Re-paint

[cjs_72f250]

nice! thanks for letting me know. i really like that color scheme a lot. my current color scheme is:

interior: grabber blue/rust
exterior: grabber blue peeking through off-white house paint brushed on by the previous owner

if i ever have a chance to repaint my truck, i'm strongly considering that Boxwood green with white. thanks again!

[alvinator]

hey Rangerman, i have a 69 with the same color as your truck. When I look, i thought is was mine for a moment

[69rangerman]

I hear you alvinator,

Every time I go through the photo album and see yours I'm like..

MAN that's a nice lookin rig!

I think 71longbeds got close to the same scheme too.

[1968 royal ranger]

you can do alot of it by yourself , i scraped all the seam sealer out of the upper bed seam and cleaned it real good and then jacked the truck op on its side as high as i could and the por15 ran into the seam and worked great, be sure and crawl up between the outer shell of bed and inner shell and treat the other side of seam also , i also took down my headliner and cleaned all up inside roof cavity and the best i could above doors and used por15 all around , be sure and get the back cab corners on the insidetop and bottom and clean them out and treat them ,i did same treatment to inside doors and on inside front fenders , the are real vulnerable to holding dirt in the lower brace and will rust out ,if you spray out and scrape clean with whatever you can get in there and treat it with 15 it will last nicely .just look at a few rusty trucks and that will show you the vulnerable areas,
major rust prevention , another area is both ends of bed ,underneith, in the tight areas , scrape it out and clean super good and por15 it
i hope my truck is around a long time ,i even did the inside of tailgate !!
good thing is i shouldnt have to do it again!!!!am very pleased how it turned out mike i enjoyed the time i spent working on my 68 ranger!!!!

[Supermike]

How did you get inside of the tailgate?!

[1968 royal ranger]

if you take the handle and side levers off you can get a bunch of rocks and fill up half way and swing gate around so rocks scrape loose rust ,then a piece of wire with a paint brush on it to coat ,i put tape over drain holes and also manuvered tailgate arount so paint coverage is good , you can check with flashlight through handle hole and tailgate catches ,tailgate will outlast me ha ha . i am 50 years old and i love tinkering with my old ford mike

[Tim P.]

If you have the beginnings of drip rail rust, you definately want to get that taken care of. Maybe you can get by with just that and a respray of the roof? For a daily driver, I agree that it looks just fine as it is.

I really like that color combo by the way, very classy.

Before you even think of doing anything else Get to the roof rail repair ASAP spend the $$$$ to get it fixed or your looking at $$$$$$$$ if you let it go behond this year that is not a simple bolt on fix like fenders etc. If you let that go you'll be looking at a whole cab replacement which is a big time PIA Do Not Skimp in this area or you'll be kicking yourself in the A$% down the road. I have to replace my whole cab due to this I had it repaired several yrs earlier but it wasnt done right 4 yrs later Im paying even more now. Ever see a owner trying to close his convertable top looks like at 70 or 80 mph down a highway that was mine this fall with the roof rail problem. So all the other issues you might have with that nice truck are trivial compared to the roof issue take it from me as Im going thru this now had i known this yrs before how serious this was I would have went a different route and had it fixed right. Had I had the knowledge and pleasure of this great site yrs ago I would not be telling you this now. Your an lucky guy because your being well informed early on so if you ingnore this advice now we will hearing you crying later. That is a beautiful truck. Fix That Roof!!!!!

[69rangerman]

Hey Tim,

Thanks for the encouragement! Since you mentioned it, what would be the "right" way of taking care of the drip rail? Not sure I've seen any posts detailing that.

Thanks for any additional info.

[Supermike]

Tim and I have been discussing this via PM... he can clarify, but I believe what he is telling me is that since there is a support beam that runs across there under the roof, the only real way to deal with it is to cut it out and weld in new metal. I might be interpreting wrong, though.

I'm really curious about this Rust Bullet stuff... it could be sprayed up in there, but who knows if it really works. It has kind of an infomercial feel to it. Wish I could challenge them to put their money where their mouth is.

[Tim P.]

Tim and I have been discussing this via PM... he can clarify, but I believe what he is telling me is that since there is a support beam that runs across there under the roof, the only real way to deal with it is to cut it out and weld in new metal. I might be interpreting wrong, though.

I'm really curious about this Rust Bullet stuff... it could be sprayed up in there, but who knows if it really works. It has kind of an infomercial feel to it. Wish I could challenge them to put their money where their mouth is.

http://www.fordification.com/my67-p18.htm read this link.

[Supermike]

I really am thinking about using this Rustbullet stuff. Since you can spray it, you should be able to get up in those hard to reach spots. I can't imagine they'd be able to show comparisons like the one attached unless they had real tests and science to back it up...

69rangerman, you might consider removing your headliner and seeing what's going on under there. If there's rust, perhaps you could coat it with some of this stuff, especially if you have a way to spray it.

[Tim P.]

I really am thinking about using this Rustbullet stuff. Since you can spray it, you should be able to get up in those hard to reach spots. I can't imagine they'd be able to show comparisons like the one attached unless they had real tests and science to back it up...

69rangerman, you might consider removing your headliner and seeing what's going on under there. If there's rust, perhaps you could coat it with some of this stuff, especially if you have a way to spray it.

I do not wish to offend anybody but por15 is very old school and like I stated earlier it has some mixed reviews from folks who have used it. And being it needs to be top coated and isnt UV resistant thoses to things would turn me away from using it to begn with. Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator can be sprayed also and reduced up to 20% with lacquer thinner for spraying if nessasary. I have read the tech articles on rust bullet it seems to be in align with the Eastwoods Encapsulator also. I guess until we hear from someone that has the bullet on for a time we wont know if its up to snuff. Just as some input for the sake of experience and for others to know from first hand knowledge Im having very good luck with the Eastwoods Encapsulator IMO I will stay with the Eastwoods products until some real life proof of a better product exist. And Sorry but POR 15 isnt in the picture aint even close!!!

[Tim P.]

Hey Tim,

Thanks for the encouragement! Since you mentioned it, what would be the "right" way of taking care of the drip rail? Not sure I've seen any posts detailing that.

Thanks for any additional info.

I was going to send a photo but I need to reduce it first,,,, be back.

[Tim P.]

Hey Tim,

Thanks for the encouragement! Since you mentioned it, what would be the "right" way of taking care of the drip rail? Not sure I've seen any posts detailing that.

Thanks for any additional info.

I was going to send a photo but I need to reduce it first,,,, be back.

Ok Im going to try this again,,,
This is a truck on Drugs too many years tripping on Acid (Michigan Road Salt)

[Supermike]

Ouch... mine's not that bad... yet... as far as I can tell...