks!!!
Robroy

[Dragon]

Yep a Propane torch won't do it. For HVAC work I use an Air Acetylene setup and the Turbo torch top cost me 160. Air Acetylene would do it but like I said MAPP and propane would not heat a large enough area.

I am looking for another pan to cut the front sump off and add it to the rear of another front sump pan to make one long low (stock depth) pan With baffles and windage tray I would have a 9 qt pan and no sump below the cross member.

[DuckRyder]

Does anybody know if it's possible to replace an FE oil pan without lifting up the engine at all (while the engine remains fully in its mounts)?

We have had "debate" about it in the past, but I sure wouldn't try it.

Having changed an oil pump in the truck before, I think it is easier to pull the engine...

[Dragon]

Did it once never again. Up 2 inches makes a hell of an easy job out of it plus you get to see how bad the motor mounts are.

[robroy]

Hey Robert and Dragon, thanks for replying!

So I only need to raise it two inches and I should be OK then? I'm glad I asked about this, since I was planning on aligning the engine to the frame first! It sounds like I should save the alignment until after the correct pan is installed.

Thanks again!
Robroy

[thebannister8]

can you undo your steering...put the motor in , then hook up your steering

[robroy]

Hey TheBannister8, thanks for replying!

Nope, unfortunately there's no way the existing pan is going to work with the factory steering linkage. And since the existing pan has a super deep (10") rear sump, I don't think there's any feasible way to modify the linkage to make it work either.

But thanks to advice from Robert and others I have a Milodon 30740 on the way, which has roughly the same external dimensions as the factory pan. So I shouldn't have to worry about the clearance issue anymore! I can move on to the next issue to worry about.

Thanks again TheBannister8,
Robroy

[oldschoolrods]

If your worried about clean oil changes you could install one of these http://moesperformance.com/images/F104N.JPG then you just slide a hose on and right into the drain pan no mess. i know alot of over the road big trucks run them and there very common on the gensets i work on. Hope that helps

[robroy]

Hey OldSchoolRods, thanks very much for that tip!

I am going to do that. It seems like it makes a lot more sense than going to the bother of having a second drain plug made in the pan. And with this device you've recommended, I can have the hose going right down in to the drain bucket, as you've suggested. That should account for even less of a mess than I'd get using a drain plug at the front of the sump.

Thanks again--your tip probably saved me lots of time getting the custom drain plug!

Robroy

[oldschoolrods]

Hey no problem robroy, If you really want a quick clean oil change, hook a 12 Volt Pump up and suck it out through one of those valves, thats how we do it, goes fast and as long as your hose doesn't fall out no mess

[robroy]

Hey OldSchoolRods! That's a good idea, yet I'm never in a hurry, so I think I'll let gravity do the job. Thanks though!

So Proformance Unlimited is having a hard time getting their hands on the oil pan I wanted, the Milidon 30740.

Initially I heard from Steve that he couldn't get the pan through his regular channels, and that he had to order it directly from Milodon. That seemed a little funny since Summit has the pan in stock at the moment, and could get it to my doorstep in one or two days.

But since all this time has gone by I've discovered a few more options. That's the danger of time going by.

Now I'm looking at the Canton 15-820 "Road Race" FE pan:



It seems like this will fit and give me enhanced capacity and oil control, while not requiring me to remove the main cap bolts to install an unusual windage tray like the Dooley Enterprises pan.

Then again, I remember Robert's comment that I shouldn't need any special "racing" pan unless I'm launching at 5,000 RPM with slick tires installed. So perhaps the oil control element is less compelling than the notion of extra oil capacity in this case.

So how important and desirable is it to have extra oil capacity anyhow?

And any comments on this Canton pan?

Thanks!
Robroy