Proportioning Valve Question

Suspension, steering, brakes, wheels & tires

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72stepside
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re: Proportioning Valve Question

Post by 72stepside »

Just my :2cents: but...

if I go get another at the wrecking yard, I will clip the wires to the electrical plug, then splice them into my wiring, NOT remove the plug from the valve. I haven't had any luck getting them to seal back up. Both times (on different valves) I've had leaking issues.
Chris
72 F100 Stepside w/ 78 300 CID
Hedman Headers
Disc Brakes
Power Steering with 3 STILL on the tree
Comfy Crown Vic Seats

71 F250 PS, PB, AC, Auto, 390
Loooong way to go on this one!

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ford4x4fun
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Re: re: Proportioning Valve Question

Post by ford4x4fun »

FORDification wrote:A proportioning valve has two valves in it. One is a shuttle valve that separates the front and rear brake pressure circuits, and activates the pressure warning switch. The second is a pressure metering valve for the rear brakes, to reduce hydraulic pressure to the rear drums, preventing rear wheel lockup.

A proportioning valve, incidentally, is also application-specific...that is, they are metered for the vehicle on which is it mounted. You can't take one from a VW and mount it in a Ford truck and expect it to work as well as a factory setup.
Is it pretty much a swap from one to the other :? My brakes do good, with the block, but in really tight situations, my backs have locked up. One incident was a van stopped in front of me, and I had my bike in the back. They where looking for there turn, and found it all of a sudden. I am glad I don't tail gate, but I still had to drive my truck into the ditch, and around the van. The guy came and thanked me afterwords for not killing his family, but if that would add to preventing that I would like to change mine out :?
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US ARMY Retired
1971 Ford F100 4x4 (390)
2015 Ford F250 Crew Cab 6.7l
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sideoilerfe
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re: Proportioning Valve Question

Post by sideoilerfe »

Experimenting pays off! I installed the master cylinder then bled the brakes alone! Anybody ever done this? I pumped the pedal then I just used some firewood to prop in between the brake pedal and seat with a towel in front of the seat for protection. As the pedal rises as the procedure continues,I simply moved the seat back. :lol: Well, it worked! So you don't always need a second person to help you bleed the brakes.

Now the warning light stayed on. The brakes seemed a little strange but they worked. So, I again experimented (not even thinking about the light) and tried locking them up a few times. At first only the left rear locked up. Then I drove a hundred feet or so, pumped the pedal once, then tried again and both rears locked. I did this a total of 4 times and the last time all 4 locked up as they should when you stomp on the brake. I happened to look down at the light because the brakes now felt normal again and "Hey, the light went out!"

I was reading all these posts about how to reset it and I think all you have to do is bleed the entire system and then drive around a bit and lock 'em up a few times. Well, it worked for me anyway. 2 cents
Side oiler FE, see if you can catch me!!!

1970 F250 4x4 390/4spd
1968 F250 4X2 360/C6/No Rust!
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